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Acrylic cases and boxes for my PCBS and multis ideas and suggestions

Looking great, thanks! @jassin000, the TMNT should have 6 standoffs, our apologies.
We can ship you the missing standoffs, washers and screws by envelope.
Or if not in a hurry, we can have it shipped with a future order.
Just send us an e-mail (reply to your order confirmation) and it will be fixed!
 
HighFlow said:
Or if not in a hurry, we can have it shipped with a future order.
Just send us an e-mail (reply to your order confirmation) and it will be fixed!
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Oh thanks that would be awesome!
Yea lets wait for a future order because I've totally got my eye on more cases.

Once I can confirm the @Darksoft CPS1 multi is compatible with the current CPS1 case I'm going to order it.
Likewise with the @Apocalypse System16 multi.
Because both of these multi's will use redesigned B-boards the footprint could be very different from a real B-board and not fit.

Also I think @archimage is trying to scoop up a Bubble Bobble and JNX Taito SC adapter?
If he gets one we NEED that case designed! :D
 
trying some stickers

bznTC8Y.jpg
 
they can be probably better, but been into the cheap route, I print them on adhesive photo paper with high quality then I put a protection layer. Didn't bother for the outline, did it with eyeballing with a pair of scissors, I think it looks good enough to me
 
I had a similar idea only I wanted to use the large surface area for the original arcade flyer.
Two major problems with this...
  1. Not all games have hi res (600+ DPI) scans available (print quality is an issue)
  2. The best way to attach the print/flyer to the case is by having another (only thinner) top panel made, and placing it between the two layers (adds a significant expense).
 
significantly more expensive yes, if scan quality is an issue best thing is to vectorize it
 
I'm thinking it looks ok the final render is better when the outline is thinner, and letters detached and reassembled, should be perfect if industrially cut out, but very expensive though I couln't find any service doing that for individual pieces, hence the scissors and home printing
 
Does anyone by chance know somewhere in the US these cab be sources? I would like to get one for my Sega ST-V Darksoft multi without paying in taxes and shipping as what the actual case costs.
 
I'd love to see multi for konami, namco and midway, that would be the best thing for my wallet
 
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Midway and Konami both have the same problem, custom chips that aren't populated in all games, even games appearing on the same PCB/system.
So that will prob never happen. :(
 
I plan to get a case for all of my PCBs. Almost there for what I have on hand but I'm sure my collection will continue to grow and I'll need to get more of these in the future. Makes everything look really nice and also adds a bit of protection on these boards.

jassin000 said:
Damn @BroadwayJose that looks awesome, love the CPS2 style kicks adapter too. :thumbup:
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Good eye on the adapter. JNX does great work. I have one for CPS1 also but I'm not sure how the adapter will work with the acrylic case design when the CPS1 multi comes out.
 
BroadwayJose said:
but I'm not sure how the adapter will work with the acrylic case design when the CPS1 multi comes out.
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Same, I told @HighFlow I was waiting for the final design of the CPS1 multi to be made public.

I suspect the top panel will need additional cutouts to access the LCD selector screen and harness connectors.
Standoffs will definitely be shorter, as no C-Board will be stacked up.

As for the kicks adapter, you won't need it PERIOD...

DS/AP stated (just a few days ago now) the multi will only require a A-Board, no B or C will be needed at all!
As you know kick harnesses/multiplayer harnesses get connected to the C-board, so how will the multi work?
The multi will be just a redesigned B-board, that will have the C function integrated, a microSD slot for updating/loading ROMs, a LCD screen for ROM selection and a CPS2 style kicks (even including a analog connector for Forgotten Worlds spinners) on the (B) PCB itself.
 
Question, does the extended edge on the HighFlow cases get in the way when directly attaching a Supergun on a PCB, such as the HAS or Sentinel? I see the edge of the Acrylic extending past the JAMMA edge on the PCBs, and I'm worried there isn't enough clearing for the feet/bottom plexi of something like the HAS/Sentinel. Would they attach fine or would you need to use a JAMMA extension?

I'm specifically curious about the ST-V Acrylic if that makes a difference.
 
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