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Home Arcade System

Switch 1 on the OSSC is set to buffered. Maybe I'll try the regenerated later to see if that helps. But that is for the S24, any ideas on the Buccaneers? It doesn't even sync with the OSSC, let alone getting to my TV..
 
Well, I know this is a really strange and not really preferred scenario...
  1. Output from the HAS into Euro SCART
  2. SCART-2-Component adapter (like the CSY-2100/clones)
  3. Component into OSSC
  4. HDMI to TV
Success? :huh:
 
OK, that is a plan for the S24, but I need to buy #2 above to test. Before I do, I'm going to try the old @jassin000 method of using only the SCART out (like your Mortal Kombat 1 board). If that doesn't work, I'll buy the #2 above and test it out.

Any ideas for Buccaneers, since I might be buying extra cables?
 
I say owning a iScan DVDO VP30 is just a good idea, if you ever find one for a reasonable price snap it up.
That's a solid plan S24 or not!

The SCART to component adapters on the other hand...
Meh, I don't know if you want to invest just to test, it might not work (or look great).

Try out the 8-pin mini din to Euro SCART cable first, also try unprocessed sync in addition to buffered and regenerated.
Play around with the H and V sync tolerances of the OSSC.
 
Some arcade boards have a weird sync that the OSSC has trouble latching onto. I’ve personally seen it with the Taito F3 and Irem M72 boards.

In addition to the suggestions already mentioned, @RGB has an adapter you can use to output the HAS to VGA rather than SCART. The OSSC can then latch onto the sync more easily because VGA has separate horizontal and vertical sync signals while SCART combines them.

Using VGA has gotten those difficult boards working on the OSSC for me.
 
That's super classy opt2not. HAS Level Up!

I haven't been keeping up with RGB latest, could I get on a list for 2 RGB extenders when the time comes?
Yeah, RGB's extender is fantastic. I had to opt for it when they were available.

I also like to use a JAMMA right-angle connector with my HAS. I bought it from shadows on the N-G forums, and it helps with space and organization (originally it was supposed to be for my arcade cabinet and bigger PCB's that barely fit in the PCB bay).
Here's an updated shot of my set-up, with shadow's right-angle connector, RGB's extender, 3P4P and HD-15 add-on board.
CO61pKI.jpg

I love my HAS!
Click to expand...
 
electricgrave said:
That's super classy opt2not. HAS Level Up!

I haven't been keeping up with RGB latest, could I get on a list for 2 RGB extenders when the time comes?
Click to expand...
Thanks EG! Good to see you on A-P as well!

Unfortunately, a few pages back RGB mentioned he doesn't have any plans to make more of those extenders because it was too time consuming:


RGB said:
the Goat said:
Are you referring to that JAMMA extension cable? Are they still available? It looks high quality.
Click to expand...
Not available anymore (and no plans to re-stock), I only built like 10-15pcs iirc, they were too time consuming to make:
24041803142_8bb89eb847.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I don't blame him, it was worth a shot but I'm happy with my HAS sets the way they are. It commands royal state but then again PCBs always do so it's not that bad at all. I'm currently using mine on a decent looking wood boards, makes for an easy application for different systems.

Yeah man, good to be here as well seeing so many familiar people.!
 
Hello,

I was thinking about preordering the HAS 3.3 Supergun. I was wondering if the HD Retrovision PS2 component cable will work with the appropriate add on hat? Any help/info would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Rob
 
@lobogau yes the ps1 HD retrovision cable does work with hat. But the ps2 component cable won't work. Because it is a pass thru cable, where as the ps1 converts rgb to component
 
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@RGB testing out some pc's and can't get the audio to work. Not working on a cps2 or another board that I have. Any ideas you can throw my way?
 
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Hi,

How do I order a Supergun HAS?

I have a Supergun Mak Strike V3, I use it only to connect the Neo Geo MVS to the PVM, I do not dare to use it with my OSSC, it does not have protection in the RGB / Sync lines.

Thank you
 
limwer said:
I do not dare to use it with my OSSC, it does not have protection in the RGB / Sync lines
Click to expand...
Protection? Uh... It only needs to output proper SCART levels.
I guess if the sync is TTL and of a high voltage that isn't good for the long term health of the OSSC.
But remember, even the HAS must output TTL sync to get the Taito F3 working (it is low voltage however, and shouldn't be an issue).

If you can display it on a PVM/BVM without any issues (aka high voltage TTL sync would be bad for a PVM as well) I'm almost positive its fine for the OSSC.
Kano said:
where as the ps1 converts rgb to component
Click to expand...
Poorly, the conversion has many color imperfections and artifacts added from the NTSC compression.
I highly recommend you toss that cable in the trashcan where it belongs.
Kano said:
Not working on a cps2 or another board that I have. Any ideas you can throw my way?
Click to expand...
How are you getting the audio from the CPS2... RCA jacks on the CPS2 itself or JAMMA edge/HAS 3.5mm jack?
lobogau said:
I was wondering if the HD Retrovision PS2 component cable will work
Click to expand...
I suspect so many of you want to use this cable because you own a LCD TV and for some reason think this will A) work and B) actually look good.
I'm here to tell you that...
A) it most likely will NOT work and B) even if it does work it will look like shit because LCDs will never understand that a sub 480 resolution image can be progressive (aka it treats everything <=480 as interlaced).

If you own a CRT you can disregard both A) and B).
 
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HouseOfTheEd said:
then using a stereo RCA to female 3.5mm adapter from the CPS2 to the 3.5mm audio connector on the SCART cable
Click to expand...
Get this...
69m38SG.jpg


It's basically the same thing you are talking about doing with the cable above (only I think its in a much neater package).
The kit comes with a 8-pin mini-din cable (male/male) so all you would need is the RCA to 3.5mm audio cable.
4408001_sd.jpg


Keeping the audio and video cables separate also helps reduce video noise in my experience.
 
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