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Vewlix panel overlays have a fancy reflective layer that is apparently difficult to reproduce.
At least on my blue and white Diamonds it's simply clear and showing the polished metal panel underneath, that reflective part is the panel, not the decal.
 
that reflective part is the panel, not the decal
Nope, that silver is part of the decal...
You can see it on my (unmounted) two player overlay around the joystick holes (I know it looks kinda white in the picture but its just the lighting its silver/metallic).
Same with the "VEWLIX" lettering in the top left.
7CABTX5.jpg
 
@rewrite tbh I didn't even read your comment. It's been brought up several times that people can't figure this out and I wanted to add my two cents.

Has anyone contacted Joe Szabo? His art is expensive but I can tell you his stuff is top notch. He owns his own print shop, maybe he can figure this out.
 
Vewlix panel overlays have a fancy reflective layer that is apparently difficult to reproduce.
At least on my blue and white Diamonds it's simply clear and showing the polished metal panel underneath, that reflective part is the panel, not the decal.
On the F and L at least the silver is part of the overlay. I'm pretty sure @jassin000 can confirm. He's bought them straight from Taito, diamonds too I think.

Edit : I should refresh before commenting. Jassin was already on it.
 
@Cereth
I've been working on 2P CP to have it manufacture here. For large volume, it will be way cheaper. Someone from arcade otaku threw me off because he said the drawing needed an updated because the width was little bit wider. I printed out a 1:1 plexiglas (it was free) just to confirm the dimensions and concluded whoever vendor he used didn't follow the specification. I also measured everything and confirmed it matched with the drawing. You would be surprised not all vendors are equal. All repro I tried welded the studs instead of press fitting along with horrible tolerance issues.

IMG_2837.JPG
 
Id venture a guess that these might be like the aero panels where the silver backing it actually a very thin layer of aluminum.
 
These are my original 1 player blue and white Diamond panels. The dirt or rust or whatever is under the clear decal layer, and I figured I'd fuck it up worse trying to lift and clean it, so I left it.

So either that's the bare panel showing through, or they have a shiny layer but it's not actually ink and is physically separated enough to allow shit to get in there between the layers. That's why I assumed it was the panel, I could be totally wrong, it's not a lot to go on.

vewlix-dirty.jpg
 
@Cereth
I've been working on 2P CP to have it manufacture here. For large volume, it will be way cheaper. Someone from arcade otaku threw me off because he said the drawing needed an updated because the width was little bit wider. I printed out a 1:1 plexiglas (it was free) just to confirm the dimensions and concluded whoever vendor he used didn't follow the specification. I also measured everything and confirmed it matched with the drawing. You would be surprised not all vendors are equal. All repro I tried welded the studs instead of press fitting along with horrible tolerance issues.

IMG_2837.JPG
Yes, unfortunately not all will get it correct. You have make sure you specify everything. @FrancoB made CAD drawings from a 2P panel I had sent him, I had those made and the fabricator I used got them spot on from the cad drawing of course these were laser cut and with pressed fit studs/posts.

I need to get some custom panels made. My biggest hurdle right now is the artwork/overlays. Need to get those just right.
 
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So let's assume that's the case. From an aesthetic standpoint, not pure accuracy but just looking right, is there any reason to not just polish the metal panel and put a clear decal over it?

Only thing I can think of, and I'd need to do a little Photoshop overlaying, is that there are weld marks or something in the open shiny areas of the art.

Also, I don't think Alberto has that capability, or his Net City panels would use that tech and look better.
 
Yes, unfortunately not all will get it correct. You have make sure you specify everything. @FrancoB made CAD drawings from a 2P panel I had sent him, I had those made and the fabricator I used got them spot on from the cad drawing of course these were laser cut and with pressed fit studs/posts.
For sure. Vendor has an excuse if allowable tolerance is not specified. Shouldn't really matter if laser cut
 
These are my original 1 player blue and white Diamond panels. The dirt or rust or whatever is under the clear decal layer, and I figured I'd fuck it up worse trying to lift and clean it, so I left it.

So either that's the bare panel showing through, or they have a shiny layer but it's not actually ink and is physically separated enough to allow shit to get in there between the layers. That's why I assumed it was the panel, I could be totally wrong, it's not a lot to go on.
I have some of this sort of spotting on my FC panel as well.
Not sure what it is but I came to the same conclusion that it was best not to touch it.
 
weird...one of my vlx's is starting to get cloudy/oxidize under the joystick dust cover...i thought it was because moisture may have been left there from when i clean it...maybe getting a reproduction is better than oem
 
I don't personally trip off a little 'genuine arcade wear' on any of my cabs. I don't need perfect, I enjoy the little bits that tell a story of use. So I don't feel the need to replace mine. And I have no use for two player panels really.

But if I did want reproduction panels it seems to me it would be easiest to do polished bare panels, and then reverse print screen printed colors on a clear and durable decal material over it.

You would get the exact same authentic look if it was done properly, and it might be less susceptible to things getting between layers. And is one less exotic printing/cutting technique to worry about.

If you have any Alberto panels you know how nice the polished undersides of them look. That shining through the decal would look great imo.
 
Alright to keep things moving, I'm going to start accepting payments for the stools. I think the panels will take some time, and I am trying to beat out my departure date of Sept. 30, after which I will not be able to send international wires to the distributor, so it is probably best I collect everything I can before that to reduce any delays. I'll be sending PMs out.

Also, There are 10 TTX3s coming on the order. Listing for $250 each shipped. They are all Lord of Vermillion terminals, probably Toshiba drives. $200 if I can drop it inside one of the Vewlixes or something I guess. Does that sound reasonable? Let me know.
 
Alright closing stool orders. I did get a very small amount extra as backup since I guess they come in boxes of 5, not 4.

I'm going to open for poster frames if anyone wants them, B1 or B2. I currently have 40 B1 and 20 B2 on order. I was mainly just going to stock up on these, but if anyone's buying a cab, you can save on shipping and I'll just wrap it to a cab. Otherwise I want to say $20 tops to ship thru FedEx, but I haven't found a good supplier for boxes yet. If you're picking up a cab though pretty much I'll offer you a frame for $40 done and done. Let me know!
 
Alright closing stool orders. I did get a very small amount extra as backup since I guess they come in boxes of 5, not 4.

I'm going to open for poster frames if anyone wants them, B1 or B2. I currently have 40 B1 and 20 B2 on order. I was mainly just going to stock up on these, but if anyone's buying a cab, you can save on shipping and I'll just wrap it to a cab. Otherwise I want to say $20 tops to ship thru FedEx, but I haven't found a good supplier for boxes yet. If you're picking up a cab though pretty much I'll offer you a frame for $40 done and done. Let me know!
can you post some pictures of each.
 

Effective immediately, I no longer accept Zelle as a form of payment. As of August 2019 they started charging a fee for every transaction, and I don’t have yet an easy way to tell what that is. The whole point of it was that it was free, that is no longer the case.
 
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