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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

Kujako said:
Thanks, was having a hard time finding it. Doesn’t seem to test Q-Sound, but everything else looks ok to me.

71514439-B6BD-4456-A259-12FE5312EFA0.jpeg
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It does test your Work RAM and Video RAM which is useful for confirming proper hardware functionality.

With the freezing Q Sound games, double-check that you have the Q Sound wire connected properly. Otherwise I’d suggest trying a different SD card.
 
ShootTheCore said:
It does test your Work RAM and Video RAM which is useful for confirming proper hardware functionality.

With the freezing Q Sound games, double-check that you have the Q Sound wire connected properly. Otherwise I’d suggest trying a different SD card.
Click to expand...
Tried a few sd cards at this point. I’m fairly sure I have the Q-Sound wire right, but will check it again in the light of day. Would that cause the game to not load? I thought that it would just effect the sound not switching correctly.
 
Meter out the Qsound wire too. Make sure it is functional. Experience for me with dupont wires is that they aren't always functional.

You are formatting and setting up your microSD card in a Windows-based system, yeah?
 
Wraith said:
It looks like your Strider Dip B settings are incorrect unless I’m reading something wrong. I have used these two sources for default dip settings for strider.

https://www.arcade-museum.com/dipswitch-settings/9838.html

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/S/Strider.pdf

Shouldn’t Dip B be “01000000” according to these sources?
Click to expand...
I'm going by what's in MAME which shows something kinda different to the manual (all were set to defaults by pressing enter on each item). The "Internal Diff. on Life Loss" isn't even mentioned there so I really don't know which one is correct:

1653887002598.png


Anyone with advanced knowledge of Strider or a picture of the JP instructions? Wouldn't be the first time a US manual had an error, but also MAME gets stuff wrong too, so I don't know which one to believe.
 
Hi, it was working for first few flashes (Punisher, KOD) now it says it flashed, but I get garbage on the screen or an all white screen with some roms. When loading Carrier AirWing I at least got an error “OBJ Ram No Good”. I’ve made sure the A board still works with original game and securely reseated everything. I’ve reformatted the SD and re copied the games. Tried two different cabinets. Swapped the PAL on A board per instructions.





Unmodified 92641C-1 with the battery removed

A board 12mhz dash

Dips are all in off position

Voltages good 5v, 12v

Sandisk 8gb that came with the multi
 
Just curious for the folks getting glitchy behavior and/or RAM errors - does power cycling the board after the game is done flashing cause any different behavior?
 
I’ve tried removing the reset wire and power cycling and unfortunately made no difference.
 
For those reporting issues. The following would be helpful for remote troubleshooting.

Clear pics of the soldering points on the underside of the A-Board and also pics of the wires attached to the pins on the multi.

Photos of the C-Board front and back and confirmation the board was previously working or not.

Size of SD card, brand and speed.

Specs of the A-Board: CPU speed, Crystal speed, revision, etc.

Photos of the multi stack together from different angles.
 
This is the card that came with the kit that was causing issues. It worked fine for the first few flashes. I had tried to format and copy files again but that didn’t help.
CAB69D3B-C3E5-4B44-91F7-11D3F706F162.jpeg
 
midwaydj said:
This is the card that came with the kit that was causing issues. It worked fine for the first few flashes. I had tried to format and copy files again but that didn’t help.
CAB69D3B-C3E5-4B44-91F7-11D3F706F162.jpeg
Click to expand...
A lot of these end up being fake or they dont work some times even if legit. I almost always use Samsung cards for things like these and higher end cards for my cameras.
 
I use and provide a similar Sandisk card for my store that has zero issues. I make sure to test from the batch extensively before offering them with kits. The cards I use have been tested with all multis without a hitch.

The Sandisk “EDGE” cards are different from standard cards it seems, google says they use “3D NAND storage technology” whatever that is. Seems like they’re the same cards they use internally for their USB sticks.

Always best to stick with the smallest class 4 cards. Who did you buy your kit from, any others having issues with the same card? It might just be a bad card, it happens…

Glad you’re up and running though.
 
ekorz said:
You might be able to populate a single pin header here. Otherwise I think it’s pin20 on the HD68HC0000 and that has a via that would probably fit a pin. The reset signal off the multi is pulling low, i.e. it’s not being inverted between the currently-used-pin and the cpu, so I don’t see why you couldn’t use that directly.
Click to expand...
Why yes, if one were so inclined. Yes. One is able to fit a pin header to that solder point for RESET.

RESET_PIN_HEADER.JPG
 
Mine has arrives yesterday and today I test it during a long time. Very good product, thanks to all the people that make this.

I have a weird issues. This is my configuration:

89626A-4 A board
92641C-1 C board with battery removed
PC with Windows10

In 3 Wonders when game's selection appear, the screen is all in blue, but when I start playing the colors are fine. This happen with all versions of the game.

1654008548483.jpg1654008548460.jpg

In the other side this issue is with Forgotten Worlds Joystick version. A colmumn of letter G appear on the left side of the screen.

1654008548500.jpg

And that's all for now. This is only for curiosity, What's this?

1654009042721.jpg
 
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