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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

The multi itself is very easy to install, I believe most problems come down to donor selection.
Why can't they just say USE SF2:CE/HF as donor PERIOD!

Its got the best A-board (12mhz Dash) and its got a battery-less B21 C-board.
Provide decrypted/B21 conversion ROMs in the pack just like the original CPS2 decrypted packs (before key writing was a thing).

Done and Done!
For the people who want to go the extra mile (just like with the original CPS2 kits optional wire install) they can track down a battery locked C-board (or modify the existing CE/HF C-board).

I tried/pushed for this when it was announced that the kit would need a "special" (accepting of a new key) C-board.
It was IMO a mistake that could be remedied at any point, just release the conversion ROMs pack and update the manual.

Key writing in most situations requires piecing together two different donor PCBs, because you want the 12mhz A-board BUT you also want that battery backed C-board.
As was my case... I had a perfectly good SF2CE used for conversions for years, but had to track down another stack just for its C-board.
It kinda pissed me off to be perfectly honest, and really I see it hurting sales in the long run because again the multi is easy to install, but the requirements/hardware for using it are not.

Look at multis in the past...
  • CPS2 Multi only needed CPS2 donor (any PCB)
  • F3 Multi only needed F3 donor (any PCB)
  • MVS Multi only needed MVS motherboard (any motherboard)
  • STV Multi only needed STV motherboard (any motherboard)
Now?
  • CPS1 Multi should have specific motherboard for optimal performance, AND should have specific C-board (to play all the games and not just the B21 key'd).
Clearly the best multi in terms of games (I attest this to be fact and not opinion) but how are the sales?
I feel like tons of people on the pre-order list didn't actually order when it became available, that should speak volumes to the approach (no I don't think they were all discouraged by the price tag, but lets face it some likely were as this is also the most expensive multi to date).
 
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dos said:
You're dealing with "what's a 68000" level of knowledge here, which honestly kinda surprises me. Only a few years ago that would have been unheard of because they would be firmly in pandora's box land, if that. Knowing this I would honestly put a giant extremely beginner level explanation of ESD on the first page of the manual and also as a printout you can't avoid in the multi box.
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Wow thanks bro. Next time you have a question on anything I hope someone calls you out just like you did here.

Rock on my dude
 
@keiichi331 perhaps I encouraged this comment, I just want you to know I didn't come here to put anyone down.
As I mentioned I'm no hardware expert, I've just been in a scene for a while.

Lets get back to getting your kit working for longer than 20mins, I'd like to help with that if I can.
You deserve respect and help, that's what I'd like to offer (if I'm able).
 
@keiichi331 Do you remember what pin you did that solder bridge to? I wonder if that didn't cause some failure in a component?? May it affect some ram? Is there test/diagnostic rom for cps1 like there is for cps2 that you can try?
 
keiichi331 said:
Wow thanks bro. Next time you have a question on anything I hope someone calls you out just like you did here.

Rock on my dude
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Dude I didn't really mean that in a bad way, just that there are a lot of people coming into this without the sort of knowledge that used to be sort of expected, and that maybe the people making the manuals and stuff for these products should take note. I absolutely think it's a good thing that people are choosing to get their hands dirty with real hardware and not the aforementioned pandoras boxes and crap like that. I have personally helped out tons of people lately who are coming to this with almost zero technical knowledge and have never had an idea to put them down or whatever. If it came off wrong, I apologize.

EDIT: Also, because I still feel like a heel I want to clarify that I was responding to @jassin000 's comment that certain things should be "common knowledge" by pointing out that just above we had someone asking what a 68000 was, and that things that may be obvious to some people may not be to others. Looking back it was tact-less to use you as an example, but in my mind I was advocating for you. Again, sorry man.
 
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dos said:
Dude I didn't really mean that in a bad way, just that there are a lot of people coming into this without the sort of knowledge that used to be sort of expected, and that maybe the people making the manuals and stuff for these products should take note. I absolutely think it's a good thing that people are choosing to get their hands dirty with real hardware and not the aforementioned pandoras boxes and crap like that. I have personally helped out tons of people lately who are coming to this with almost zero technical knowledge and have never had an idea to put them down or whatever. If it came off wrong, I apologize.

