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If anyone runs into this problem in the future, I managed to fix it. I got the cap kit from console5 which was like 98% correct. There are supposed to be 3x 470uF caps and on mine they were replaced with 220 uF. I tried to put the 470uF caps in their place and they were physically too big to put...

I haven't turned my Naomi on in a while and when I did I got no sound. I found that if I turned it (Capcom IO) up to about max, I can barely hear the game playing. I ruled out the amp because my CPS2 outputs nice and clear when hooked up to it. I connected a regular audio source on the input...

Small update and got side tracked. I picked up another dead board with RF2 and with this one, the processor and the large custom next to it had half their pins lifted from the board. I reflowed all of them and got it working. The RF2 was also working properly. I tried my RF1 on the working board...

Seems I was a little premature. I can't get it to reliably boot up to that screen. Sometimes it stays on the garbage screen. I tried with the JP and US roms, but it's the same. I also tried the revive ROMs, but I was never able to get the menu to come up. I even tried it on MAME and it didn't...

After reflowing the solder to the cartridge connector pins on the mainboard again, I'm finally able to get it booting. I'm much more optimistic about this board now. Now I have to do the SPI revive and hopefully will be back in business.

Well, I'm making progress. I reflowed the solder to the QFPs and the mainboard connectors to the cartridge. Now I have some garbage that sometimes has sync issues. I still have the behavior where the Z80 reset line is stuck low when I have the cartridge installed. Removing the Z80 doesn't change...

I was able to check most of them because they sit along the edges and my microscope can reach them. There's a big fat one in the center that my microscope can't reach so I might just reflow it anyways. Once I get the board working then I will definitely turn my attention to those graphics ROMs...

So jepjepjep was able to confirm that my cart is working properly (albeit with some graphical glitches) and now I can focus on the mainboard. Huge thanks to him for doing that! Still not quite sure where to go though, guess I can verify the cart connector on the main board has no wiggly pins. I...

Bringing this back up to see if anyone has any ideas. I probed the Z80 without the ROM board connected and the clock stays low while the reset starts low and then goes to high. After I put the ROM board on (after powering it off), the clock comes to life but the reset pin stays low. For the life...

After doing a bit more research it looks like the CPU will run at half the clock speed, so it sounds like that's a non-issue.

I also forgot to mention that I tried pressing on the customs and flexing the board in various places, but nothing changed.

Bringing this topic back up again cause I'm able to work on it again. I don't believe I had a good desoldering tool the previous time, but now I do. I swapped the Z80 with a known good one and the issue persists, no boot (just some lines on the screen), but the coin counter isn't going crazy...

I have the same board as pictured. I found a picture of the smaller board, but mine is definitely the V2.0 larger board. As I understand it, the single board version has the 40mhz chip with 40mhz crystal. I have a 40mhz chip and a 50mhz crystal. The other thing I noticed is that when connected...

The weird part to me was the 40mhz processor when all the documentation points to a 25mhz processor. I didn't know if this was some weird hybrid or just a regional difference.

I picked up a dead Raiden Fighters a while back and I'm working my way through it. Right now it gets power but aside from some occasional interference on the screen, it doesn't do anything. A couple odd things I noticed, the cart was decased and it had some official looking label that is Korean...

After reading some other Konami repair logs, another issue is not that the chip is bad, but it simply can't be contacted. Use your logic probe on all the pins of the "bad" chip and see if there is activity. See if you can trace all the pins and verify they go somewhere.

I went ahead and erased the existing EPROMS and then wrote the MAME roms to them. And...it's fixed! Thanks for the suggestion to get an eprom reader, now I have a new tool in my toolbox!

Just a follow-up to this. I finally got an EEPROM programmer and read out the socketed chips. Then I compared them to the mame roms. Looks like the two audio cpus and one of the other main cpus are not quite identical to the mame roms. Should I try erasing and reprogramming the current ROMs or...

I'll tell you how I do it. If you die or lose an arm, it's not my fault. Obviously make sure the machine is powered off. Then I take a long piece of thick gauge wire (think house wiring or electrical cord) and strip both ends maybe an inch or 2. I wrap one end around the metal part of the...

You'll want something to use for desoldering (gun, pump, braid). I used a radioshack desoldering tool with squeeze bulb for a long time and then traded it out for a pushbutton desoldering pump (same price but a bit better). You'll then need something to solder with. The radioshack pencil...