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DARKSOFT CPS2 Multikit: Instructions and videos (old version till 10.2020)

Darksoft said:
Are you sure that you used the right FW for your version of the multi? I would remove that resistor, yes.
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Yeah I was first batch of cps2 multi kits way back in 2015, so I used the pre 2020 kit bios. I don't have the resistor , so I guess I am good there (must have read it backwards, thought it was saying I needed it :O).
 
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Mitsurugi-w said:
Pretty sure it's needed on -4 and -3 pcbs for key writing.
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Found another post saying, "75ohm resistor needs to be placed in series with the clock pin ( CN2 A31) " to also get some 3/4 boards to write. Maybe I will try adding both resistors, funnily enough when I was searching I found my post from 2018 when I originally like hey this doesn't work for me and the replies were mostly some 3/4 boards just wont work and I was like ok i give up lol. So at least I know where I was before :O
 
I have just bought an "old pre Champion Editon" Darksoft CPS2 kit from eBay as it was about half the price factoring in shipping/taxes here in the UK. I've watched a bunch of old install videos and think I've got a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, but have a few questions to double check if anyone can help:

  • I am intending to use this converted Hyper SF2 B board, which appears to be a V6, and seems to make it pretty straight forward. The PAL3 doesn't have the usual identifiers on it so may have been replaced, but can I assume if it's currently running HSF2 that it's a PAL G?
  • The 3.2 instructions say no jumpers need to be changed, is this still accurate?
  • I understand I need to "kill" the board first by removing the battery. As you can see at some point this was converted to a removable battery holder, so I assume I can just remove the battery and leave the holder in?
  • And finally, before I start, can anyone please confirm this is indeed a conversion? I bought it like this and the ROMs certainly look non-original, but the Hyper SF2 sticker on the case looks surprisingly OG! I don't want to inadvetently use a rare board as a donor.
Any help or advice appreciated, thanks!

IMG_2618.jpeg IMG_2619.jpeg
 
Sorry the image isn't very clear, here's a close up of the PAL:

Screenshot 2025-01-02 at 19.12.13.png

It may well be aftermarket considering the board is a conversion.
 
100% a conversion with encrypted ROMs

Factory HSF2 uses a daughterboard with SIMMs on it like Progear

To answer your questions:

- Yes that will be a PAL G
- No jumpers need to be changed since it is already configured for max memory space
- Remove battery, short EXC5 after removal

Once you have done that you should be good to go
 
xodaraP said:
100% a conversion with encrypted ROMs

Factory HSF2 uses a daughterboard with SIMMs on it like Progear

To answer your questions:

- Yes that will be a PAL G
- No jumpers need to be changed since it is already configured for max memory space
- Remove battery, short EXC5 after removal

Once you have done that you should be good to go
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Even on the earliest CPS2 multi boards, the jumpers never had any effect to begin with. What the jumpers do is select the functionality of the PIN 32 between A20 (27C322) or byte (27C160). That does not affect the multi at all.
 
l_oliveira said:
Even on the earliest CPS2 multi boards, the jumpers never had any effect to begin with. What the jumpers do is select the functionality of the PIN 32 between A20 (27C322) or byte (27C160). That does not affect the multi at all.
Click to expand...

I know the jumpers change the size of the ROMs and you needed to set on the original version of the multi, but the CE pulled pin 32 out of circuit
 
OK my kit arrived today and I'm going to attempt installation tonight, exciting! I have one more question, the seller doesn't know which firmware it has. Am I reading correctly that the oldest firmware will ONLY play decrypted ROMs, and the newer (2017+) firmware will ONLY play encrypted ROMs but requires 4 extra wires soldering?

I ideally want to try the most basic install first with no soldering just to check it works, I may "upgrade" to encrypted ROMs later, but to start with I'm happy with decrypted if it means no soldering. So I want to know what behaviour I should expect if I just put decrypted ROMs on there to start with.

Again this is for the pre 2020 non-Champion Edition version, exactly how old it is I don't know though.
 
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You are correct that the earliest firmware will only play decrypted ROMs. The later firmware will play both encrypted and decrypted sets assuming you have the key writing wires in place

If you put decrypted ROMs on there with no key writing wires and no reset wire soldered, the expected behaviour will be to see a black screen or screen filled with garbage initially

You should see a game name on the LCD selector and be able to scroll through the game list with the buttons on the selector.

Once you select something it will say “Flash Writing” for about 20 seconds, then say “All Done, Have Fun”

You will then need to power cycle the board and it will run the game you just flashed
 
Success! It was reasonably straight forward, I found the hardest part of installtion was attaching the small joining board, the pins didn't quite line up right so I had to push to the side a little to get it in, was relieved when it finally popped in place. On first boot the sound was corrupted, but after reseating the A & B boards all was good.

I still don't know what firmware version it has, any way to tell? I'm happy with decrypted ROMs for now but may update the firmware (if it needs it) and add the extra wires later now I know it works.

Also even after shaving a post off the top case, it still won't fit back on. It seems to be the height of the LCD cable. I have seen some people cut the top plastic off theirs, but I was wondering if anyone knows what type of cable this is, if it's standard I might be able to find a lower profile one or even a right angle adapter to put it sideways?

I then need to figure out what to do with the LCD, I don't want to just leave it hanging. I assume cutting a window in the top case is frowned upon, what's the best 3D printed option these days?

Anyway I'm very happy with it so far, I'm mainly just relieved it works and I haven't wasted a working B board. Thanks all for your advice.
 

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Great work on the installation! Glad it’s all up and running

With the cable, have it so it’s coming straight out of the connector and there’s no fold on the top like in your photo and then route it to the front since it will be going the wrong way

You will have more room for the fold to change the direction when you don’t have the IDC connector increasing the height

I would recommend routing it so that it’s over the top of the multi PCB in case someone ever pulls on it/the LCD falls off a table or something so it doesn’t damage anything the cable might be wrapped around
 
Just to make sure there is no confusion because my wording wasn’t the best: the direction you have the LCD cable in the photo is correct

Turn the cable around from there and route it to the front panel out through the holes used for the interlink
 
Sorry silly question, but how do you turn the cable around if it only has a notch on one side? It won't go in the other way
 
I found some discussion about sound distortion on earlier boards, and a fix required to the U34 chip (either a PCB or just wires.) It doesn't look like my board has either of these, I haven't noticed any distortion yet but I haven't been listening for it either. Can anyone tell if my board would be effected from the serial number?

IMG_6625.jpeg IMG_6626.jpeg
 
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