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Console JAMMAizer! Easily connect home consoles to your JAMMA arcade cabinet.

If I want to use this with a PS2, what am I looking for exactly to interface the controls from the console?
 
JohnRambo'sKnife said:
If I want to use this with a PS2, what am I looking for exactly to interface the controls from the console?
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Aside from the MC Cthulhu which I think is long out of production, the Brook Retro Board is what I used to recommend, but I don't think they make it anymore. Brook makes the Ultimate + Retro board but it's crazy expensive. The Brook Zero Pi supports PS1 and PS2, but you have to solder a controller cable to it because they don't include a header for the PS1/2 controller connection as far as I have seen. There may be other options these days but I am not aware of them.
 
Arthrimus said:
Hey guys, it's been a while, but I had another small batch of Console JAMMAizer V2s made. They're available to purchase on my website.

There are a couple of changes to this batch to help offset tariff costs. I found a good and more affordable cement resistor that fits in the same footprint as the old TO220 load resistor so it no longer needs a heatsink, I also no longer include a knob on the volume potentiometer. These cuts helped to offset tariffs on the PCBs and allowed me to keep pricing the same as before.
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The Pre Orders are out of stock. Just curious what your plan is after this next small batch?
 
I see you got the NES working a long time ago already, really struggling with mine, I hear sound and it responds to my controller start or select but no picture what so ever.
Which version NES did you use and which connecter did you use to hook this up?
Been dying for some duck hunt, mario, metroid and the whole other stack of games but have been crying at only just having sound 🫣😭
djsheep said:
I did note some weird compatibility issues between the two controller boards I used. So switched between them. Mainly issues with PlayStation and multiple players. The older consoles generally worked a treat.

Worth trying some other controller boards if you have ability to. I didn’t use a Brooks but they seem to have a good reputation as stable.

I did have some badly crimped cables. One that fried my SNES and another that did weird shit to my NES. So make sure your cables are ok. I ended up crimping my own because the ones I had made could not be trusted even though they were from one of the most reputable cable guys.

I love the device for what it does. And the creator said he isn’t making any more most likely due to tariffs. Give it another whirl and see how you go, it’s magic to plug an old console into a cab. If you do end up selling it, I’d be interested in another.
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Rood said:
I see you got the NES working a long time ago already, really struggling with mine, I hear sound and it responds to my controller start or select but no picture what so ever.
Which version NES did you use and which connecter did you use to hook this up?
Been dying for some duck hunt, mario, metroid and the whole other stack of games but have been crying at only just having sound 🫣😭
Click to expand...
Have no idea honestly. It was so long ago that I used this device.
 
I'm going to need a solution for consoles on a jamma cab soon. Is this still the best option? Looks like it's hard to find the needed controller boards. Is there a newer option that could be implemented maybe?
 
Just a note - the latest brook retro boards do not fit the v2 directly as there are two physical issues:
1. The pin header inputs are too short due to the RJ45 connector shielding being taller.
2. The auxiliary connectors on the brook retro interfere with the R20-10R component. This is a tall white component on my board but I see different components populated here per screenshots.
 
@JohnRambo'sKnife So it’s not worth it to purchase Brook Retro Board now and try to use it with Jammaizer? I have Console Jammaizer v2 but I have never used it. I was planning to do so but wasn’t sure which add-on board to get. What options do I have at the moment?
 
You can use it but you need header extensions and to unsolder some of the smaller connections that aren't used to avoid physical inference between the two boards.
 
JohnRambo'sKnife said:
Just a note - the latest brook retro boards do not fit the v2 directly as there are two physical issues:
1. The pin header inputs are too short due to the RJ45 connector shielding being taller.
2. The auxiliary connectors on the brook retro interfere with the R20-10R component. This is a tall white component on my board but I see different components populated here per screenshots.
Click to expand...
How bad is the RJ45 height issue? Got any pictures?
 
Here you go. Retro boards are from Arcade Shocks latest (and probably final) batch shipped in June 2026. The Jammaizer is V2.
 

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Not sure where you got your Retro Boards, but I picked mine up from Arcade Shock recently and the RJ45 ports are not as tall as yours.
IMG_3258.jpeg

IMG_3257.jpeg

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What’s that white thing? On my version I have a black heatsink and it does fit next to the JST port for the Turbo Buttons, though a bit snug.
IMG_3260.jpeg

That port is only for hooking up Turbo Buttons/LED indicator. I don't know if you’re using those inside a cabinet. But, maybe?
I’m actually going to be removing that port since it’s useless to me and I don’t want the plastic to melt from the heatsink.
 
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JohnRambo'sKnife said:
Here you go. Retro boards are from Arcade Shocks latest (and probably final) batch shipped in June 2026. The Jammaizer is V2.
Click to expand...
You don't have the standoffs installed on your JAMMAizer. Could you install them and take new pics? I suspect that with the standoffs the RJ45s will not be too tall. With the standoffs installed the pin header doesn't seat all the way flush with the socket, which was the intended design.

opt2not said:
v1
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V1 JAMMAizers had much taller sockets and standoffs for the 20 pin connector because of how thick the DIP package for the ATMEGA was, when I switched to a QFP chip they didn't need to be as tall.
 
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