EDIT: Also, because I still feel like a heel I want to clarify that I was responding to @jassin000 's comment that certain things should be "common knowledge" by pointing out that just above we had someone asking what a 68000 was, and that things that may be obvious to some people may not be to others. Looking back it was tact-less to use you as an example, but in my mind I was advocating for you. Again, sorry man.
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No worries man! I appreciate the apology, we good brotha! Now... how can I get this multi to work longer than 20m, im pretty sure I can't 1cc any of the games in 20 minutes...
@Derick2k - I gonna try putting the passive heat sinks on the CPU and put a fan in there to see if that's good to go. As for the bridge, it was the sound pin (2 row, 3rd pin from the right) I had gotten a solder bridge on both 3rd and 4th pin there.
@jassin000 - No worries man, We're all here to enjoy awesome gaming and drama free! we aint no Neo-geo.com!
 
Isn't one of the "games" on the multi a CPS1 test program ?
 
First off all: thanks for this beautiful multi, the .Pdf manual and “how to” video.
So after lot of time following the thread project, here it is with lot of excitation.

Unfortunately I have sound issue on most of the games :
Sound level is unbalanced between music (good) and special effect (low volume).
Example : 1941 machine gun are soundless in game – Final Fight & SF punch/hit are same too low.
All CPS 1.5 games seems ok, and surprisingly some CPS1 sounds good : Strider,Lost worlds,GG,Area88,Willow,Dynasty wars, Capcom Quiz have right sound.

What I did :
Reading the manual and checking every point again and again
Try 3 SD Sandisk card with the 3 romset from “archive link” (US,EU,JP)
Try 2 C-board 92641C : first was unmodified (just remove the bat) and second modified (I revert modifications to put back as original).
Try into 3 cabinets : 2 NAC and 1 Euro upright & play with sound potentiometer adjustment.
Play with dip switch from all OFF to default suggest (00000000-11000000-00000110)
None of this solve the problem, all games running fine, no bug, no glitch, every sound/music present but still low volume special effect.

I had no problem with my donor card, may be because it was a Strider JP convert and this Rom is part of the games that works fine with my multi. The A board is short 12 MHz with original audio (HA13001 amp).

Any idea is welcome, may be some one heard about same sound trouble with original CPS game (without multi).
 
keiichi331 said:
No worries man! I appreciate the apology, we good brotha! Now... how can I get this multi to work longer than 20m, im pretty sure I can't 1cc any of the games in 20 minutes...
@Derick2k - I gonna try putting the passive heat sinks on the CPU and put a fan in there to see if that's good to go. As for the bridge, it was the sound pin (2 row, 3rd pin from the right) I had gotten a solder bridge on both 3rd and 4th pin there.
@jassin000 - No worries man, We're all here to enjoy awesome gaming and drama free! we aint no Neo-geo.com!
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Why does your A board have non-original dipswitches? Were these replaced at some point?
 
THCsoftcore said:
Why does your A board have non-original dipswitches? Were these replaced at some point?
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This was what I though twas an original SF2:Hyper, I noticed that too. Im not sure why the dips are different Im going to try using another a board, I have 2 more dash boards I can try but they're both 10Mhz crystals and cpus
 
Anyone else have graphical issues in Slam Masters + all other variants? This is the only game that has issues that I’ve seen so far. Here’s a video of the issue:
View: https://youtu.be/WYfLHkwo6WQ


C board: 92641C-1 original, removed battery
A board: 89626A-4, with marqs digiAV HDMI mod
 
the Goat said:
But not all boards with a DASH label are 12 MHz.
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Sad but true, I've seen SF2:CE boards for sale with a 10mhz A-board and for some reason they transferred the "Dash" label with the ROM/B-board.
Makes it look like an original stack, only with a short 10mhz A rather than factory correct Dash.
 
Epyc said:
Anyone else have graphical issues in Slam Masters + all other variants? This is the only game that has issues that I’ve seen so far. Here’s a video of the issue:
View: https://youtu.be/WYfLHkwo6WQ


C board: 92641C-1 original, removed battery
A board: 89626A-4, with marqs digiAV HDMI mod
Click to expand...
No that's not normal and it's like very obvious. I would suggest trying with a different A or C board.
 
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