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Great design and price, very cool. I have a question and a couple of suggestions.

About the LCD, I see a couple of cutouts and the ribbon that connects to the LCD going through them. Is there a reason for this?

Cutouts are cool but one of the points of having the multi enclosed is to avoid the acumulation of dust on the PCB.

I think it would be a good idea to have a + - and a T, for the Volume up, down and Test buttons. Same thing from the LCD panel buttons.

About the fan, given the original one is 60 mm if i’m not making a mistake, the 80 mm Noctua should be perfect for the case.

Thanks,
\o/.k.
 
Great design and price, very cool. I have a question and a couple of suggestions.

About the LCD, I see a couple of cutouts and the ribbon that connects to the LCD going through them. Is there a reason for this?

Cutouts are cool but one of the points of having the multi enclosed is to avoid the acumulation of dust on the PCB.

I think it would be a good idea to have a + - and a T, for the Volume up, down and Test buttons. Same thing from the LCD panel buttons.

About the fan, given the original one is 60 mm if i’m not making a mistake, the 80 mm Noctua should be perfect for the case.

Thanks,
\o/.k.
Thanks.
LCD panel have too many cutouts, because the cable is coming from UP. I couldn't do anything about that, because it is design. If cable plug opposite way (under the LCD ) will be great.( please check the pictures of LCD. You will understand what I mean)

Maybe you right about of the DUST ;)
There will be buttons for three switch. Don't worry about that.
Im still think about it. There is 2 different option. I will try to make it for 80mm fan or original. If someone buy the case and want to use original FAN. It will be problem :(
 
No one will want to use the original fan if they have to take it apart to put it in your case.

The way Jassen deals with the LCD is the buyer had to solder on a new attachment so the wires weren’t in the way. I think it looks much clear, but that’s something I don’t think many people want to deal with. Your cut out looks fine in that regard.

The fan is different. No one should keep the smaller loud fan if they are already taking apart the A board, especially because fans are so cheap.
 
No one will want to use the original fan if they have to take it apart to put it in your case.

The way Jassen deals with the LCD is the buyer had to solder on a new attachment so the wires weren’t in the way. I think it looks much clear, but that’s something I don’t think many people want to deal with. Your cut out looks fine in that regard.

The fan is different. No one should keep the smaller loud fan if they are already taking apart the A board, especially because fans are so cheap.
Ok then, I will try to make it for 80mm FAN ;)

Actually I was think about the LCD screen. If the people want to solder the pins, it will be more clear. LET me ask all of the buyer about it. We can vote it in here too ;)
 
Great design and price, very cool. I have a question and a couple of suggestions.

About the LCD, I see a couple of cutouts and the ribbon that connects to the LCD going through them. Is there a reason for this?

Cutouts are cool but one of the points of having the multi enclosed is to avoid the acumulation of dust on the PCB.

I think it would be a good idea to have a + - and a T, for the Volume up, down and Test buttons. Same thing from the LCD panel buttons.

About the fan, given the original one is 60 mm if i’m not making a mistake, the 80 mm Noctua should be perfect for the case.

Thanks,
\o/.k.
It is because the IDC cable connects to the top of the lcd control panel. You are right it would be better to do without the cutout but then the end user would need to either flip the IDC connector to the opposite side of the board or perhaps put a right angle one on. Either way I wouldn't be opposed to having to do that, its a pretty simple soldering job but obviously not for everyone.

I thought the fan issue was actually resolved and given the space constraints the largest standard size fan that would fit is the 80mm.
 
