yes, for ROM boards other than 171-7919A type binary parting will be slightly different, according to table in MAME sources I've posted earlier.so this conversion can be any donor cart?
Oh, i thought there was needed to allocate the test! Because when i tried to make test i got nothing on screen.I don't think you are understand what you are actually doing. there is no need to edit any headers in this case, especially when you have no idea that's in thereI'm making some trial and error with Dolphin Blue right now. I have successfully created the header with an hex editor but i have to reallocate the code for the test mode (just like ikaruga do).
basically to convert ANY GD game decrypted binary to cartridge roms you have to:
- split big game BIN into 8MB chunks and name them IC0.BIN, IC1.BIN, IC2.BIN and so on
- split IC0.BIN into 4MB chunks and name them IC22.BIN and Leftover.BIN
- check if Leftover.BIN empty / constant filled, (*) if its not - there will be needed advanced game modification, and this is above of your skills.
- program IC22, IC1, IC2 etc to ROM ICs and solder them to respective ROM board locations.
that's all.
yes, it is that simple (but require some number of boring soldering work).
here is nothing new, this process is known for many many years.
(*) as for Dolphin Blue case - Leftover.BIN will be not "empty", but you can ignore it, there is just garbage unused data.
also IC1 will be empty zero filled (same as in all AW conversions), so you can skip and ignore IC1 programming. IC12 - IC15 also not used and contain just garbage (btw, @Darksoft why there was added 32MB of trash ?)
here is cut in parts DolphinBlue roms for example - https://www.sendspace.com/file/zc4v72
yes, just leave ic1 emptyAbout Dolphin Blue, if i can ignore IC1, do i have to allocate IC2 on the second spot and leave IC1 empty? Or do i have to begin from IC1 (putting the IC2 burned rom)?
Ic1=EmptyIc2=Ic2
I'm still not 100% clear on the purpose of the diodes and resistors. It was mentioned that the purpose was to drop down the voltage. is this just because of the model of the ICs that were replaced were different than the original ones, or is there another reason?just cut game bin in parts, burn to some 8MB (or 16MB, depending on ROM board type) flash ROMs, solder them and you good to go.
thank you for that excellent explanation! though I do still have a couple of questionthere are no memories easily available that have the same pinout and also work with 5V, the second best option is to use memories that have the same pinout but work at 3V. For that reason you need to lower the voltage that those flash memories get from 5v to 3v.
If it's AMB work, it's lifting all of the 3v pins on the chip, then daisy-chain them together with resistors off of a 5v source. I've got a handful of those on the shelf.1. how are they isolating 5V on the new chip? are they cutting traces or lifting pins, or something else?
@rewrite already answered on the 1st one. On the 2nd, I havent checked but I guess that those 3.3 are not available at the cartridge connector or maybe they dont have enough power (Amps) to feed all the cart memories or maybe it's easier to get 5V and put 2 diodes than start pulling wires from the connector. One of thesethank you for that excellent explanation! though I do still have a couple of questionthere are no memories easily available that have the same pinout and also work with 5V, the second best option is to use memories that have the same pinout but work at 3V. For that reason you need to lower the voltage that those flash memories get from 5v to 3v.
1. how are they isolating 5V on the new chip? are they cutting traces or lifting pins, or something else? (I can't tell from the pictures)
2. on NAOMI shouldn't there be 3.3V available already? why not just run a wire from an available 3.3V source instead of dropping from 5V?
I was just reading a few discussions on dropping 5V to 3V, a lot of people seemed comfortable with the diode method claiming that if you're using the right diodes it'd be good for up to 1A which I would think would be more than adequate for this setup.@Darksoft I was reading on a blog about conversions saying that the resistor method is kind of a ticking time bomb and will eventually do damage and that the proper way would be to use a voltage regulator. Is there any truth to that, or just weird fear-mongering?
be careful with it, Naomi NAMCO carts known to have quite bad quality / design, it may stop working for no reason.I can see that Ninja Assault PCB shaking in its boots now.
do you realize you saying this on the forum almost fully consists of all kinds of pirated or illegal stuff ?All kidding aside, there is that ethical/purist/conservation dilemma are heading into now.
I wouldn't have it any other way!do you realize you saying this on the forum almost fully consists of all kinds of pirated or illegal stuff ?
He's a true polish guy, same as DarksoftBTW MetalliC, what region of the world are you located? I am guessing Eastern Europe. Talented engineers in this hobby always come from that region it seems.
Well, this is unfortunately so. The problem is that some people won't work on it unless they see they can make some profit. Then the question remains what do you prefer? not having any hack/special version at all or having it for a price and maybe for free after some time ?Totally, but there are those that will be willing to put in the work and make the sacrifice. That sacrifice includes a donor cart. No problem with those folks since they just want something for themselves and will only take it thus far.
Then there are those that would take the info and make a profit from it. Once Capitalism becomes a factor then the resources will be wiped out. Kind of like what is happening with the worlds Bluefin Tuna population.
BTW MetalliC, what region of the world are you located? I am guessing Eastern Europe. Talented engineers in this hobby always come from that region it seems.