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Thanks for all the replies. I ended up using that Candy White LB9A spray can to touch up the bad areas (bottom side edges, area around where I had to repair a couple of cracks and sand) and I think it came out pretty well. If you get really close and shine a light on it to inspect you can tell...

So I ended up just getting a 24" T8 LED replacement from Home Depot's website with free shipping that turned out great. https://www.homedepot.com/p/toggled-24-in-8-Watt-Daylight-5000K-T8-Linear-Tube-LED-Light-Bulb-E208-50310/205622687 It's a little bit of a tight fit, but nothing difficult and I...

I've got a few more Blast questions. 1.) My blast is missing the 2p stick and the 2p/start buttons are the wrong color (1p buttons are the correct color, but don't know if they're original parts and I haven't tested much to see if they're worn out.) I want to order the original sticks/buttons...

So is the control graphic overlay attached to the metal portion that the buttons mount to? I got my first Blast City and I'm cleaning it up. There's a decent amount of rust around the edges so I'm not sure if the overlay is normally held on with some adhesive, or if it's just stuck on with rust...

Gah, how the crap do you get the speaker enclosures out? Just got my Blast in yesterday and have been tearing it down partially to clean it and get it inside and down the stairs more easily. Shining a flashlight through the speaker grill I could see the foam is deteriorating on at least one of...

Well they refunded me without any issues once I requested it. That's good at least. Not sure what to do with the 2 leftover janky A boards now. I guess I could stick them in the closet for parts, but I have no idea which ICs are good and which are bad on them.

Before they sent the replacement, I asked if they could test it before hand and they said all of them are tested before they're sent out. :/

So since I'm having problems with 2 different boards, I feel like there's something I'm missing. Here's the full story below: So I ordered what is supposedly a NOS CPS1 A board, that is believed to be a a CPS 1.5 board with the audio section re-populated. I wanted to grab one to set aside for...

Would the Negatron be sufficient though? https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/List_of_JAMMA_PCB%27s_that_require_-5_volts "ATTENTION - The Negatron device provides -5v@500mA, which may be insufficient for some pcbs." Maybe it'd be fine for Double Dragon? Who knows what PCBs I might would...

I'll have a Blast City cab on the way soon-ish, so I figured I'd go ahead and get some of my research out of the way. So from what I can tell the Blast City PSU doesn't have -5V output (or if it does, it doesn't seem to be wired up). Is there a way to add this? I know I'd have to wire a couple...

There's also an open-source Arduino Nano based solution for loading the keys on the board at every boot without a battery https://github.com/cr4zymanz0r/No-Battery-CPS2 It's a little more involved than undamned's infinikey, but not bad for the DIY inclined.

I don't exactly have a hard budget number in mind. Part of this is me getting a good feel for the prices too since I only have very vague ideas of what to expect. I guess ideally I don't want to go over $1500, but if price discovery during this happens to show that's not feasible for what I want...

(FYI, if you need feedback for me you can check over on the klov forums. Same username) I'm wanting to buy a candy cab, or maybe 2 depending on price/luck. What kind of candy cab? I'm mostly looking to play 15khz JAMMA PCBs, so New Astro City cab or a Egret 2 cab might be the ideal choices. A...

Does this require any modification to the game PCB other than soldering on the CPS1 infinikey (as in no trace cutting/etc.)? I didn't think it was possible to write a key to the C board while it was attached and unmodified.

1 for me

I didn't realize there was actually a dedicated thread for this. I'd like to get in line too. What I'm hoping for is there to be a method or adapter to use DB15 based controllers/sticks with this and not just being limited to PS3/4/Xbox/whatever USB controllers/sticks....or just put Saturn...

Sorry, I guess I should've been more specific. I was referring to the thread topic of converting CPS1.5 games (or regular CPS1 games) to run on the CPS2 multikit. I do some modern programming, but I've never really done much software hacking on old game hardware. I think it'd be interesting to...

So does anybody have a guide for how to get started on conversions? It might be above my head, but it'd be interesting to dig into some of these, but I just don't really know where to start.