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CPS 1.5 (dash) Phoenixed game question

@zerox_dogma in your first photo, your cps1.5 board has a jamma edge already. You do not need a fingerboard to play it with your supergun. If you didn’t actually receive that part in the shipment, a fingerboard isn’t enough. Cps1.5 has a whole filter board that connects the pcbs together.

Adding a fingerboard to the one in your photo will just add a cutout for the key on pin 7, and a little length. It’s not required. You could even cut Pin 7 with a dremel if you wanted.

The fingerboard will just ensure you can’t plug in the jamma connector upside down. Assuming you also have a key blocked off in your jamma connector! https://www.retrorgb.com/3d-printable-jamma-key-by-greg-collins.html
 
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@zerox_dogma in your first photo, your cps1.5 board has a jamma edge already. You do not need a fingerboard to play it with your supergun. If you didn’t actually receive that part in the shipment, a fingerboard isn’t enough. Cps1.5 has a whole filter board that connects the pcbs together.

Adding a fingerboard to the one in your photo will just add a cutout for the key on pin 7, and a little length. It’s not required. You could even cut Pin 7 with a dremel if you wanted.

The fingerboard will just ensure you can’t plug in the jamma connector upside down. Assuming you also have a key blocked off in your jamma connector! https://www.retrorgb.com/3d-printable-jamma-key-by-greg-collins.html
Yes, the seller will send me the board without the fingerprint. Thats why I asking if somebody can help me selling me one.
 
How I suppose to connect that part with the pcb?
Soldering?
Any video or tutorial I’ll apreciate it.
 

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This looks more complete part for a begginer like me.
Somebody have one of those for sale? Help me guys
 

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What you need depends on what he’s sending you, but there’s no world where you’d need that assembled thing above.

Either you need the whole cps1.5 filter board assembly, or you just need a fingerboard that will slide right in.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/uyvkrhy

it all fits together, held by the blue edge connectors. No solder, just pressure.
 
What you need depends on what he’s sending you, but there’s no world where you’d need that assembled thing above.

Either you need the whole cps1.5 filter board assembly, or you just need a fingerboard that will slide right in.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/uyvkrhy

it all fits together, held by the blue edge connectors. No solder, just pressure.
Ohhh thanks for the pictures.
I think I’m understanding

so I only need buy one of this things
 

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If that’s all he’s not shipping, yes.

And if it arrives looking like that photo above, that is actually 2 finger boards held together with a few bits of plastic ... you’d have to cut one out ;)
 
I think @zerox_dogma is buying the WoF2 from @CoinFeeder and he (CoinF) told me he only has 1 finger board between the 4 CPS 1.5s, so I'm in the same boat as you Zerox. We will both order some finger boards!

Don't worry about the WoF2 board, it looks like it's in great shape and I would have bought it too, but I already have one!

Later, we can both un-Pheonix our boards together (I'm getting the Punisher).
 
I think @zerox_dogma is buying the WoF2 from @CoinFeeder and he (CoinF) told me he only has 1 finger board between the 4 CPS 1.5s, so I'm in the same boat as you Zerox. We will both order some finger boards!

Don't worry about the WoF2 board, it looks like it's in great shape and I would have bought it too, but I already have one!

Later, we can both un-Pheonix our boards together (I'm getting the Punisher).
Oh men I apreciate it. Please let me know inmediatly when you start do that.
Yes I bought the game from @CoinFeeder
Some minutes ago paid the game. Because I was really confused ^^
 
For Q Sound boar suicide free mod, it requires to remove a resistor and a capacitor SMD on the area between the Kabuki and the Battery. You should figure out the values or those components and put them back (let me know if you find the values I want to undo the mod too haha). Also many time, the Kabuki is replaced by a regular Z80 processor, if that is the case, you can find a Kabuki on some CPS2 A board of old revision (I was lucky and I could find one socked). Seems like Capcom had Kabukis from old boards and wanted to save some Z80 by reusing the Kabukis on stock, putting them on non encrypted mode.

For the C Board suicide free mod, it requires to cut 2 traces from the custom chip, and put them to +5V. So you will need to desolder the added wire and restore the traces or take the same wire and put it to ground instead of +5V.

I forget to mention that on the Kabuki mod some guys also cut a trace. But if it was a good mod, it don't cut the trace and let a leg of the EPROM out of the socket and solder a wire to the kabuki (this is more easy to undo).

After you revert back all those hardware modifications, you have to solder back both batteries and use an ardruino UNO to reprogram the Kabuki and the C Board custom using the Arcade Hacker method.

Finally you have to erase the Main CPU and Sound CPU EPROMs and write back the original encrypted code from Mame ROM. Please keep the original labels :)
 
For Q Sound boar suicide free mod, it requires to remove a resistor and a capacitor SMD on the area between the Kabuki and the Battery. You should figure out the values or those components and put them back (let me know if you find the values I want to undo the mod too haha). Also many time, the Kabuki is replaced by a regular Z80 processor, if that is the case, you can find a Kabuki on some CPS2 A board of old revision (I was lucky and I could find one socked). Seems like Capcom had Kabukis from old boards and wanted to save some Z80 by reusing the Kabukis on stock, putting them on non encrypted mode.

For the C Board suicide free mod, it requires to cut 2 traces from the custom chip, and put them to +5V. So you will need to desolder the added wire and restore the traces or take the same wire and put it to ground instead of +5V.

I forget to mention that on the Kabuki mod some guys also cut a trace. But if it was a good mod, it don't cut the trace and let a leg of the EPROM out of the socket and solder a wire to the kabuki (this is more easy to undo).

After you revert back all those hardware modifications, you have to solder back both batteries and use an ardruino UNO to reprogram the Kabuki and the C Board custom using the Arcade Hacker method.

Finally you have to erase the Main CPU and Sound CPU EPROMs and write back the original encrypted code from Mame ROM. Please keep the original labels :)
Damn but its a lot of work :huh:
 
For Q Sound boar suicide free mod, it requires to remove a resistor and a capacitor SMD on the area between the Kabuki and the Battery. You should figure out the values or those components and put them back (let me know if you find the values I want to undo the mod too haha). Also many time, the Kabuki is replaced by a regular Z80 processor, if that is the case, you can find a Kabuki on some CPS2 A board of old revision (I was lucky and I could find one socked). Seems like Capcom had Kabukis from old boards and wanted to save some Z80 by reusing the Kabukis on stock, putting them on non encrypted mode.

For the C Board suicide free mod, it requires to cut 2 traces from the custom chip, and put them to +5V. So you will need to desolder the added wire and restore the traces or take the same wire and put it to ground instead of +5V.

I forget to mention that on the Kabuki mod some guys also cut a trace. But if it was a good mod, it don't cut the trace and let a leg of the EPROM out of the socket and solder a wire to the kabuki (this is more easy to undo).

After you revert back all those hardware modifications, you have to solder back both batteries and use an ardruino UNO to reprogram the Kabuki and the C Board custom using the Arcade Hacker method.

Finally you have to erase the Main CPU and Sound CPU EPROMs and write back the original encrypted code from Mame ROM. Please keep the original labels :)
Damn but its a lot of work :huh:
No, don't worry, it's supper easy. One hour with the right tools.
 
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