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Blast City General Questions

It'd be good to recap the PSU and sound amp just as good practice when you get a new cab. Check the fan and replace it if it's seized too. It's nice to do that and then feel pretty confident that you don't have to mess around with it much in the future.

I've created a DigiKey share cart for both: https://www.digikey.com/short/z51q4r
 
slevin said:
Mrhide said:
I am running a naomi netdimm setup directly on my (recapped) Blast power supply. You do NOT need another one.
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nnap said:
Same here, recapped PSU, JVS/Jamma harness and capcom i/o for controls.
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Hatsune Mike said:
NetDimm was totally fine on my Blast PSU.
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djsheep said:
Chiming in to say I also run a NetDIMM setup in my Blast with no power issues.
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well shit, if I can avoid having more real estate taken up inside the blast city maybe I'll just recap the PSU too.
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Double well shit. I need to go recap my PSU then. Then I'll have a spare sun PSU floating around. Also great excuse to go buy a desoldering gun.
 
Recapping the psu and sound amp is always worth it. On my blast I noticed an immediate improvement in video quality just because the game boards are running on cleaner power.
 
Based on the Specs on the Blast PSU it should handle Net DIMM fine,

invzim measured the draw on the NAOMI to be 4.3A on the 3.3V line: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/PCB_Power_Consumption

The Blast City PSU is rated for 12A on the 3.3V line.

Assuming the PSU has good caps and the 3.3V voltage line is adjusted properly* there shouldn't be any issues running a Net DIMM setup on the Blast's PSU.

one of these days I'm going to make a guide on how to properly adjust the 3.3V line on a NAOMI... I'm convinced most people don't do it right.
 
1. make sure the contacts on the connectors that connect the Mobo to the DIMM board are clean and straight

2. use appropriate screws to hold the DIMM board snug and in place.

3. open the metal cover on the DIMM board. put your multimeter on a ground and 3.3V contact point inside the DIMM board and adjust until that point reads 3.3V


the problem is that most people skip steps 1 and 2 and then measure from the power connector, or worse: at the PSU but especially on the 3.3V line that voltage can see a significant drop before it gets to the DIMM board where it actually matters.
 
twistedsymphony said:
1. make sure the contacts on the connectors that connect the Mobo to the DIMM board are clean and straight

2. use appropriate screws to hold the DIMM board snug and in place.

3. open the metal cover on the DIMM board. put your multimeter on a ground and 3.3V contact point inside the DIMM board and adjust until that point reads 3.3V


the problem is that most people skip steps 1 and 2 and then measure from the power connector, or worse: at the PSU but especially on the 3.3V line that voltage can see a significant drop before it gets to the DIMM board where it actually matters.
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Thank you, this is perfect!
 
Hatsune Mike said:
A recap is something done in the name of maintenance, and usually benefits geometry, image stability, and color, all of which contribute to overall picture quality. If your tube is dim or the focus is poor, I can almost guarantee you that the recap is not going to fix it.
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I get the feeling you've worked on a decent number of Nanao chassis... at least more than my current total of 0. Wondering if you could put my mind at ease...

I've read a handful of posts from people who've claimed that they had a working MS-2931 that they recapped, which then _stopped_ working after recap. To me... that sounds like a problem with their technique, e.g. they lifted a pad destroyed a trace, flipped polarity etc. However, it still has me a bit concerned to recap the chassis on the Blast I just received.

Do you ever have any reservations about recapping these 2931 chassis? I have plenty of experience doing recaps on consoles and computers. I have quality tools. Should I be concerned at all, given that I am very detail oriented, careful, and triple-check my work both as I'm going and once the job is done? Is my anxiety just misplaced?
 
I've recapped a fair few 2930/1 and I have never had one stop working after recapping.

Actually, I'm pretty sure I've never had anything stop working after recapping. I've read stories of components (regulators, transistors) going out after recapping but that has never happened to me.
 
ebzero89 said:
slevin said:
Mrhide said:
I am running a naomi netdimm setup directly on my (recapped) Blast power supply. You do NOT need another one.
Click to expand...
nnap said:
Same here, recapped PSU, JVS/Jamma harness and capcom i/o for controls.
Click to expand...
Hatsune Mike said:
NetDimm was totally fine on my Blast PSU.
Click to expand...
djsheep said:
Chiming in to say I also run a NetDIMM setup in my Blast with no power issues.
Click to expand...
well shit, if I can avoid having more real estate taken up inside the blast city maybe I'll just recap the PSU too.
Click to expand...
Double well shit. I need to go recap my PSU then. Then I'll have a spare sun PSU floating around. Also great excuse to go buy a desoldering gun.
Click to expand...
I love my Hakko FR-301.

It changed my fear of soldering.

Don’t crank the heat up too high like I did or you will suck a solder pad right off the pcb.
 
Also have an FR-301 over here. And you're right, always start on the lowest heat setting and only turn it up if you hit a big thermal mass. Regular maintenance and following the guidelines for cleaning will help avoid clogs.
 
recapped my blast psu last night thanks to the sweet link from @Hatsune Mike - not wanting to hijack the thread but I found something interesting ...*drumroll*
FB_IMG_1597508200482.jpg
You guys ever run across this before ?? It looks like it's from the factory. All caps were original.
 
just a quick question, didn't want to start another thread to get the answer.

my blast city has a nanao monitor inside and I'm running a naomi netdimm setup.

What sync rate should I be running the monitor on? 31kh?

Also, should I be plugging in my Naomi directly to the monitor via VGA? I currently have it plugged into my Sega IO. Is resolution affected?
 
As long as dip 1 is off on the Naomi you'll get 31k. Resolution isn't affected by the IO, I run my Naomi video through the IO myself.
 
I've noticed a circular cutout under the move list on the CP for the Blast City, was there a light installed in these at some point ? or has anyone done a retrofit before?

I replaced my top Marquee light bulb with a LED version bypassing the starter as well, using Seiseisei's MVC2 top marquee. The light works will for the lower 'Blast City" text but doesn't penetrate at all on the top banner, thinking I might try and pigging back another LED bulb up to the top section to light it up better.
 
slevin said:
I've noticed a circular cutout under the move list on the CP for the Blast City, was there a light installed in these at some point ? or has anyone done a retrofit before?
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I don't believe Blasts ever had illuminated move strips. I don't know what intention of the circle cut out is, but I use it to straighten out the move strips after install.
 
BlinG said:
slevin said:
I've noticed a circular cutout under the move list on the CP for the Blast City, was there a light installed in these at some point ? or has anyone done a retrofit before?
Click to expand...
I don't believe Blasts ever had illuminated move strips. I don't know what intention of the circle cut out is, but I use it to straighten out the move strips after install.
Click to expand...
got it! after I got the blast running with older games my patrons seem way more excited to play it then the vewlix with sf4.... lol
 
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