- Thread starter dewmansnk
- Start date
J
jassin000
@kikaso thanks!
These fans (inside the PSU) make some noise huh?
I ran both of my machines for a solid 6 hours yesterday (burn-in/multimeter stability re-test) and I could here them fairly well.
I believe these are 40x40x10mm 12v fans (even if they are NOT, I'll ADAPT the case hehe)...
So I ordered a pair of these Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fans to really mod 'em out pro.
OSH Park says the V5 (with thicker copper option) PCBs are on the way, looking forward to pop'n 'em in as well.
These fans (inside the PSU) make some noise huh?
I ran both of my machines for a solid 6 hours yesterday (burn-in/multimeter stability re-test) and I could here them fairly well.
I believe these are 40x40x10mm 12v fans (even if they are NOT, I'll ADAPT the case hehe)...
So I ordered a pair of these Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fans to really mod 'em out pro.
OSH Park says the V5 (with thicker copper option) PCBs are on the way, looking forward to pop'n 'em in as well.
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Really interested to see how the fans end up working out for you. The stock PSU fans are definitely audible especially in my setup where it is outside of a cabinet.@kikaso thanks!
These fans (inside the PSU) make some noise huh?
I ran both of my machines for a solid 6 hours yesterday (burn-in/multimeter stability re-test) and I could here them fairly well.
I believe these are 40x40x10mm 12v fans (even if they are NOT, I'll ADAPT the case hehe)...
So I ordered a pair of these Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fans to really mod 'em out pro.
OSH Park says the V5 (with thicker copper option) PCBs are on the way, looking forward to pop'n 'em in as well.
J
jassin000
Doh! They were 60mm's (60x60x10mm 12v).
Returned the 40mm's at Whole Foods (Amazon) and ordered up some more.
*Update*
It seems Noctua only makes a 60x60x25mm in 12v.
I ordered it anyway, and some 60mm fan grills...
Reason being I'm going to try back-mounting/externally mounting the fan onto the case.
With a depth of more then 2.5x the original, I'm afraid it will push too far into the case/internals.
*Update 2*
I've been experiencing some video noise on my L-AMI.
I believe this is due to some type of earth ground feed back, as disconnecting the earth ground solves the problem.
I would assume its not happing on the Capcom because of the wooden/non-conductive plate the PSU sits on?
Until I can mount the PSU on plastic feet (or I guess a wooden platform) I'm running without earth ground connected.
I suppose its important to note, even with the original Wei Ya PSU, NO earth ground is connected (yes even in the Capcom).
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J
jassin000
Fans arrived, did a little more cutting on the case to removed the internal/lame-airflow restricting grill.
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J
jassin000
Send @dewmansnk a message (PM) asking if he has any for sale.
Awesome work @dewmansnk thanks for sharing it with us 
So its recommended to get these in 1.6 or 2mm thick PCBs? and then use 2oz or higher on the copper correct, since the 1oz wont be able to handle the amps the psu can provide.
So its recommended to get these in 1.6 or 2mm thick PCBs? and then use 2oz or higher on the copper correct, since the 1oz wont be able to handle the amps the psu can provide.
J
jassin000
The version 5 PCB from OSH Park I felt was perfect with thinner board and thicker copper, slides right into place in the screw terminal of the Mean Well (the thicker version 4 fit tight).
I would recommend holding the PCB steady when plugging/unplugging however.
Wouldn't want to crack it/break the fingers off.
I would recommend holding the PCB steady when plugging/unplugging however.
Wouldn't want to crack it/break the fingers off.
I did the calculations and 1oz is plenty to handle the current requirements. The 3.8mm traces should be able to handle just about 6 amps each. Those traces are on both sides of the PCB, so each finger is roughly 12 Amps. The 5v rail has 2 fingers so should be ~24 amps through that bit of copper w/ 10C rise. The 4.6mm 3.3V finger should be right around 7 amps each side, so about 14 amps total w/10C rise. Also, given the traces are so dang short you pry can push that even more. I made sure I didn't use any thermal relief on the vias to get as much copper to the Molex connectors as possible. The PCBs are also ENIG finish since the fingers tend to tarnish with such large exposed metal pads, so that should help bring down any parasitic resistance.
Ref
https://rushpcb.com/relationship-between-copper-weight-and-current-carrying-capacity/
Ref
https://rushpcb.com/relationship-between-copper-weight-and-current-carrying-capacity/
This is where the plastic nuts on the back of the voltage PCB are nice, you can hold a thumb on the interface PCB and support it while disconnecting the Molex. Insertion is no biggie as the nylon nuts support the top of the board.
J
jassin000
This is the JVS power supply to have IMO (MW+dewmansnk).
Really the only way it could be any better would be independent voltage control pots on the PSU (I was able to find acceptable values, it just lacks perfection/fine tuning).
I see folks struggling with ATX PSUs, and suffered not long ago myself with the Wei Ya's very specific input/Japan voltage.
I've been recommending it for VLX machines, but really anyone looking for a PSU that meets ALL the home operators needs...
Oh and @Derick2k ... We need a mounting bracket for this, something that mimics the footprint/hole-pattern from the Wei Ya.
Also, now that I'm really thinking about it... the mount should be plexi or some other non-conductive material.
For owners of DIA or L-AMI who lack the non-conductive wooden base plate (ie cab body is earth ground).
Really the only way it could be any better would be independent voltage control pots on the PSU (I was able to find acceptable values, it just lacks perfection/fine tuning).
I see folks struggling with ATX PSUs, and suffered not long ago myself with the Wei Ya's very specific input/Japan voltage.
I've been recommending it for VLX machines, but really anyone looking for a PSU that meets ALL the home operators needs...
- 3.3v
- 5v
- 12v
- -5v
Oh and @Derick2k ... We need a mounting bracket for this, something that mimics the footprint/hole-pattern from the Wei Ya.
Also, now that I'm really thinking about it... the mount should be plexi or some other non-conductive material.
For owners of DIA or L-AMI who lack the non-conductive wooden base plate (ie cab body is earth ground).
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Yup, for me its this or the Sanwa JVS, but that one is like $200+ going forward.
I ordered this mean-well to try out, waiting for it to get here. I will be ordering dewmansnk's adapter PCB for sure.
The ATX supplies most likely can be adjusted but that involves too much research and would have to be per ATX supply model.
I ordered this mean-well to try out, waiting for it to get here. I will be ordering dewmansnk's adapter PCB for sure.
The ATX supplies most likely can be adjusted but that involves too much research and would have to be per ATX supply model.
This is such a cool project, I can wait to put it together,
If someone has time, can you measure these spaces for me?
Preferably in mm with a digital caliper, if possible
Im either going to laser cut or 3d print a mounting bracket for these
I want to make it as flush as possible to the sides, not sure if the screw or tabs will get in the way at the top
I also dont want ti to go beyond the top of the case, so something like this more or less
If someone has time, can you measure these spaces for me?
Preferably in mm with a digital caliper, if possible
Im either going to laser cut or 3d print a mounting bracket for these
I want to make it as flush as possible to the sides, not sure if the screw or tabs will get in the way at the top
I also dont want ti to go beyond the top of the case, so something like this more or less
can I get a cheap version with voltage status? I wanna put it into my tmnt that was restored
