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DARKSOFT CPS2 Champion Multi: Instructions and tips (new Version after 10.2020)

I'm ready to install my multi but had a couple of questions and clarifications before I started.

I plan on on using this
DE21-B1-CE-F024-40-C6-91-EB-40-BA820-D5-CDB.jpg
CPS2

As the Case is cracked. The side buttons are missing, and I have 2 working XMEN SF

Its version 3 USA with a F-Pal.

Just to clarify, the Champion edition requires no modification to the F-Pal correct?

One more I do not need to solder the jumpers to clarify?

I bought the key writing cable and was wondering what the difference was between running keys and running a decrypted romset.

Thanks again @Darksoft for creating this and I'm stoked to start using it.
 
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From my experience with one install of the CE, there's no need for jumpers or modification of the pal chip. It's just a straight install.

I have no experience with the decrypted rom set unfortunately as I've always had the key writing cable installed from day 1.
 
No need to change PAL or Jumpers with the new kit.

Using a key writing wire injects the keys so it’s 1:1 the same as the original game. Decrypted has the protection removed.

If your board set doesn’t have a JST header you can solder directly to the CN header to get the keys written.
 
I have the PCB ver: 93646B-3

I don't see a C-9 Header unfortunately. I do have a 2 pin CN8.

So where exactly would I solder which wires of the key writer?

And because I'm now soldering, Am I better off just loading a decrypted Romset?

988361-EA-B518-486-C-90-E2-2-AC0607-ECF4-C.jpg



djsheep said:
No need to change PAL or Jumpers with the new kit.

Using a key writing wire injects the keys so it’s 1:1 the same as the original game. Decrypted has the protection removed.

If your board set doesn’t have a JST header you can solder directly to the CN header to get the keys written.
Click to expand...
 
hoagtech said:
I have the PCB ver: 93646B-3

I don't see a C-9 Header unfortunately. I do have a 2 pin CN8.

So where exactly would I solder which wires of the key writer?

And because I'm now soldering, Am I better off just loading a decrypted Romset?

988361-EA-B518-486-C-90-E2-2-AC0607-ECF4-C.jpg
Click to expand...
I’d highly recommend getting the write wire soldered as it also performs resets for you. If you can’t, though, just be aware that after a new game is selected and loaded you will have to power-cycle for the game to boot.
 
TodoRojo said:
I’d highly recommend getting the write wire soldered as it also performs resets for you. If you can’t, though, just be aware that after a new game is selected and loaded you will have to power-cycle for the game to boot.
Click to expand...
I believe you. I'm just trying to get iteration on where and why..
 
mR_CaESaR said:
Yeah you have the wrong cable for your revision board unfortunately.

If you can crimp yourself, things are easier.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by that? I don't have ANY connector other than CN9

I have my Hakko out and was gonna solder directly to the CN2
 
You still need the jst nh 6 way to connect to the DS board, so you crimp your own 4 cables that are long enough go reach cn2 a29-a32

Unless you're just going to solder directly from cn2 to the multi directly which you can also do :)
 
mR_CaESaR said:
You still need the jst nh 6 way to connect to the DS board, so you crimp your own 4 cables that are long enough go reach cn2 a29-a32

Unless you're just going to solder directly from cn2 to the multi directly which you can also do :)
Click to expand...
Oh I see. NP at all though. I’m “heatshrink rich” ATM and plan on soldering each extension and shrinking all 4 with a wide heatshrink
 
The soldering went great and the everything is setup properly and ready to rock.

1-B950-F03-00-B1-4-FC1-A954-76-DF59-F7-CE0-C.jpg


I wanted to confirm that I do not need 2 sockets on my board correct?

968-A1069-1454-4959-893-A-3-D9-E55545188.jpg
 
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