Recent content by TulioAdriano

Yeah if I were to do something like that I'd try going fancy and populating all 4 slots each with a game, so one could switch between 4 without needing to reset the system. It would look like a crazy Frankenstein, but then again which multi doesn't? (Well some of them don't, lol).

Unfortunately lifting that resistor will not work, because the signal originates on the trace leading to that leg. It was just a good spot to hook up my probe. You could, however, remove R49 near IC24 would probably achieve the same result. I myself prefer to avoid modifying the board, so the...

Alright, I finished my analysis. First a bit of tracing from the audio side: The audio gets mixed in and then pass through the TL862 opamp. From there the 74HC4066s do the magic of muting the FM and MD PSG. It seems to keep going into a transistor which I did not race further. On the left...

I'll study the board a bit and figure out if there's a way to disable it, if you don't mind modifying the board. I get the sense that it has something to do with those 4066 analog switches, because if you crank up the volume really high, you can hear that there's some volume still passing...

My tests show that the sounds are being produced by the game, but the BIOS mutes the mixing amp when there are no credits inserted. I think the best bet would to hope Shane can add that feature when he releases his BIOS. :)

Hi Deep, Mikonos makes the labels, and the shells are from AliExpress. There are many vendors for those shells though, so make sure you don't just grab the cheapest one, look for the ones better quality. I'd send you a link but it looks like the ones I bought (shell & boxes) are no longer there.

Got me curious, which ones? Can you do the dumps yourself?

Lol this is a wild idea... but it can probably be done, yeah.

I thought scanlines were inherent of all CRT based video due to how the frames are drawn on the screen, and whether they're visible (or rather, the gap between then) or not would depend on a variety of factors such as the focus capability of the Kinescope (aka CRT) and its wearing state, the...

I looked all over for these and could not find it anywhere... so I made my own: Here are the settings I changed to get the pixels as crisp as I could, starting from the generic profile: Video In Proc: Video LPF: 16 MHz Sampling Opt: Allow Upsample2x: Off (this made the video stop going in...

Been a long time dream to have a proper Model 2 Daytona USA board. Before I was finally able to bring it home, I set up my "poor man's Daytona USA" using a dedicated PC that boots straight to the game and a Logitech G29. I knew that the real thing though, would be much more complicated to get...

Yep, I'm about to order some shells and labels for myself, hit me on PM and I may be able to include what you need in the same order. About the multicart, Blio and I had a conversation a few messages above about that. Depending on the kind of solution it can be more or less involved. I...

I've tried doing that, and the game boots. However it does not accept any input from the Mega Play. I believe to make them work a ROM hack would be needed. If we're lucky, perhaps a BIOS hack could work for MD games. We miss you, @Apocalypse. If you want me to make you some cartridges, just...

It's a great start. I also found this on one of the manuals, which helps Having some of the IO work will help too. I'm thinking once I get it all figured out, I can probably create an adapter for common double analog joysticks like Xbox, PlayStation, etc. :)

I recently came across a Sega X Board (GP Rider), however it's board only. I'd like to convert that board but that's a topic for later. Right now, I just want to power on the board and verify that it is working. However I do not have a filter board, and I can't seem to find one anywhere. I'd...