Home Arcade System

[jassin000]

According to the LCD screens display... You are getting a interlaced signal, so changing the 240p/288p to 2x will have no effect.
You'll need to mess with the 480i settings.

AV1 via SCART and got both these games to work fine.

It should always be used FIRST, only if you can't get the game working with SCART/AV1 (75ohm sync) should you switch to HD15/AV3 (TTL sync).
This has always been a work around if you can't get AV1 to work, and is why I'm always bitching at you guys asking for the HD15 HATs and adapters...
Unless you have a F3 or other strange sync board YOU DON'T NEED IT and YOU SHOULDN'T USE IT!

 

[XtraSmiley]

According to the LCD screens display... You are getting a interlaced signal, so changing the 240p/288p to 2x will have no effect.
You'll need to mess with the 480i settings.

Yup, but as I said, I just dug the board out and tossed it on to prove it works with the HAS, I didn't dial shit in as I'm going to update the OSSC in a few weeks which will wipe all my settings.

I'm hoping you develop a optimal profile for arcade boards like FBX is doing for consoles!

EDIT: And I don't mean to sound harsh with this reply, I just mean, I didn't mess with any settings at all, it was literary whatever setting it defaults to when I turn it on, but you're 100% correct, I shouldn't even have taken a pic of the 2x screen as it's pointless! I also realize I forgot to even take a pic of my TV showing the game working, but trust me it was, I almost beat the USA level, almost...

 

[jassin000]

I'm hoping you develop a optimal profile for arcade boards like FBX is doing for consoles!

I've documented a few of my faves and the best settings I've discovered so far for these.
I should get a Excel file going with this information so I can easily share it.

 

[nem]

Not sure if everyone is aware, but Mr Driller 2 / G can output either 240p or 480i. The setting can be changed in the monitor test screen in the service menu. You have to press left and right IIRC.

 

[jassin000]

Mr Driller 2 / G can output either 240p or 480i.

That's good info nem, because interlaced is handled so poorly by the OSSC (iScan DVDO VP50/50Pro does a much better job) you'll get a better image by scaling the 240p setting.

Oh and in case anyone is wondering the VP50's include the Abit (ABT-102) fast deinterlace chip thats why its better.
The VP20/30 can have a card optionally installed containing this chip, but its become impossible to find today (I did locate one and the guy wanted 300$ for just the GD card).

The DVDO ABT-102 is a precision deinterlacing card, which will dramatically improve the 480i/576i deinterlacing performance of your iScan VP30 or VP20.
It eliminates many of the artifacts found in common deinterlacers to produce a smooth image, free of artifacts such as jagged edges and combing.

 

[XtraSmiley]

Not sure if everyone is aware, but Mr Driller 2 / G can output either 240p or 480i. The setting can be changed in the monitor test screen in the service menu. You have to press left and right IIRC.

Wow, awesome info, thank you! When I get back and want to kick it Mr. D style, I know what to do now!

 

[Chacranajxy]

I think the HAS 3.1 is just using the default settings, other than the controller mappings that I set. It's outputting via SCART to the OSSC, and I've tried plugging headphones into the 3.5mm jack on the HAS, but I'm still not getting any audio going that route, either. The OSSC is set to Line5x mode; haven't tried switching to line2x or anything a little more lenient. The weird thing is that there's no audio or video, though - I could understand the OSSC having video issues but still outputting sound... but nothing? Just kinda weird. The board was working fine before the seller sent it, and it was well-packed... so that, combined with the fact that the board is getting power has me pretty confused as to what's happening.
All other JAMMA boards I have work fine with these settings. Cave stuff, CPS-2 stuff, ZN-2 stuff, etc.

This really doesn't tell much, because the HAS settings could have changed during shipping or during case assembly, it's been almost two years?When you say you don't get audio, have you also tried to plug in the headphones or speakers to the HAS' 3.5mm jack output? If not, please do it, wait a moment for the attract mode sounds (unless it's disabled, then add coins instead).I used to own a Mr Driller 2 PCB and also know people who own it and it works just fine, however not sure if it's compatible with the OSSC (it should be, though - try changing H-PLL pre and post coast settings).

edit: The most important question that I should have asked earlier - does the OSSC lock the signal (the OSSC's LCD screen should display the refresh rate of the signal)? If it does, but you don't see anything on the screen, then it's a problem with your TV set.

My Mr. D 2 and Mr. D G PCBs both work great with the HAS and an OSSC. Once I get dug out a bit, I'll post the settings if that helps and no one has done it yet.

Actually, that would be super helpful.Haven't had much time to take a look at it, but I remembered that I didn't fiddle with the volume knob at all when I connected headphones to the 3.5mm jack on the HAS... tried that, and -- sound! Ok, so the board is fine.

As for the OSSC, all it's telling me is "NO SYNC". I'll tinker with it a bit this weekend.

OK, I aim to be helpful! Here is Mr. Driller G working with HAS 4.0 and OSSC. HAS is using AV3 with the 8pin din to the OSSC via VGA adapter (the same settings for Taito F3). Note that these are NOT optimal settings, just a quick get it locked for you to see it works. I have to dial everything back in when I get back home in two weeks, but I'm waiting to update the OSSC FW, which erases all the settings anyway.

