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Home Arcade System

@nonosto - I recommend you buy a Mean Well MWP-606 or SUZO 42PP0606, the best PSU I've tested so far. The metal cage is really sturdy, build quality is top notch and the PSU doesn't get hot.

I will offer or at least release STL files for a cover for the Mean Well MWP-606/SUZO 42PP0606. It will be screwed to the unused COM terminal to hold the cover in place.

PSU connection:

17457604109_4e3dd97f1e_z.jpg


I include the harness that goes between the PSU and HAS, you just need to buy the cable that goes between the PSU and the wall socket. Standard computer PSU cable will do, just cut and strip it. Even better would be an IEC cable with a switch - https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/computer-power-cord-with-switch.php
Avoid cheap Chinese PSUs and power cables.
 
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I will try to add fork in my power cable. So what's fork and soler wire can I use.
 
I want to touch on the subject of ATX PSUs for powering the arcade stuff in case you wonder why I opt for the arcade dedicated PSUs instead.

ATX PSUs typically have high power rating, like 250-500W, that's what most people will use, because they have a spare one after upgrading their PC, or just find one cheap. Problem is, arcade PCBs don't require that much juice, you'd be hard pressed to find a game that needs more than 50W (perhaps games from early-mid 80ies), most will require 10-30W, which is like nothing for the ATX PSU. A short circuit that has some small resistance (i.e, +5V/+12V isn't shorted directly to GND) won't trip the PSU's short circuit protection immediately. Such short will basically be seen as load, so the PSU will push more amps before it detects the short (especially a cheap ATX PSU). A 250W or more can push a lot of amps, in result it can fry the PCB, or even melt the wires (depending on their insulation rating).
 
@RGB nice. you should add all that info about the meanwell and atx’s to your first post. I feel like half of this thread is “add me to the list” and the other half is “what psu should I use”... :thumbup:

If you don’t want to copy paste it you could at least link to the posts.
 
I have to disagree on the topic of ATX power supplies.

A short to ground, the most common and likely thing to go wrong, will most definitely engage the shut off protection circuit, instantly.

The higher wattage is due to the ATX outputting more types of voltage, not just two or three like an arcade PSU. The individual voltage ratings are very similar to the output of a typical arcade PSU, e.g. 15A 5V, 1A 12V. In any event the arcade board will only draw upon what it needs and you're much better off having more current than required rather than not enough.
 
Frank_fjs said:
A short to ground, the most common and likely thing to go wrong, will most definitely engage the shut off protection circuit, instantly.
Click to expand...
I agree on that of course, but short to GND is not always the case, you can have a damaged IC on the PCB game that will have a few Ohms resistance. Not saying that arcade PSUs got better OCP and SCP, but they can't source that much current as the ATX PSU.
 
For me, it isn't solely a matter of ATX versus arcade PSU, it comes down to the quality of the individual unit itself, be that ATX or arcade.

ATX have the 5V sense line to detect issues, which can be advantageous, whereas arcade PSUs have the benefit of adjustable voltage. As far as safety is concerned, I really don't see issue using ATX as an alternative and certainly wouldn't be running my boards with one of I felt it were unsafe.
 
Today I called to an official Meanwell distributor, it seems that the MWP-606 is no longer produced :( . They suggested me the TP-100A as a replacement, but it has 100mV ripple. In other forum I've been recommended the MWP-602 that looks very similar but I can't find if it's obsolete or not.

I've sent a mail to a Suzo distributor in UK looking for the SUZO 42PP0606. If you could say along with the recommended PSUs where to buy them from Europe it would be very nice. Currently I'm using a RT-125A from Mouser, it works fine and has good capacitors (Rubycon and Chemi-con) but also a small jamicon near the output (not very good). I'd like to buy a better one with less ripple.
 
It's included with the HAS, 1st post of this thread:
RGB said:
HAS V3.2 supergun - 122 EUR [temporarily unavailable] (the set includes a HAS unit; a set of accessories - 2x laser cut 4mm acrylic covers (for top and bottom), a set of screws, and spacers (the "case" comes unassembled); a power supply cable - high quality 45cm long 18AWG cables; 6pin connector on one end, M3.5 fork terminals on the other end that is suitable for arcade power supplies)
Click to expand...
 
I think a 3D printed cover for the harness connectors for those sweet Mean Well and SUZO PSU would be nice...
...translation: I'm not into 3D modeling, if anyone would make and share such a 3D model I'd be immensely grateful :D

Thank you in advance.
Best regards.

Locutus73
 
RGB said:
@nonosto - I recommend you buy a Mean Well MWP-606 or SUZO 42PP0606, the best PSU I've tested so far. The metal cage is really sturdy, build quality is top notch and the PSU doesn't get hot.

I will offer or at least release STL files for a cover for the Mean Well MWP-606/SUZO 42PP0606. It will be screwed to the unused COM terminal to hold the cover in place.

PSU connection:

17457604109_4e3dd97f1e_z.jpg


I include the harness that goes between the PSU and HAS, you just need to buy the cable that goes between the PSU and the wall socket. Standard computer PSU cable will do, just cut and strip it. Even better would be an IEC cable with a switch - https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/computer-power-cord-with-switch.php
Avoid cheap Chinese PSUs and power cables.
Click to expand...
Where can I buy it but ith french/european plug like this:
9212.jpg
 
nonosto said:
RGB said:
@nonosto - I recommend you buy a Mean Well MWP-606 or SUZO 42PP0606, the best PSU I've tested so far. The metal cage is really sturdy, build quality is top notch and the PSU doesn't get hot.

I will offer or at least release STL files for a cover for the Mean Well MWP-606/SUZO 42PP0606. It will be screwed to the unused COM terminal to hold the cover in place.

PSU connection:

17457604109_4e3dd97f1e_z.jpg


I include the harness that goes between the PSU and HAS, you just need to buy the cable that goes between the PSU and the wall socket. Standard computer PSU cable will do, just cut and strip it. Even better would be an IEC cable with a switch - https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/computer-power-cord-with-switch.php
Avoid cheap Chinese PSUs and power cables.
Click to expand...
Where can I buy it but ith french/european plug like this:
9212.jpg
Click to expand...
Hey,@nonosto.I don't know, but i think you've watched on @modology's video to see how the HAS will be installed after you'll get it from @RGB,right?
 
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The PSU states the input voltage, most (like the picture) will accept both 110 and 220 (but sometimes you need to move a physical switch to change this).
VbKVtr6.jpg


So just find the cheapest grounded Euro plug (anything) you can, cut the other end off, twist up the wire and screw 'em down to the appropriate terminals.

Welcome to being a home arcade operator... The only hobby where YOU get to be the electrician! ;)
 
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