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DARKSOFT CPS2 Champion Multi: Instructions and tips (new Version after 10.2020)

Let me know if these help...
 

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The cable orientation is fine. Two things though:

1. In the second photo, can you push down the plastic clamp to make sure it's clamping down on the cable and firmly in place, that looks a little janky, as is.
2. Do you have a multimeter? If so, with the cable connected, can you check for continuity from between the long pins on the multi and the cable connector solder points on the underside of the selector?
 
djsheep said:
The cable orientation is fine. Two things though:

1. In the second photo, can you push down the plastic clamp to make sure it's clamping down on the cable and firmly in place, that looks a little janky, as is.
2. Do you have a multimeter? If so, with the cable connected, can you check for continuity from between the long pins on the multi and the cable connector solder points on the underside of the selector?
Click to expand...
Both are a bit jank, actually. I'll try smushing them more.

What should I be looking for with the multimeter?
 
djsheep said:
The cable orientation is fine. Two things though:

1. In the second photo, can you push down the plastic clamp to make sure it's clamping down on the cable and firmly in place, that looks a little janky, as is.
2. Do you have a multimeter? If so, with the cable connected, can you check for continuity from between the long pins on the multi and the cable connector solder points on the underside of the selector?
Click to expand...

MOFO! Clamping both ends of the ribbon did it! I got illumination and was able to load a game.

THANK YOU! I feel so incredibly dumb for not trying that before. Thank you thank you thank you! Apologies @Darksoft for sullying your helpful thread.

Dumb Q - In removing the cable a bunch of times, some of the plastic got shaved off. Not worried now, but for the long term use maybe it is concerning. Any recommended best practices for adding molding to plastic to retain original shape?

Thank you djsheep!
 
No problems mate, glad to have helped out. And no sweat whatsoever about "dirtying" up the thread, the more documentation we have about issues like this gives great insight and acutally helps build a knowledge base of possible issues.

If there's ever an issue with the multis, It's nearly always really minor stuff like this to get up and running. Also, who knows what happened to the cable, maybe it happened in shipping or you just got a dodgy cable. When you get a minute, post up a photo of what you mean re: the plastic being "shaved off", can't picture it in my head.

Now, go enjoy some games!
 
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Probably nothing I can do about it - I couldn't get it off easily, so I used a soldering pick (cold) and wedged it in to pry off gently. The plastic is much softer than my tool (my mistake) so it cut through it like butter.
 

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I see. Shouldn’t be an issue functionally, is it the connector on the cable or the Multi PCB that’s causing the looseness you think?

If it’s the cable, just grab a replacement next time you order. If it’s the multi, I suggest just living with it and possibly taping or sticking it down before you put on the case for peace of mind?
 
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djsheep said:
I see. Shouldn’t be an issue functionally, is it the connector on the cable or the Multi PCB that’s causing the looseness you think?

If it’s the cable, just grab a replacement next time you order. If it’s the multi, I suggest just living with it and possibly taping or sticking it down before you put on the case for peace of mind?
Click to expand...
Yeah, just me being overly worried. It seems secure and if I never touch it again, SHOULD be fine..

Mitsurugi-w said:
Looks like that cable ws hand-crimped? Did you buy a longer than normal cable? Looks like there needs to be a bit more QC on the cables.
Click to expand...
Yes, I bought the longer cable. I didn't even think to crimp it further, thinking it was done as much as could be already.
 
Hello. I bought a CPS2 multiboard from a guy on Ebay, Darksoft multi was already installed and there were couple of games, which based on the date were added in 2018.. First when I started up the kit, there where a few glitches present in every game / see below/ I took the boards appart, put them together, they went away, everything was working fine.. Until I removed the SD card, reformatted it, put the latest base pack on it and when I turned it back on, first there were broken, still images and when I flashed in a new game, all went good, except there was no restart like before and the images stayed on the screen.

As second attempt I cleaned the contacts, tried it again, but this time the only thing I get is a white screen. When I start to flash a game, the screen disappears but when the flashing is done and I get the All ok, have fun message, the white screen comes back.

Can anybody help me out? Did the motherboard gave up on me or is this a formatting problem?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
IMG_20210630_100220.jpg
 

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Could be that the boards aren’t together tight enough.

Also perhaps open up the board to see if anything has come loose?

Did the multi factory who sold it to you on eBay offer any support?
 
Nope, no support. Opened both boards no leakage whatsoever, contacts are ok too. In the meanwhile I found a thread here, a guy also had problems with the kit booting to white screen and someone suggested him to download certain pack under a provided link, since it has a mandatory key file.. Will try that one too, hope it fixes the issue.
 
Anselmo said:
did you make sure to format the card as a FAT32 ? What size GB is the card?
Click to expand...
Yes, I did. It is a 8GB Transcend. The ROMs preloaded on it were working, but after I updated them to the latest pack I get a white screen every time. I am going to get a 16 or 32GB card, since I went throught every possible scenario.

However, this might be useful: when I turn the A board by itself, I get a white screen as well.
 
Go back to previous working files and just add the 2-3 extra games that interest you with a windows drag+drop.

It's clearly something related to the files or microSD.
 
After 16 hours of buggering around, I finally made it work: now it has all 65 games from the Base Roll Up Pack, with a new 16GB Verbatim Class 10 SDHC card.. However.. I am really concerned that the A board is faulty... As mentioned before, I was getting the white screen even then when the B board was removed and I wasn't able to access the Test Menu or at least I couldn't see it.

I tried all the combinations: A boad without case+B board cased, A cased + B without case, both cased, both uncased.. At the end I went back to the both cased scenario and tried to rotate the unit with applying pressure at the contact points, turning it on and off and after half an hour of fiddling, suddenly I had a clear picture with sound.

I really don't know what to do.. Should I ask for a partial refund /one of the screw-threads on the top case of the B board is broken as well, I guess it could also cause the contact problems/ or should I ask the seller to send me a new A board.

Thanks in advance.
 
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