Appreciate you doing all of that. I think AV3 might be the answer here; that's pretty much the only thing I haven't tried yet.

I haven't tried fiddling with the 240p/480i setting on the board either, but I know Mr. Driller 2 gives you the option. Wouldn't be surprised it the fix was as simple as that. I've got the manual scan, so maybe that's enough to navigate the service menu.

 

[jassin000]

I think AV3 might be the answer here; that's pretty much the only thing I haven't tried yet.

Wrong, set your board to 240p (480i should still work but don't use it) set the HAS JUST LIKE THIS...

Use a SCART cable with AV1.
Post a picture here of what the OSSC says on the LCD screen after you've done these things (I don't care about your TV yet, this is still troubleshooting I wana see what OSSC says).

 

[XtraSmiley]

Appreciate you doing all of that. I think AV3 might be the answer here; that's pretty much the only thing I haven't tried yet.
I haven't tried fiddling with the 240p/480i setting on the board either, but I know Mr. Driller 2 gives you the option. Wouldn't be surprised it the fix was as simple as that. I've got the manual scan, so maybe that's enough to navigate the service menu.

Make sure your HAS is on 75ohm and Csync is set to buffered and try AV1. The 240/480 doesn't matter yet, we need to get your board to sync first. If for some reason you don't have a SCART cable, you can try AV3, but then you need to put it on TTL and buffered or regen.

Sorry, I'm sure you posted all this, but can you tell us which HAS you have and also what firmware your OSSC is on?

 

[zionfarm]

Quick question for you guys. I have a HAS v3.2 and I believe I have an accessory that might be helpful for other folks with the v3.1
If someone needs this part please feel free to PM me.

 

[XtraSmiley]

That's useable on your HAS as well. It's for the OSSC and using AV3 input for certain systems, such as the Taito F3.

 

[zionfarm]

That's useable on your HAS as well. It's for the OSSC and using AV3 input for certain systems, such as the Taito F3.

Ahh I see thank you for the input as I didn't see a use for it. But since I have been getting into more arcade stuff I will hold on to it.

 

[jassin000]

Ahh I see thank you for the input as I didn't see a use for it.

Thats 100% correct!
Unless you have a F3 you DON'T have a use for it.

Make sure your HAS is on 75ohm and Csync is set to buffered and try AV1.

Buffered won't work with every PCB, in fact OSSC tends to dislike buffered/regenerated sync honestly (it also dislikes stripped syncs).
I recommend always starting with unprocessed, then moving to buffered and finally regenerated (but in that order, if it locks on one STOP your done).

If for some reason you don't have a SCART cable, you can try AV3, but then you need to put it on TTL and buffered or regen.

That statement is perfect as is.

These HAS settings, with a SCART cable and AV1 on the OSSC...

WILL work with 99.9% of the arcade PCBs on the market, in fact I challenge you to find the ones that it won't (I'm sure there are a few but they are very very rare ie I've only ever seen one F3).

Also keep in mind just because you don't see anything on the TV don't mean the HAS/OSSC combo isn't working... Look at the OSSC LCD screen.
If its displaying a sync rate, its working your display is the problem (buy a freesync BenQ/Asus PC monitor or a LG C9 OLED).

Something like this...

Is so close to 60.0Hz (59.91) that it should lock on even the most picky of HDMI sets.
This however...

Is so far away from 60.0Hz (its actually closer to 50Hz) it only works on a very select few displays (aka Freesync).
It's not HAS or OSSCs fault if you have a display too strict to sync anything but 60.0hz (all your ghetto cheap TVs basically fall into this category).

If you insist on using junk LCDs that only accept 60.0Hz, then you'll need a iScan DVDO VP30/50/50pro to buffer it to 60... Or you need a xRGB mini Framemeister (also buffers out to 60).
The cost of buffering is lag, and thats in addition to any lag already present in the screen (if its cheap, its already too high).

 

[BroadwayJose]

Is it possible to order a CPS2 kick harness and HD15 hat for the Taito F3? Really hoping these addons are not just available as a bundle with the HAS. Would like to use OSSC with the F3, didn't own one when I originally ordered my HAS.

 

[jassin000]

F3 only has what two games that need more than 3 buttons?
Anyway even if you wanted to play this abomination...

You'll need additional adapters, because F3 won't accept CPS2 style kicks (its actually like CPS1 style).
Get a JNX Raiden (converts CPS2 into Midway/CPS1/etc) in addition to the CPS2 kicks (but don't say I didn't tell you it would be a waste of money, that game sucks hard).

 

[XtraSmiley]

Make sure your HAS is on 75ohm and Csync is set to buffered and try AV1.

Buffered won't work with every PCB, in fact OSSC tends to dislike buffered/regenerated sync honestly (it also dislikes stripped syncs).I recommend always starting with unprocessed, then moving to buffered and finally regenerated (but in that order, if it locks on one STOP your done).

