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Darksoft

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I just opened ds mvs multi, put the game on the sd card and tried to put it in mvs multi, but I am very embarrassed.. Even if the sd card is inserted, it is not fixed..-_-;; It keeps popping out... Is it bad?
All the MVS Multi are tested before being sent. The last batch has obviously the latest firmware and menu. Obviously if we had detected any problem with the microSD we would have fixed it before shipping.
Was the package in good shape when you received it?
Are you able to change the microSD slot for another one? 1
I could send one microSD slot to you or you can get it locally if you don't want to wait. Both options are better than sending back the MVS Multi.
PM me so we can discuss how to fix this.
 

mdtt77

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1. mvs Motherboard mv1F erase the jamma part with an eraser and reconnect it. As soon as it starts, the metal slug 3 (slot1) which has an error runs without error, but the graphic is broken as shown in the picture.

2. In this state, slot 2 / slot 3 runs without problem (no green error window)

3. Go to the menu and change all the games from slots 1 to 3 in the game list and run

4. Green error window error occurs again (last blade 2, kof95, kof96, kof2000, etc.)

5. Turn off the power once in error state and run again. If an error starts to occur, the error continues unconditionally.

6. Turn off the power once, the screen does not appear (black screen), only the menu song is played.

7. Is the problem with the ROM file or what is the problem... This is the newly ordered mvs multi.
 

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mdtt77

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MV1F --> MV1C change

The error was severe on 1F, so an additional 1C was purchased and tested.


1.MV1F (uni bios4.0 / 5.04v voltage)

2.MV1C (original bios / 5.12v voltage)

The result of changing from 1F to 1C is that it works very well!!+.+

In 1C, there are no errors except for rebooting because the black screen does not turn over even after a while after replacing all three slot games once.

I'm curious if 1F can't even be on the mvs ds multi board sold this time
 

ekorz

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@mdtt77 did you calibrate that cheap voltmeter on your harness? maybe you’re under-powering it. Use a proper multimeter.

Also you should adjust your power to be 5v whenever you switch pcbs.
 

mdtt77

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@mdtt77 did you calibrate that cheap voltmeter on your harness? maybe you’re under-powering it. Use a proper multimeter.

Also you should adjust your power to be 5v whenever you switch pcbs.

Did you tell me that this applies to the MV1F? Please tell me what the name of the part in the picture is. Is there a link to buy it?
 

ekorz

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@mdtt77 I am saying that your voltmeter perhaps is not accurate unless you calibrated it. The voltmeter you photographed (here) is on your jamma harness, showing you 5.12v on your MV1C. The photo above is the back-side of your voltmeter. Measure voltage with a real multimeter, then turn that resistor on your voltmeter so it displays a calibrated voltage.

I'm suggesting that your reading of 5.12 may be wrong. It probably is wrong., the question is how much. If it is actually lower you may be under-powering your boards and causing issues with the MV1F. The MV1F draw is greater than the MV1C, so 5.12 may actually be 4.90v or something tolerable there.

Additionally I'm also saying you should ALWAYS adjust your power supply when you change pcbs. The goal is for the pcb to receive 5.0v, no more no less. The reading at the jamma edge is close but not perfect, so many people calibrate a voltmeter then adjust the power to show ~5.05v at the jamma edge and assume .05v drops before the chips.

1. Get a real multimeter
2. Plug in any pcb, turn on your cabinet
3. Measure voltage at the jamma edge with the multimeter
4. Adjust the voltage at the power supply so that the multimeter shows 5.00v on the 5v line
5. Turn the resistor on the back side of your voltmeter to show 5.00v. (Calibrating it)
6. Anytime you change pcbs, re-adjust the power supply so the voltmeter is now showing 5.00v (or a little higher)
 
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mdtt77

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@mdtt77 I am saying that your voltmeter perhaps is not accurate unless you calibrated it. The voltmeter you photographed (here) is on your jamma harness, showing you 5.12v on your MV1C. The photo above is the back-side of your voltmeter. Measure voltage with a real multimeter, then turn that resistor on your voltmeter so it displays a calibrated voltage.

I'm suggesting that your reading of 5.12 may be wrong. It probably is wrong., the question is how much. If it is actually lower you may be under-powering your boards and causing issues with the MV1F. The MV1F draw is greater than the MV1C, so 5.12 may actually be 4.90v or something tolerable there.

Additionally I'm also saying you should ALWAYS adjust your power supply when you change pcbs. The goal is for the pcb to receive 5.0v, no more no less. The reading at the jamma edge is close but not perfect, so many people calibrate a voltmeter then adjust the power to show ~5.05v at the jamma edge and assume .05v drops before the chips.

