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How hardy are Triforces?

Seller sells a lot of arcade stuff i feel like untested is a risk since its a good excuse for not working.
 
Well it;s missing the ram but you can source that elsewhere. I was looking at it also but it's a gamble untested. The missing ram tells me it was taken for a reason. Maybe just to make a different one 1gb, maybe because the pcb is faulty. They are pretty hardy though. Seems that the biggest problem is the main gamecube pcb goes bad but it's not as common as a failing Chihiro.
 
Saw that the RAM was missing... I have a 512GB stick all ready to go.

Glad to hear it's pretty hardy - I will think about it - depends on what he replies back with to me.

Matt
 
mathewbeall said:
Saw that the RAM was missing... I have a 512GB stick all ready to go.

Glad to hear it's pretty hardy - I will think about it - depends on what he replies back with to me.

Matt
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They managed to test the Naomi they have for sale... So unless their reasoning is "We didn't have RAM on hand", I'd probably be pretty leery.
 
The seller is a reliable person and has sold many useful things to the collector scene over the years; he is clearing out a warehouse/building he bought.

In this case I would assume he doesn't know how to setup or test JVS, but does know how to test JAMMA in some cases. He is not a tech or arcade guy really, just a seller.

But your risk, it is listed untested.
 
brizzo said:
I would assume he doesn't know how to setup or test JVS
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He tested the Naomi though, so this doesn't seem to be the case.

Good to know he's a good seller though.
 
Ok ... the triforce arrived today. I must say - I think it *was* tested, but just didn’t work.. half of the screws are out of it!

When I turn it on, fan goes on, top board lights up, LAN, etc... blinky lights. But - no sound, no video.

I start to take it apart piece by piece and notice that one of the ribbon cables connecting the (GPU?) to the main board are disconnected. Hope flairs a bit. I managed to get it all apart, and then back together - with all 3 ribbon cables connected (this was slightly annoying).... boot it up - same behavior. So I think that someone just didn’t check that cable when they were putting it back together.

Sooooo - does anyone have anywhere I can start to troubleshoot? Obviously the filterboard is working, and the top media board (probably).... nothing is obviously wrong with the middle board, or the bottom board. Ill post some pics when I can get to my computer and resize them.
 

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There's a thread by @GeoAnas with a cap listing. You can replace the smd caps with through hole versions. They're easy to twist out without needing to de-solder, but you have to be careful to twist laterally until they're free and not pry upward or you'll rip solder pads up.

Once they're removed, it's easy to solder new caps in. I used through hole versions and soldered the legs to the pads and clipped the legs.

I've fixed 2 Triforce units with this method. I bet that will get you up and running.
 
Just read that thread - his board looks a little different from mine, but no worries... I would still love to see another board like mine to validate if that inductor (L3) should be there...

Going to work on documenting the caps - twist and lift eh?! I will give it a shot!

Matt
 

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Here is my cap loadout:

470 uf, 16v - 1
470 uf, 10v - 1
470 uf, 6v - 7
220 uf, 6.3v - 6
100 uf, 16v - 2
100 uf, 6v - 1
47 uf, 16v - 3
47 uf, 6.3v - 2

Total of 23!

here is a full picture of motherboard, and a fancy hand drawing of the caps
 

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I just twisted all of them off - the very first one I did (C56) of course I messed up, and took part of the pad off (see pic). since it was the negative side, can I just jump off of an existing capacitor negative pad - C57 is right there.

Here are the values, and positions (at least for my motherboard):

C #ValueVoltageValueVoltageSum
C56470uf10v470uf16v1
C5747uf6.3v470uf10v1
C50470uf16v470uf6v7
C48220uF6.3v220uf6.3v6
C51220uf6.3v100uf16v2
C66220uf6.3v100uf6v1
C67470uf6v47uf16v3
C65470uf6v47uf6.3v2
C58100uf16v
C38470uf6v
C35470uf6v
C3347uf6.3v
C31220uf6.3v
C30220uf6.3v
C29220uf6.3v
C21470uf6v
C20100uf16v
C15470uf6v
C1347uf16v
C647uf16v
C547uf16v
C4100uf6v
C2470uf6v
 

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Any voltage rating higher than what is on there now will work. I usually don't order lower than 15v.
 
Yes, but a higher voltage rating could mean a larger footprint, which is troublesome with SMD caps. I would go for 6.3V ones.
 
Ok Cool - got the 6.3v ones.... regarding my note about if I am able to jump the ground for C56 off of C57 - is that an issue?


mathewbeall said:
I just twisted all of them off - the very first one I did (C56) of course I messed up, and took part of the pad off (see pic). since it was the negative side, can I just jump off of an existing capacitor negative pad - C57 is right there.

Here are the values, and positions (at least for my motherboard):

C #ValueVoltageValueVoltageSum
C56470uf10v470uf16v1
C5747uf6.3v470uf10v1
C50470uf16v470uf6v7
C48220uF6.3v220uf6.3v6
C51220uf6.3v100uf16v2
C66220uf6.3v100uf6v1
C67470uf6v47uf16v3
C65470uf6v47uf6.3v2
C58100uf16v
C38470uf6v
C35470uf6v
C3347uf6.3v
C31220uf6.3v
C30220uf6.3v
C29220uf6.3v
C21470uf6v
C20100uf16v
C15470uf6v
C1347uf16v
C647uf16v
C547uf16v
C4100uf6v
C2470uf6v
Click to expand...
 
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