A little of both, the week I took these shots I was repainting my bathroom/using hole filler/plaster and sanding.
So, since you seem to be pretty familiar with this... I have a few pcbs that show the 54.xx Hz. They do display on my tv, a TCL 4k panel, but there is a lot of stuttering. Any thoughts?Thats 100% correct!Unless you have a F3 you DON'T have a use for it.Ahh I see thank you for the input as I didn't see a use for it.
Buffered won't work with every PCB, in fact OSSC tends to dislike buffered/regenerated sync honestly (it also dislikes stripped syncs).I recommend always starting with unprocessed, then moving to buffered and finally regenerated (but in that order, if it locks on one STOP your done).Make sure your HAS is on 75ohm and Csync is set to buffered and try AV1.
That statement is perfect as is.If for some reason you don't have a SCART cable, you can try AV3, but then you need to put it on TTL and buffered or regen.
These HAS settings, with a SCART cable and AV1 on the OSSC...
WILL work with 99.9% of the arcade PCBs on the market, in fact I challenge you to find the ones that it won't (I'm sure there are a few but they are very very rare ie I've only ever seen one F3).
Also keep in mind just because you don't see anything on the TV don't mean the HAS/OSSC combo isn't working... Look at the OSSC LCD screen.
If its displaying a sync rate, its working your display is the problem (buy a freesync BenQ/Asus PC monitor or a LG C9 OLED).
Something like this...
Is so close to 60.0Hz (59.91) that it should lock on even the most picky of HDMI sets.
Is so far away from 60.0Hz (its actually closer to 50Hz) it only works on a very select few displays (aka Freesync).
It's not HAS or OSSCs fault if you have a display too strict to sync anything but 60.0hz (all your ghetto cheap TVs basically fall into this category).
If you insist on using junk LCDs that only accept 60.0Hz, then you'll need a iScan DVDO VP30/50/50pro to buffer it to 60... Or you need a xRGB mini Framemeister (also buffers out to 60).
The cost of buffering is lag, and thats in addition to any lag already present in the screen (if its cheap, its already too high).
Thanks DS! Wasn't really fishing for a compliment on my collection when I tagged you (but I'll take it anyway).
They will appear a little jumpy yea, at least they do on mine.They do display on my tv, a TCL 4k panel, but there is a lot of stuttering. Any thoughts?
Thanks. I've also heard using the VGA port via a VGA hat from the HAS might help? Any thoughts on that?Thanks DS! Wasn't really fishing for a compliment on my collection when I tagged you (but I'll take it anyway).Rather I've been singing the praises of your work on the SF3-3rd version A throw patch... It's fantastic!
I guess I can understand tourney players not accepting what could be described as a enthusiast "hack" but for home use its golden.
They will appear a little jumpy yea, at least they do on mine.It's the lower than 60Hz, with no interpolation to draw faked transition frames you are seeing just how low it really is.They do display on my tv, a TCL 4k panel, but there is a lot of stuttering. Any thoughts?
You might try changing the scaling option, my TV/iScan only works with 3x mode... But if you can support 2x or 4x give it a try.
Won't make a difference.I've also heard using the VGA port via a VGA hat from the HAS might help? Any thoughts on that?
I mean if you already own high quality CRTs (like PVM/BVM's) yes that would be your best option.I'll try some stuff out but probably stick to the CRT for those odd ones.
That cable will work perfectly. I use the same cable for my setup with a SCART to component adapter.for the mini din will this cable work? I would be connecting it to a GSCART switch.
My HAS fits just fine on my CPS2 board using the LCD Holster. The voltage meter is a little hard to see but not impossible.
My HAS has the "VGA" (aka HD15) expansion HAT installed (makes it almost 2x taller).My HAS fits just fine on my CPS2 board using the LCD Holster.
You forget about PVM/BVM users who connect the HAS using a VGA->BNC cable (the easiest and the best way to do so).And NO... Unless you own a Taito F3 you don't NEED ONE.
Aye!! Fixed it
Hi RGB, you mean that if I connect the HAS to a PVM (or a BVM) and a Taito F3 I don't need the HD15 adapter?You forget about PVM/BVM users who connect the HAS using a VGA->BNC cable (the easiest and the best way to do so).And NO... Unless you own a Taito F3 you don't NEED ONE.
Also, I'll say it again - the newest HAS comes with a LPF and compatibility via the OSSC's HD-15 is great. You can run the most popular PCBs (CPS1, CPS2, CPS3, MVS, ST-V, F3, Konami) without a hitch.