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Documenting Nanao ms8-33 Autosync 15/24khz.

Mrhide

Mrhide

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All right. This is "picture documentation" on the elusive 32 inch Nanao ms8-33k that the internet seems to have never seen.
(edit scratch that! it was in Irem's Maddona 33 (https://wiki.himuland.eu/Bornes/Irem/madonna_33 and it does say 33" (15/24 kHz) (Nanao MS8-33) ). It makes sense since IREM = NANAO at the time)

I have 2 of them, from a Konami Hang Pilot where they were used for MEDIUM resolution.

for future searches
NANAO HV board 05A00514E1 05T00959 NECKBOARD 5B00753 05U02057 PCB-DEF 05A00515E1-5T00960- adjustment board 05U02056 remote board 05B00752C1 Mitsubishi M79KKZ11X tube
IMG_0750.jpeg
IMG_0751.jpeg


it's a 3 board system with, looking from the back, the power supply on the left, the HV at the bottom and the DEF board on the right
IMG_0752.jpeg


"PCB-DEF" board (drives yoke vertical and horizontal, HOT = 2SC4288A, recommended replacement : FJL6920 )
IMG_0743.jpeg


Power supply board
IMG_0742.jpeg


Thanks to the manual from the MS2932, TP901 is the B+ test point and sure enough, they kept the same numbering here. I don't know if it should also be 110V.
The pot to change it is in VR90A blue with the white silicon goop on it, on the power supply board.
Without chancgng caps it measures 196v dc. (That pretty high?)

IMG_0741.jpeg



High Voltage board
IMG_0753.jpeg


which include 2 small boards, one being a DF PCB (dual focus) and the other a "video pcb" board which amplifies and drives the RGB to the neck board
IMG_0754.jpeg
IMG_0755.jpeg


neck board

IMG_0720.jpeg
 
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so it is indeed a 15/24 monitor, auto switching

IMG_0687.jpeg


Puzznic above works but not all 15khz games have the same sync i guess.. or my monitor has issues identifying the 15/24 Hsync cause here's tekken 3:

IMG_0690.jpeg
 
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Must investigate Taito sync signal cause a lot of them are working.

from mame:

Puzznic
VSync - 55.8268Hz \ possibly sync/PCB fault, had to adjust
HSync - 14.7739kHz / h/v syncs on monitor to get a stable picture

Heavy unit
VSync : 58Hz
HSync : 15.59kHz

IMG_0707.jpeg



Oh and removing the hhold 24k didn’t help forcing 15

IMG_0692.jpeg
 
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Well changing the caps did one thing: it blew up the HOT!

I replaced it and we're back at square one :

- the 15/24 auto switch has issues and needs to be stronger
- the colors are weak. Where's @BuddyC when you need him?!
 
Hola! You rang, good sir?

I have oo experience with this chassis, but looks like you can do lots of fun with that adjustment board. I guess you have already adjusted RGB gain and Cut off? Tube doesn’t look worn out based on your pics, but I would recommend to test it with a rejuvinator if you have one available. RGB guns could use some “motivation”…
 
BuddyC said:
Hola! You rang, good sir?

I have oo experience with this chassis, but looks like you can do lots of fun with that adjustment board. I guess you have already adjusted RGB gain and Cut off? Tube doesn’t look worn out based on your pics, but I would recommend to test it with a rejuvinator if you have one available. RGB guns could use some “motivation”…
Click to expand...

hehe ! yes I rang thank you for answering : ya I tried everything and still no go. thanks for confirming that I need to schedule my rejuvinator body to come over and see if that helps. Will let you know.
 
well @BuddyC the problem is not the tube : all colors are in daaa greeeen. on both screens.
at least this is ruled out, the investigation continues…

IMG_0818.jpeg
 
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Possibly something wrong on the "PCB video" board? Considering it affects all colors, try replacing the amp, M51387P. It's the same amp as on the MS9.

You can also check the resistors connected to pin 14 (contrast) and pin 16 (brightness) on the amp.
 
nem said:
Possibly something wrong on the "PCB video" board? Considering it affects all colors, try replacing the amp, M51387P. It's the same amp as on the MS9.

You can also check the resistors connected to pin 14 (contrast) and pin 16 (brightness) on the amp.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming it: i actually came to the same conclusion yesterday:


IMG_0834.jpeg



and another issue that I am chasing is the 15/24 autosync : it's "flaky" ... some board work and some don't. some game will be ok in some section and will loose the sync in others...
I'm checking franck's schematics for hints since it is "similar" but not the same.

any hints welcome on that part as well
 
Received,
1767877920411.png

removed, replaced,( This was one of the easiest chip to remove with the hakko desoldering gun. Probably because of these nice big pads only on one side.)
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no changes :(
1767878071425.png


*sigh* good night
 
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The longuer the problem, the dummer the solution
The ground and sync were reversed in the connector !!! X/ ALWAYS check the connector!! I even joked about it in the beginning of my last debug session.
I feel like an idiot. But a happy idiot.

Ps That also explain the sync issue i was having eh!! 🙄 What's weirder is that these taito board "worked"!!

IMG_1227.jpeg


A line of the above, on the scope

IMG_1224.jpeg


I should now probably measure the B+ on the one I didn't touch and make sure the one I played with is similar.
 
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@Mrhide Edit: Nvm. Forgot you sold the Hang Pilot board years ago. Memory is very hazy here. At the very least you got those monitors working great.
 
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Hey any chance you could get yoke readings for this? Found one of these chassis on the Chinese marketplaces for cheap and debating if it's useful for anything.

Edit: or if someone needs this chassis for some reason, let me know and I'll send you the link.
 
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Mrhide said:
Must investigate Taito sync signal cause a lot of them are working.

from mame:

Puzznic
VSync - 55.8268Hz \ possibly sync/PCB fault, had to adjust
HSync - 14.7739kHz / h/v syncs on monitor to get a stable picture

Heavy unit
VSync : 58Hz
HSync : 15.59kHz

IMG_0707.jpeg



Oh and removing the hhold 24k didn’t help forcing 15

IMG_0692.jpeg
Click to expand...
I got puzznic and cannot sync it !
 
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