Yep, my bad… something like this: https://www.jaycar.com.au/small-breadboard-layout-prototyping-board/p/HP9570
- Thread starter Darksoft
- Start date
I think it's a regional thing where some places call protoboard breadboards. In the US a breadboard specifically means the thing you build circuits on without soldering, but I've seen it used interchangeably in other English speaking countries
Street Fighter II' - Champion Edition (Xiang Long, Chinese bootleg set 2) in the game list This game does not play properly Is there a problem with the romset?!
Darksoft romsets 5/13 and 5/24 romsets are not playable.
Darksoft romsets 5/13 and 5/24 romsets are not playable.
I'm not quite ready yet. thank you!
I can't wait for the day when I will be able to play soon!!
Question about Dip:
Yesterday I set dip A to 1 coin=3credits, played Area 88 only and turned off.
Today I turn on the cabinet and get 1 credit per token each time.
I erase/reload Area88 via the lcd selector and get 3 credits per token.
Is this normal or is there a problem with my A board not saving Dip setting after shutdown?
Yesterday I set dip A to 1 coin=3credits, played Area 88 only and turned off.
Today I turn on the cabinet and get 1 credit per token each time.
I erase/reload Area88 via the lcd selector and get 3 credits per token.
Is this normal or is there a problem with my A board not saving Dip setting after shutdown?
mathewbeall
Champion
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
Perhaps try some DeOxit or similar lubricating contact cleaner before replacement route?
Note that you can test the switches using a multimeter in continuity mode.
Just got my dip remote from @Mitsurugi-w, working great! You can turn on Test mode and there is a Dip Switch test which lets you test each dip in real time.
arcadeaction
Enthusiast
Just did the same thing and was going to recommend going into a game test mode as well. Install was easy and everything checked out. The kick harness adapter to CPS2 works well also.
arcadeaction
Enthusiast
Unfortunately I am now experiencing a similar issue again where none of the CPS 1.5 games are loading or playing sound. I am using the same SD card as before where all but one CPS 1.5 game (Musclebomber Duo has not worked yet for me) were playing audio over JAMMA and loading.
I have set the DIPs on the remote board to off for the CPS 1.5 games, and the remote DIP board seemingly checked out with multimeter and with onscreen game test mode. Earlier tonight I did get a couple of the CPS1.5 games to load, but they would not play audio over the RCA cables in a stereo cab. After the games loaded into memory, there would be a second or two of loud shrieking noise and the game played but no other audio through the stereo connection.
Not sure what to try. Maybe I'll redo the SD card again, as for some reason most all CPS 1.5 games are just loading to a dark screen right now.
I have set the DIPs on the remote board to off for the CPS 1.5 games, and the remote DIP board seemingly checked out with multimeter and with onscreen game test mode. Earlier tonight I did get a couple of the CPS1.5 games to load, but they would not play audio over the RCA cables in a stereo cab. After the games loaded into memory, there would be a second or two of loud shrieking noise and the game played but no other audio through the stereo connection.
Not sure what to try. Maybe I'll redo the SD card again, as for some reason most all CPS 1.5 games are just loading to a dark screen right now.
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
May I ask how you desoldered these? They are a total pain to remove.I did this because I was numb to the dip switch issue.
It is comfortable.
Thanks for the app link and video, good sir. However, I am finding absolutely nothing at ye old Archive except for old emulator-oriented types of "multipacks." I've tried a variety of different search strings including the obvious and not-so-obvious. I don't mind putting my own files together, except the following is clear as mud and don't know where to look such a thing up, so I'm 100% stuck:
"config" has a value from 0 to 32 and indicates the Graphic PAL that will be used
OK. Which PAL is that? What does 0-32 mean? https://github.com/mamedev/mame/blob/master/src/mame/video/cps1.cpp, the closest thing I can think of as far as listing all the key chips on the CPS-1 boards, lists B and C-board PALs which certainly don't coincide with just "0-32". I'm familiar with IOC1 and so forth. Does that mean I enter in a 1 for that? Can you please clarify? These instructions are incredibly vague if you're not a CPS-1 hardware engineer (or reverse engineer?).
I finally found the landing page w/ misc. multipacks for dl. For some stupid reason, the top-right search bar worked whereas the top and main page ones did not...............
In any case, more clear instructions on how to put together the packs would be very helpful. I am always down to learn more about my favorite arcade system, anyway.
Not sure about OP but for me Hakko FR-301 made it a 2 minute job. I added a little fresh solder by dragging a large chisel tip across everything first. Then the desoldering gun sucks up everything and the parts practically fall out afterwards. I suppose you could use a cheap handheld suction pump but that’s gonna take way longer. I’d probably add a little chipquik to each joint if it was gonna do it that way, so the joints stayed molten longer.
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
I have a cheaper knock off, but all good tips. Thank you both. Love chipquik.