It will work with his Mr. Driller though, which is the one we're trying to trouble shoot and figure out if his HAS or his PCB is bad (or I guess, maybe the OSSC).

 

[jassin000]

It will work with his Mr. Driller though

If you stick with my above settings, you won't have to keep switching/tweaking all the time.
It will just work with 99.9% of arcade PCBs and you can go live your life/play some games.

Efficient and effective, why would you choose otherwise?
F3 is just weird, but its the ONLY one I've ever seen like this.
If you only own a F3 yea keep it in TTL, buffered and using AV3, for virtually everyone/thing else... 75ohm, unprocessed and using AV1.

I guess even IF you do own a F3 now... JunkerHQnet is recommending this mod to the OSSC.

It will alow you to still use AV1 (as the device was always intended) but process just TTL buffered sync via AV3 port.

"Remember to enable "OSSC AV3 use AV1 RGB" option with the affected systems, and disable for others. For Taito F3, don't forget to additionally increase H-PLL pre and post coast to 4."

See even the latest damn firmware supports this, again this is how serious they are about you NOT using the HD15 port for 15khz video sources (it was designed for VGA ONLY, we used it for F3 as a work around that's IT).
The full description of the "bug" is as follows...

"TVP7002 digitizer chip in OSSC cannot reliably lock to 240p signal with non-TTL sync using constant even field indicator, i.e. an even field is signalled to be followed by another even field. Vast majority of 240p systems (and practically all 480p/720p/1080p sources) use constant odd field indicator to denote non-interlaced/progressive signal, but there are some rare exceptions like Taito F3 system (which also has other abnormalities in sync). The only way to get these working reliably with OSSC is to connect them to AV3 input using TTL-level sync for which TVP7002 uses slightly different sync processing that ignores field indicator. This arrangement might be cumbersome for some users and is not compatible with video LPF feature."

 

[BroadwayJose]

@jassin000 my intended use for the CPS2 harness would primarily be for CPS2 games but I'll still probably use it elsewhere. And I already have the F3 adapted to use a CPS2 style kick harness so yeah, I'll play those games also if the mood strikes me.

Also I'm not interested in modding my OSSC just for the F3 to work "as intended". I'll stick with the workaround method.

Anyways, @RGB I just want to know if I can purchase these items seperately.

 

[XtraSmiley]

It will work with his Mr. Driller though

If you stick with my above settings, you won't have to keep switching/tweaking all the time.It will just work with 99.9% of arcade PCBs and you can go live your life/play some games.

Efficient and effective, why would you choose otherwise?
F3 is just weird, but its the ONLY one I've ever seen like this.
If you only own a F3 yea keep it in TTL, buffered and using AV3, for virtually everyone/thing else... 75ohm, unprocessed and using AV1.

I guess even IF you do own a F3 now... JunkerHQnet is recommending this mod to the OSSC.

It will alow you to still use AV1 (as the device was always intended) but process just TTL buffered sync via AV3 port.

"Remember to enable "OSSC AV3 use AV1 RGB" option with the affected systems, and disable for others. For Taito F3, don't forget to additionally increase H-PLL pre and post coast to 4."

See even the latest damn firmware supports this, again this is how serious they are about you NOT using the HD15 port for 15khz video sources (it was designed for VGA ONLY, we used it for F3 as a work around that's IT).
The full description of the "bug" is as follows...

"TVP7002 digitizer chip in OSSC cannot reliably lock to 240p signal with non-TTL sync using constant even field indicator, i.e. an even field is signalled to be followed by another even field. Vast majority of 240p systems (and practically all 480p/720p/1080p sources) use constant odd field indicator to denote non-interlaced/progressive signal, but there are some rare exceptions like Taito F3 system (which also has other abnormalities in sync). The only way to get these working reliably with OSSC is to connect them to AV3 input using TTL-level sync for which TVP7002 uses slightly different sync processing that ignores field indicator. This arrangement might be cumbersome for some users and is not compatible with video LPF feature."

I don't disagree with you, BUT, like I said, it was showing him a quick and dirty way to test his Mr. Driller board since he asked for a month and no one chimed in with settings to help him out...

Also, instead of modding your OSSC, you could just run everything like the F3 set up.

Nah, just kidding, I know your MK1 doesn't work like that. Also, turns out, my Truxton and Outzone either.

 

[RGB]

@jassin000 No offence, but you're wrong on the AV3 and about the latest change in the OSSC firmware. Please see the OSSC schematic and you'll notice the reason the AV3 won't work for most consoles and isn't advised:
A) Schmitt trigger on the sync input, meaning it requires a digital, high amplitude signal (at least 2Vp-p).
B) No LPF.

The HAS can output a high amplitude signal (5Vp-p) and the newest version comes with a LPF and in this case the AV3 is almost just as good as AV1. I understand your experience might be different, it might be because your HAS3.0 handles the CSync quite differently than 1-2.1 and 3.1-4 versions.

About the latest OSSC firmware change, the mod described is just a handy way to have the LPF for systems that only work via the AV3, and also to make it easier for users so that they don't need a special video cable for the AV3.

Scart is good, but you demonize the AV3 a bit too much.