1. Get a real multimeter
2. Plug in any pcb, turn on your cabinet
3. Measure voltage at the jamma edge with the multimeter
4. Adjust the voltage at the power supply so that the multimeter shows 5.00v on the 5v line
5. Turn the resistor on the back side of your voltmeter to show 5.00v. (Calibrating it)
6. Anytime you change pcbs, re-adjust the power supply so the voltmeter is now showing 5.00v (or a little higher)
There is no potentiometer on the PCB behind the voltmeter of the Jamma harness in the picture I told you. ㅠ.ㅠ Is it right to increase the low pressure of the new netcity?
 

ekorz

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I’ve never seen one without a way to adjust it. In any case they are cheap and not to be trusted without confirming they are accurate. Use a multimeter. Adjust your power supply for each pcb.
 

mdtt77

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I am playing multi mvs without problem with mv1c, but I am currently using the original bios. Will there be problems when switching to unibios 4.0?
 

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UPDATE Feb 25th 2019



Bus #4 VROM: Just concatename "058-v1.v1"? + "058-v2.v2"? + "058-v3.v3"? into "vroma0"

Bus #5 CROM: Here you need to word_swap the files and concatenate. Do it in pairs using the script attached. You will need to edit the file to adjust input and output names. First process "058-c1.c1"?+"058-c2.c2"? into "out1.bin", then "058-c3.c3"?+"058-c4.c4"? into "out2.bin", then "058-c5.c5"?+"058-c6.c6"? into "out3.bin". Once you've obtained the 3 files, just concatenate into a big file and rename to "crom0"
@Mitsurugi-w I don't get this last part. I got two .c files .c1 and .c2. SO in the python file i change the two input1 and input2 files? Do I need to insert the whole path? If I execute the file nothing really happens...

input1 = open("ngcdtdd0.c1","rb")
input2 = open("ngcdtdd0.c2","rb")
out1 = open("ccrom0","wb")
while True:
data1 = input1.read(2)
if not data1: break
data2 = input2.read(2)
if not data2: break
out1.write(data1)
out1.write(data2)
out1.close()
 

Darksoft

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@Mitsurugi-w I don't get this last part. I got two .c files .c1 and .c2. SO in the python file i change the two input1 and input2 files? Do I need to insert the whole path? If I execute the file nothing really happens...
the best is if you call the file from a CMD window so you can see the error being shown.

If you have configured everything properly, you don't need to include the path, just change the filenames for input and output and you should be good.
 

16bitgium

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the best is if you call the file from a CMD window so you can see the error being shown.

If you have configured everything properly, you don't need to include the path, just change the filenames for input and output and you should be good.
OK but even when this works I can't get the ROM to be added to the menu. How do I do that? The game is available for patron supporters so I can't just share the rom:
https://www.patreon.com/blastar/posts
 

Darksoft

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If you want to add a new game that is not supported yet by the menu, just replace the files inside any other folder. That's the fastest solution until a new menu is available.
 

ArsInvictus

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I just received a new MVS darksoft multicart and installed it in my Neo-Geo cab with 4 slot board. It is working, but I am getting "sparkly" spots in the graphics that move around randomly. I don't get these spots with either of the 2 other original Neo Geo carts that I have installed in the machine. I've also tried swapping slots between the Darksoft and the other carts, and installing the Darksoft cart with no other carts installed, but I have the same issue regardless. Any suggestions?
 

ArsInvictus

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Which BIOS do you have?
I just got the cab and think it is the stock bios. The board just has MVH Slot 4 written on it. Is there a way for me to confirm the bios version?

Here is a shot of the Darksoft About menu:

IMG_3135.jpeg


I've tried capturing the flickering spots in the games but they seem to flicker too fast for the camera to capture it properly, I might be able to take a video if you need that though.
 

Darksoft

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I just got the cab and think it is the stock bios.
Do you see the UNIBIOS Logo when it boots? If not, you have a stock BIOS.

Most probably is a power issue. Are you able to check with a multimeter how many volts go to the cart? and in the jamma connector?
 

ArsInvictus

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Do you see the UNIBIOS Logo when it boots? If not, you have a stock BIOS.

Most probably is a power issue. Are you able to check with a multimeter how many volts go to the cart? and in the jamma connector?
Yes, it's a stock bios. I spoke with Joe at HighScoreSaves and he recommended I check the voltage. I ordered a multimeter and it should arrive Wednesday. Once I check the voltage and adjust it to 5V (if necessary) I will let you know if it resolved the issue.

Thanks!
 

ArsInvictus

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Ok, using the multimeter I experimented with voltages from 5-5.2 but it didn't make any difference to the graphical issues. Any other suggestions?
 
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