CPS-3 Custom METAL Case

Received my case as well, thoroughly impressed with the quality and thought into its' design. Installation was a breeze. I've used several other cases in the past, and this is by far the best one. Thanks again for updating the design and doing another run of these cases for us.
 
@hursit just got it all installed and the quality is incredible def love the case. The led looks great. But I am also having issue with dip selector. It is only bringing up 4th strike, street fighter 3, and third strike. Did you come up with a fix?

0-4th strike arranged edition

1-street fighter 3

2-street fighter 3

3-street fighter 3

4- third strike

5-street fighter 3

6-street fighter 3

7-street fighter 3
working on it.
 
Just got the case it's well built. Didn't need to use the LED wires but it's good that they're there. Unfortunately the game selection knob was not helping me, it just kept going between 4th strike and sf 3 new generation. Therefore I plugged back the dip switch for the darksoft Simms. Quick question is the volume knob and reset button supposed to be loose?
d3923fb7-ddc4-4e83-abe1-426ecbfbfd8b-1_all_23257.jpg
is it possible to check your setup please for the Game Selector ?
some people lived same problem but they fixed it when they re-set it
thanks.
 
just installed the 90 degree adapters and the setup looks very clean!!!

Take a look https://photos.app.goo.gl/SsSDwRnjdYh1CM12A
Cartridge mounted like that with housing with it would put quite a bit of strain on the cart slot, you may wana take out the housing (to reduce its weight) but then I am not sure if the chip would be too close to the case ceiling causing a short. My two cents on this.
 
Cartridge mounted like that with housing with it would put quite a bit of strain on the cart slot, you may wana take out the housing but then I am not sure if the chip would be too close to the case ceiling causing a short. My two cents on this.
Thanks! Just tested today for 4h and I had no problem with it.
 
Installed these adapters into 3/4 of my boards. I put temporary colored cardboard to close up the cart slot hole. I plan on designing a 3D printed insert to close that hole up.
SBOGXmZ.jpeg


For me, I had to remove the cart shell to get it to fit because I have heat syncs installed on the 2 customs next to the cart slot.
here you can see the cart adapter not fully pushed into the slot, but that hump on the cart would get in the way of the heat syncs:
MtUYz91.jpeg


Removing the cart shell, it fits nicely, but the problem is the shell helped with keeping the cart more securely in the slot. Without the shell, the cart PCB is wobbly:
Mli8tjy.jpeg


My solution to this was to fasten a stand-off with an adhesive base onto the cart, and stick it to the mobo to keep it secured:
FlQPPhr.jpeg


Only one stand-off was needed, and luckily the screw-hole for the cart's corner sits directly over a clear space on the mobo to stick the base to:
RyTePcp.jpeg


It now fits nice and solid, no wobble or movement, no strain. Fits in both my TRFightstick and Jasen Customs cases. This will help keep my boardsets safer, especially when I'm traveling around Southern Cali with them for our monthly tournaments.
 
Installed these adapters into 3/4 of my boards. I put temporary colored cardboard to close up the cart slot hole. I plan on designing a 3D printed insert to close that hole up.
SBOGXmZ.jpeg


For me, I had to remove the cart shell to get it to fit because I have heat syncs installed on the 2 customs next to the cart slot.
here you can see the cart adapter not fully pushed into the slot, but that hump on the cart would get in the way of the heat syncs:
MtUYz91.jpeg


Removing the cart shell, it fits nicely, but the problem is the shell helped with keeping the cart more securely in the slot. Without the shell, the cart PCB is wobbly:
Mli8tjy.jpeg


My solution to this was to fasten a stand-off with an adhesive base onto the cart, and stick it to the mobo to keep it secured:
FlQPPhr.jpeg


Only one stand-off was needed, and luckily the screw-hole for the cart's corner sits directly over a clear space on the mobo to stick the base to:
RyTePcp.jpeg


It now fits nice and solid, no wobble or movement, no strain. Fits in both my TRFightstick and Jasen Customs cases. This will help keep my boardsets safer, especially when I'm traveling around Southern Cali with them for our monthly tournaments.
Using stand-offs for cart PCB is really smart!
 
Installed these adapters into 3/4 of my boards. I put temporary colored cardboard to close up the cart slot hole. I plan on designing a 3D printed insert to close that hole up.
SBOGXmZ.jpeg


For me, I had to remove the cart shell to get it to fit because I have heat syncs installed on the 2 customs next to the cart slot.
here you can see the cart adapter not fully pushed into the slot, but that hump on the cart would get in the way of the heat syncs:
MtUYz91.jpeg


Removing the cart shell, it fits nicely, but the problem is the shell helped with keeping the cart more securely in the slot. Without the shell, the cart PCB is wobbly:
Mli8tjy.jpeg


My solution to this was to fasten a stand-off with an adhesive base onto the cart, and stick it to the mobo to keep it secured:
FlQPPhr.jpeg


Only one stand-off was needed, and luckily the screw-hole for the cart's corner sits directly over a clear space on the mobo to stick the base to:
RyTePcp.jpeg


It now fits nice and solid, no wobble or movement, no strain. Fits in both my TRFightstick and Jasen Customs cases. This will help keep my boardsets safer, especially when I'm traveling around Southern Cali with them for our monthly tournaments.
Amazing 🙀 i was also thinking about designing a 3d part for the “hole”
 
I recently got my metal case, and it fits pretty well, but I don't know where to put the wires for the LED. Does it connect to the CPS III somewhere, or do I have to get something for it?
 
I recently got my metal case, and it fits pretty well, but I don't know where to put the wires for the LED. Does it connect to the CPS III somewhere, or do I have to get something for it?
You can use the GND and 12V points on the Jamma edge. I can't attach a picture right now but I soldered to the "circles" above the gold plates off the edge.
 
I recently got my metal case, and it fits pretty well, but I don't know where to put the wires for the LED. Does it connect to the CPS III somewhere, or do I have to get something for it?
If you’re not using the cd drive, you can crimp wires to an atx molex power connector and attach it to the port on the back of the board.
That’s the cleanest, non-destructive way.

Hell, even if you are using a CD drive you can always get a splitter for that molex connector.
 
Right! I got my sweet CPS3 case today! Ok, I have a question. I'm going to connect the LED to my Molex connector, I've seen people use the yellow 12V line for power, but I want to mod a different color LED. If I do that, should I use the 5V line? ( and what ohms resistor do I need? )
 
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Right! I got my sweet CPS3 case today! Ok, I have a question. I'm going to connect the LED to my Molex connector, I've seen people use the yellow 12V line for power, but I want to mod a different color LED. If I do that, should I use the 5V line? ( and what ohms resistor do I need? )

You can buy LED strips in 5v or 12v generally, resistor will depend on the colour and how far you want to reduce the brightness

My suggestion would be to buy a bag of mixed resistors and test it on the bench to determine what you’re happy with then install it

As a guide I would say 100-220R is usually pretty good
 
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