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Got mine today! How are you supposed to use the plastic feet and the standoffs that were included in a separate pack?
 
Got mine today! How are you supposed to use the plastic feet and the standoffs that were included in a separate pack?

Attach them to the board as shown in these pictures. Then you can mount your JAMMAizer inside your cabinet using the feet and you can securely mount your controller PCBs to the JAMMAizer using the brass standoffs.
 

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Attach them to the board as shown in these pictures. Then you can mount your JAMMAizer inside your cabinet using the feet and you can securely mount your controller PCBs to the JAMMAizer using the brass standoffs.
thank you
 
It’s just a standard 20-pin header - if you search google, I believe the info is in the manual?
 
Anyone tell me what audio cable to use with the mister and the jammaizer vga hat?
 
Anyone tell me what audio cable to use with the mister and the jammaizer vga hat?
Not waiting for the Mistercade? It sounds like Porkchop Express may be close to a public release in the next few months. Personally, I'm gonna swap between jammaizer and MC.
 
Not waiting for the Mistercade? It sounds like Porkchop Express may be close to a public release in the next few months. Personally, I'm gonna swap between jammaizer and MC.
Nah I wanted the ability to use my consoles (ps, dc, Xbox) as well
 
Hey guys, I wanted to tell a short story and make an announcement about future JAMMAizer production.

This past week I finally decided to dig into the library of Atomiswave to Dreamcast conversions using my personal Console JAMMAizer with in my New Net City. I had a blast playing through Dolphin Blue and decided to try out Metal Slug 6. Frustratingly the default button map for those two games do not match one another despite being designed for the same hardware and converted by the same person. The fact that I had to reprogram my controls for both players every time I switched games really started to get on my nerves, so I decided to open up my R.M.A.F. firmware and port it over to the ATMEGA16 that the original button remapping code written by RGB used. Porting the R.M.A.F. firmware allowed me to add support for 6 independent switchable profiles per player and I was able to implement the vertical sync locked autofire capability that RGB's original remapping had which the R.M.A.F. does not have.

I have been testing it out for a few days and I have to say, it is a huge quality of life improvement. I have decided that all future JAMMAizers will now ship with this new remapping chip, and that the original remapping chip the RGB designed will be retired.

The new chip functions exactly the same as the old one, so all of the user interfacing will be exactly the same except for the new profile selection mode.

Instructions on profile selection:
In order to select a profile you must hold one of the following button combinations for 3 seconds.
  • Profile #1 = Start + B1 + B2 + B3
  • Profile #2 = Start + B2 + B3 + B4
  • Profile #3 = Start + B3 + B4 + B5
  • Profile #4 = Start + B4 + B5 + B6
  • Profile #5 = Start + B5 + B6 + B1
  • Profile #6 = Start + B6 + B1 + B2
Each player can select a profile independently and each profile can be programmed independently for each player. Once you are in a profile you can edit the remapping and auto fire settings just like you normally would, and they will be retained in that profile.

People who have the existing Console JAMMAizer with remapping chip.
If you already have a Console JAMMAizer with the original remapping chip you have the option to flash the new firmware onto your existing chip.

Update Instructions:

In order to update your Console JAMMAizer's remapping chip you need a couple of tools.
  1. A USBASP AVR programmer such as this one.
  2. AVRDUDE or for a more convenient GUI AVRDUDESS.
  3. Dupont wires to connect the USBASP to the pins of the ATMEGA16 such as these.
  4. The new firmware HEX from my Github repository.
Everyone should have an ATMEGA16, but check your chip to make sure. There is also a HEX for ATMEGA164 chips which may be used as well.

Solder your dupont wires to the legs of the ATMEGA16 and connect them to the USBASP according to the following images
IMG_20210215_153613.jpg


L_hki4AHdyIpTr-DvUHggR1UaYwUh4oZlwZpr5Zh3tTqsENDcc.gif


Plug your Console JAMMAizer into a power source, either an arcade cabinet or a Supergun and power it on, then plug your USBASP into your computer.

DO NOT PLUG YOUR USBASP INTO A COMPUTER WITH THE CONSOLE JAMMAIZER POWERED OFF. THE JAMMAIZER'S PSU LOAD RESISTOR COULD POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR USB PORT IF YOU PLUG IT IN UNPOWERED.

Using AVRDUDESS load up your HEX file, select your programmer, and set your fuses.
Console JAMMAizer Reprogram.jpg

For your fuses you want to set the Low Byte to 0xC4 and the High Byte to 0xD5

Hit program and watch the magic happen. Once the chip is done programming and verifies, you are fully updated and you can now disconnect your USBASP and the programming wires and use your JAMMAizer as normal.

If anyone has any questions, please let me know, I probably have an answer!
 
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Seen some discussion here about MiSTer and the Jammaizer. I have a MiSTer kit in route to me with the analog hat. I intend to mainly use it on a CRT TV or VGA monitor but I'd like to also make it work on a 15khz Astro City monitor if possible. Has anyone tried this yet? I have the VGA style hat installed on the Jammaizer, hoping this will be a simple plug and play situation for the video through that port.
 
@opt2not that's perfect! Hopefully there were no hiccups in setting this up on your end? I think the only difference from my end is I am using Brook Retro Board as the control interface with the Jammaizer.
 
@BroadwayJose no hiccups at all. Basically plug-n-play. All I had to do was configure the controls in the MiSTer settings. Though, I haven’t tried to do 2-players , but a 1-player setup was straightforward.
Image and sound was on-point as you can see.
 
I've been focused on the MiSTercade as a separate entity - didn't cross my mind to use a standard mister with the JAMMAizer. Sweet.
 
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