Actually I was think about the LCD screen. If the people want to solder the pins, it will be more clear. LET me ask all of the buyer about it. We can vote it in here too
if it's ony desolderung the old connector and resoldering it on the underside or soldering a new connector i'm totally fine.

concerning the fan, i' totally cool with the 60mm fan beacuse i replaced it for a pabst, but i also have absolutely no problem replacing it with a noctua ;)
 
Actually I was think about the LCD screen. If the people want to solder the pins, it will be more clear. LET me ask all of the buyer about it. We can vote it in here too
if it's ony desolderung the old connector and resoldering it on the underside or soldering a new connector i'm totally fine.
concerning the fan, i' totally cool with the 60mm fan beacuse i replaced it for a pabst, but i also have absolutely no problem replacing it with a noctua ;)
The advantage with the 80mm fan is that it's a standard size PC case fan so there are plenty to choose from and they cost peanuts, the replacement CPS2 60mm fan you have to get from some obscure place and pay a considerable amount more for. It's effectively less performance for more $$$.

Regarding the LCD (pic stolen from Tom's google drive link) but yeah, just need to solder the connector on the underside
 

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if it's ony desolderung the old connector and resoldering it on the underside or soldering a new connector i'm totally fine.concerning the fan, i' totally cool with the 60mm fan beacuse i replaced it for a pabst, but i also have absolutely no problem replacing it with a noctua ;)
The advantage with the 80mm fan is that it's a standard size PC case fan so there are plenty to choose from and they cost peanuts, the replacement CPS2 60mm fan you have to get from some obscure place and pay a considerable amount more for. It's effectively less performance for more $$$.
Regarding the LCD (pic stolen from Tom's google drive link) but yeah, just need to solder the connector on the underside
arrow points at the buttons, connector is the other side ;)
 
Reversing the connector will also reverse the pinout, meaning you'll potentially damage the LCD by sending the wrong signals to it, e.g. power.
 
Oh yeah fair one, ok then just fit a right angle connector to the top and pinout remains the same
 
Why not make the opening for the cable a small rectangular slot, efficiently sized to accommodate the ribbon cable (just the cable / wires).

Buy some nice rainbow ribbon cable and the IDC housings unassembled.

Then feed the cable through before crimping on one end of the IDC housing.

Yes it's more work but nowhere near as daunting as soldering for those that don't know how. Anyone can crimp a cable.

Picture to demonstrate principle of idea. I fit the ribbon cable through one of the top air vent slits by feeding the cable through first and crimping the IDC housing once it was through.
PART_1544334950126.jpg


Or...

Panel mount a two way IDC connector to the metal case. Use two separate cables, one to go from inside of metal case to multi, another small patch cable to go from the outside of metal case to LCD.

Just some ideas.
 
Nah, I like the way he did it initially with just a small cut out for the connector. I think we are over thinking this. I think either they way he has it now, or like Jasen, and we all put in the angled connector after de-soldering the original.
 
My vote is for leave it be or set it up for the right angle connector. I thought Jasen had a good idea there and I'm willing to change mine to that. Upside down, as noted, starts messing with pinout and that's worrisome to me.
 
This is my personal feedback on the design.
I think the CPS2 Cutout is very distracting and looks very messy.
Personally I would do an emboss of CAPCOM logo and rectangle space for the decal if you can do it this way
4Ow4RmS.jpg
I love this concept, the capcom logo looks beautiful and less holes. This concept, a bigger fan and perhaps not including the hole for the small board connector (in my case I can deal with soldering) sounds like the perfect option for me.
 
I like the cp2 cutout. You could also very easily put a clear or other color plexi piece under the logo cutout if you want to block the holes but keep the look, the cp3 case does that. Its a metal box it needs some holes. You are kinda stuck with getting some dust inside over time its the nature of the beast. Option for ribbon cable cutouts or no cutouts would be nice. Replace with right angle connector would be an easy solder job and eliminate 2 more cutouts in the case.

Only nitpick i have is the 3 diagonal cutout on each side going all the way down the sides to the bottom. i think would look nice just on the top ending at the plexi running theu the middle kind of like how the vent slots are cut in the plastic of the original case (see pic couple posts up of green case) Kind of tie in to the original design but like i said nitpick.
 
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I should imagine the embossing work is a lot easier said than done as nice as it looks though. I do like the recess for the multi sticker, I had planned to put mine in the same location.
 
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