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Double Dragon.

I also had Xodarap test a few boards with the Negatron I use on my supergun, which is rated at 0.5A but it can deliver slightly more, and all his -5V boards worked.
 
Exactly.. :) I've never measured any board pulling more than a few mA - https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/PCB_Power_Consumption

Seems to be this myth going around that you need 'massive' -5V..

Which board did you measure that pulls 0.5A?
I also ran across this (which should probably be consolidated with the other board power wiki page):
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/List_of_JAMMA_PCB's_that_require_-5_volts

The largest JAMMA PSUs I know of are +5v @ 16A, +12v @ 4A and -5v @ 1A. Surprisingly little info on actual draw and power specs even over at KLOV. The Sanwa SWN-7F everybody seems to love appears to be +5v @ 7A,+12v @ 1A and -5v @ 1A.
 
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Jamma_Extension_finger.png
Jamma_Extension_edge.png
 
Just a few quick tidy ups and both PCBs will be done.

I'll order them and the associated parts mid next week, pay day, as I'm short on cash at the moment. Once they arrive I'll test everything and all going well, release the Gerber files and instructions on how to build your own.

Should call it the DarkSoft Jamma Extension seeing how it was a community effort.
 
I'll no doubt have a few PCBs spare as you need to order in lots of 10. People will need to source their own ATX and IDC cables though.
 
Sign me up for 2 sets of PCB’s then if they are left ;)
 
I can probably order supplies and sell DIY kits for around cost plus shipping to USA guys when the gerbers are released if that's ok.
That would be great!

Parts count is pretty light:

2 x angled 24 pin ATX
2 x angled 34 pin IDC
1 x 56 pin jamma edge
1 x length 34 pin IDC ribbon cable
1 x male 24 pin ATX connector
1 x length 24 pin ATX extension cable, male plug both ends (upside down from each other)

The ATX cabling will require some manual labour, in that the female connector on one end will need to be swapped over to a male connector. If you use a pin removal tool, you will be able to easily remove the female plug and slot in a male one. No crimping at least!

I just want to wait and have the PCBs in hand before publicly releasing the files, just to ensure everything works as planned.
 
The ATX cabling will require some manual labour, in that the female connector on one end will need to be swapped over to a male connector. If you use a pin removal tool, you will be able to easily remove the female plug and slot in a male one. No crimping at least!
The pins are the same for both male and female connectors?
 
I would suggest 3d printed casing in option for proper handling without pressing connectors, sure not everyone would buy one but I would
 
The ATX cabling will require some manual labour, in that the female connector on one end will need to be swapped over to a male connector. If you use a pin removal tool, you will be able to easily remove the female plug and slot in a male one. No crimping at least!
The pins are the same for both male and female connectors?
Son of a gun! No, they're not, male and female pins.

God damn it I'm cursed to crimp.

Unless there's a male PCB mount AYX connector?
 
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I can't seem to find them on Aliexpress strangely enough, but I have found one that suits. It's a 24 pin to 10+14 pin with all male connectors, meaning the 10+14 pin housings can be removed and replaced with 24 pin.
 
One of the best looking JAMMA extenders I've seen are from this Chinese seller on Taobao but its pretty difficult to by from him and his English is poor so can't sell outside of the platform.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...41589MtxfIl&id=555605065631&scene=taobao_shop

He has a bunch of really good looking arcade and RGB related products.
Holy crap that's beautiful. I need to find me a way to buy from him...
Holy crap indeed. A lot of that stuff looks like a work of art, never mind the photography.
From a technical perspective, I like that design from Jasen a lot and agree it's a design that should be copied.
I agree, a flexible PCB option would be a good option, especially for those things like a 6" flex run stress relief.
Ya know, I have an international trader friend that flies back and forth from Hong Kong, China, and all things south Pacific. I'll ping her and see if she can assist with procurement of something like these. Thanks for pointing this out.
I'll run this Chinese across her, and see what she translates.
If theres a way to get a bulk order, If there's strong enough interest, perhaps I could do a buy and work from there.

His shop is pretty rad.
https://axunwork.taobao.com/?spm=2013.1.1000126.3.7fe272c62i9LK5

EDIT: WHOLY SCHNIKIES!!! THIS SUPERGUN!!!
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...d1589tIc8TJ&id=538473575145&scene=taobao_shop

TB2vLHErf5TBuNjSspmXXaDRVXa_!!923018680.jpg
 
I would make both designs for proto and compare the results before deciding which route is the best.

If sourcing is already a problem I can't imagine how it can be sustainable.

6 pins molex + 50 pins IDC widely available if it works well on screen it's a no brainer.

Inside my toshiba monitor which is a really good quality one the video cable between the chassis and the vga connector is a small thin gauge JST and it works just fine, so I wouldn't state 24pin is mandatory without testing more economic/efficient alternatives.

I also use audio mini jack when I connect to my computer and no problem so far with wire gauge.

Maybe Jamma standard is overkill because it's intended to work with long run wiring inside cabinets.

This project is just a small extender as long as power is secured it should work fine.
 
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Some quick digging for cheap 150mm cables:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tripp-lite/N201-06N-YW/TL2086-ND/7696157
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...connectors/A3DDB-3406G/A3DDB-3406G-ND/1982667
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0451350801/WM16579-ND/6822679

All of the above are available in 150mm/300mm/1m variants, which should cover everybody I think.

The pre-made Molex 8-pin Mini-Fit Jr has enough pins for 5V to be 2x 16 AWG, which for 10A over a 1m run should be a ~3% drop, so good enough I'd imagine. 1x16 AWG in a 6-pin Mini-Fit Jr is doable for 150mm/300mm runs, but probably under-specded? Using all the leftover pins in a 60 pin IDC cable seems to be not enough copper for power?
 
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