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Several years ago I bought a Makvision 25" tri sync flatscreen CRT monitor to make an arcade cabinet. With the help of a welder I knew, I designed a lightweight cabinet out of aluminum and he fabricated it. After the fabrication and welding was done, there was still a lot of work to do, and I'm still far from finished with the project. Right now I'm working on redoing the wiring, then I will work on cutting / mounting diamond plate aluminum panels to cover the rest of the exterior.

While originally wired with a standard JAMMA harness, I decided to make a dedicated PCB that will accommodate all the features I want the cabinet to have. This PCB has connectors for power, A/V, controllers, kick harness, coin door so all components can be easily disconnected. By using Neo Geo controller ports, there is only 2 cables going to the control panel instead of 24 individual wires. The control panel will have a breakout board for the controller cables mounted to it so it can be easily removed.

The PCB I made is a lot like a supergun, actually. The biggest difference is the RGB video is a straight pass through to a VGA connector without any video conversion or buffering. It has a voltmeter with selectable 5v or 12v measurement, LEDs indicators for the 3 voltages, stereo / mono sound switch with speaker to line out converter circuit, connector for kick harness, switches for JAMMA button 4-6 connection, and coin door buttons and connector.

I do have about 12 of these PCBs left if anyone has a similar arcade setup and thinks this would be useful.

I'm using an automotive style 20W stereo amplifier with it's own 12 power supply connected to a pair of 2 way 4x6 speakers. That's why I needed the speaker level to line level converter. I like having an easy to access volume knob rather than adjusting the potentiometer on the JAMMA arcade game board.
 

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Nice! Not too many custom jobs on this forum. This looks like it can take a beating. What bike is that in your profile picture?
 
The bike in my profile pic is a 2003 Yamaha R1.

I wired up the control panel with DB15 connectors using the breakout PCB I made. Another bonus to wiring the arcade cabinet controls this way is it's easier to connect and play RGB capable game consoles and connect a controller adapter. I currently have a controller to arcade adapter for the NES I will use to connect it to the arcade cabinet.

Having a stereo amplifier and speakers in the cabinet allows connecting a RGB capable game console's audio.

Next I will wire up the "coin door" which is just 4 lighted push buttons to insert coins and for test / service.

I already have the AC power inputs and two power supplies wired. There's two AC switches, one for the monitor and the other is for the Happ arcade power supply and the additional 5A 12v power supply.
 

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