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I usually let output default settings in generic 4:3, I've installed the latest Beta fw to get Sega Mega Play to sync, but no success.
I've had sync issues with Green Beret PCB, Sega System 24 and Atomiswave in 15 kHz as well.
I think most people do exactly what you do.

The point of this thread is that there’s actually more precise settings that get a better picture.

The generic settings generally do work for everything.
 
OK, so... I tried TMNT (Japanese 2 player ROMS), and first, I don't have your exact same settings options, maybe I need to update my OSSC, but when I did put in what you had, the middle is all blurry while the edges are super sharp. I also get flickering pixels at 5x with 1920x1200 as well as 256x240 optim. settings.

What FW are you running on your OSSC an also, can there be differences in PCBs I wonder? There shouldn't be, right? Maybe it's my LG OLED not liking to resolution? I'm running a C9 so it's sort of older.

I didn't get this sharp like yours, but I DEFINITELY see a difference now. When I tried your settings the edges were sharp as shit, much sharper than the generic settings.

Oh one more, on your "here's another photo to show misaligned" what is that setting on? I'd like to see some bars like that to mess with it.

@Paranoid_Andy can you detail the OSSC mod and settings necessary for the Taito F3 capture?

Sorry for my late reply. I thought this thread was pretty much done being replied to so I hadn't checked in for a little while. @XtraSmiley The setting I was in was the Color Bleed Check in the 240p Test Suite for SNES. As for the blurry middle that should mean that you're VERY close to having the proper Sample Rate. You probably just need to make some tiny fractional adjustments. Also yes I'm using beta firmware 1.6.

@BroadwayJose Sorry for the delay as well. This is the mod that I performed to get the F3 working: https://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=OSSC_AV3_use_AV1_RGB_mod
As for my settings, at the time I used Generic 4:3 with the settings mentioned on the page above. However when I have time I intend to attempt to dial it in with optimal settings if I can.

I'll be keeping a better eye on this thread from now on since I see there is still interest :)
 
Have you made any progress towards figuring out how to dial in a specific game?

I've been trying to get barman forever (stv) going on my vewlix. I was using the taito scaler from the JAMMA kit but it looked bad and was chopping off the left edge of the image.

I bought an ossc 1.6 and built harnesses to hook it up to the cab, upgraded the firmware. It refuses to even show an image of this game until I found and manually programmed in some settings recommended for Saturn. Afer seval hours of working this out I have an image but it's WORSE than the taito scaler. It's chopping off the right edge of the image instead of the left edge and it has this terrible noise in the image. The actual scalled image looks pretty terrible also.
 
I will state up front that I don't know anything about phase...

but in my experience with the OSSC, taking someone else's phase adjustment and applying to your TV/PCB/console may not have the best results.

Firebrandx had some useful OSSC profiles that that I imported. They looked pretty good but the phase needed to be adjusted slightly to crisp up the image.

I am making an assumption that everything looked great on firebrandx's setup.

I manually adjusted the phase for each console and for my multis. 240p test suite helps with the adjustment (where it's available). I had to do some by eye.

The OSSC pro has automatic phase adjustment that seems to work pretty damn well.

Retrotink 5x has it as well but I think it looks awful. I'm, not a 5x fan.
 
What about the RT4k? I’m hoping it’s more like the OSSC Pro than the 5x.
 
What about the RT4k? I’m hoping it’s more like the OSSC Pro than the 5x.
I hear great things about the 4k but I hear great things about the 5x too.

My issue is specifically with the automatic phase detection of the 5x. In my experience, the clarity of the game changes as I'm playing it. It's very annoying.

I purchased the 5x for it's downscaling capabilities. It let me down in that regard as well.

I got the ossc pro because of the troubles mentioned above. I'm very happy with my purchase. Phase detection is excellent and the downscaling is amazing.

I like other retrotink products a lot and have them in my setup.
 
@twistedsymphony Funny, I dialed in all my arcade boards but somehow it looks like I missed my STV.

Gimme a little time please and I'll see if I can get you some numbers to try. I don't have the same display as you though and the original OSSC doesn't play nice with all displays and sometimes it can be a hassle to get a good lock.

As for phase, yeah phase is unique to each user so that won't always transfer to other setups easily. Fortunately phase is pretty easy to figure out if you carefully look at the pixels as you adjust it. That's after everything else is setup though. At least, that's how I do it.
 
I did mange to get it looking ok. just going through the settings seeing how each one effected the image and tweaking. Once I got the whole image to display without getting cut-off The biggest improvement was bumping up from 2x to 4x, even though that puts it at a higher res than my monitor, that for some reason cut down on the noise (it's still present but it's better). doing that induced some weird color banding on the left side that I was able to hide with some settings on the monitor itself.

it's still far from perfect but at least now it's a significant improvement over the taito scaler

systems like the STV and the Sony ZN boards are hard because they switch around resolutions per game, and even some games change resolution mid game depending on the screen.
 
That's good to hear, glad you made progress. Yeah games with res swapping can be a pain on older scalers for sure.

Good luck!
 
for some reason cut down on the noise (it's still present but it's better). doing that induced some weird color banding on the left side that I was able to hide with some settings on the monitor itself.
FWIW I’ve found lowering the R, G or B values/intensity on the OSSC (via the “Video in Proc”) menu can greatly reduce and/or eliminate color artifacts. I used to have some wicked green push/noisy pixels on CPS3 that had to have my G level adjusted downward to alleviate.
 
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