Nice! This kind of super-bespoke micro fabrication is really exciting - the power of SMT
- Thread starter hatmoose
- Start date
So basically you just connect the pi while holding the reset button, this opens a folder on windows, drag and drop this into it:
https://github.com/BlueSCSI/BlueSCS...3.04.10/BlueSCSI_Pico_2023-04-10_29948cbb.uf2
It will reboot and load the system properly.
Then for mine you just load the files as specified before onto the sd card and it will work just fine with the Bluescsi2
I will be adding them to Paradise soon if people are interested.
https://github.com/BlueSCSI/BlueSCS...3.04.10/BlueSCSI_Pico_2023-04-10_29948cbb.uf2
It will reboot and load the system properly.
Then for mine you just load the files as specified before onto the sd card and it will work just fine with the Bluescsi2
I will be adding them to Paradise soon if people are interested.
kinooshi823
Professional
So I found a BlueSCSI v2 desktop that I can buy. That is what I will need for the cps3?
skate323k137
Enlightened
Should work fine
I came back to this after a long hiatus - mainly because I wanted to learn how to put custom logos on PCB silkscreen. So here it is - the CPS3 Special Edition!
Whats so special about it?
I might eventually make some of these and offer them for sale. But let's be honest - Most likely I'll get distracted and forget about the whole thing. Gerbers attached
Whats so special about it?
- It says "special" right there in the middle! (how much more special do you want?)
- it has a picture of Ryu instead of a funny dog! (handy if you forget what he looks like)
- It has the correct CPS3 filename and file format for the SD card written on it (this last one might actually be useful)
I might eventually make some of these and offer them for sale. But let's be honest - Most likely I'll get distracted and forget about the whole thing. Gerbers attached
BlueSCSI v2. This was fun - actually making such a thing is beyond my ability at the moment, but maybe not for long
Placeholder artwork obviously - I'll come up with my own when I know I can actually do it.
Placeholder artwork obviously - I'll come up with my own when I know I can actually do it.
Basically what I'm going for is something that looks as close to the original CD silk screen as possible, looks like they had a base CD substrate colour (silver), then a base colour (black), then a highlight colour (red or orange or whatever)
Base colour
Hilight colour
The CD itself (shiny silver)
Replicating this with PCB manufacturing (which is designed to solve a completely different set of challenges) is fun
There are a lot of restrictions around what silkscreen colour you can have with what board, pretty much the only way to get black silkscreen is to have white solder mask
Normally the mask covers the whole board, but its possible to define the mask as its own layer and let the substrate show through.
Silk screen colour = white
Solder mask colour = black
The colour of the substrate itself = copper
So using FR4 would look something like this - which is cool, but not the look im going for with the "New Generation" theme (although it would look cool for a "3rd strike" Theme.
What I want it to look like is this - so looking at how I can take the unmasked copper layer, define it as a footprint, and get them to tin the copper and make it silver...
Oh and then there is the minor matter of moving all the components around that it actually, you know, works...
Edit: realised I was trying WAAAAAAAY to hard here - any exposed copper is going to get tinned whether I like it or not in the ENIG/HASL treatment phase anyway, so problem solved
Base colour
Hilight colour
The CD itself (shiny silver)
Replicating this with PCB manufacturing (which is designed to solve a completely different set of challenges) is fun
There are a lot of restrictions around what silkscreen colour you can have with what board, pretty much the only way to get black silkscreen is to have white solder mask
Normally the mask covers the whole board, but its possible to define the mask as its own layer and let the substrate show through.
Silk screen colour = white
Solder mask colour = black
The colour of the substrate itself = copper
So using FR4 would look something like this - which is cool, but not the look im going for with the "New Generation" theme (although it would look cool for a "3rd strike" Theme.
What I want it to look like is this - so looking at how I can take the unmasked copper layer, define it as a footprint, and get them to tin the copper and make it silver...
Oh and then there is the minor matter of moving all the components around that it actually, you know, works...
Edit: realised I was trying WAAAAAAAY to hard here - any exposed copper is going to get tinned whether I like it or not in the ENIG/HASL treatment phase anyway, so problem solved
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You have much more flexibility with mask colors and silkscreen colors if you go through a different fabrication house. The cheap prototyping places such as pcbway and jlcpcb limit your options for a reason...to fill panels quick and keep the price down. If you go to a pcb house that deals more in manufacturer orders rather than prototyping they can do custom mask colors etc. It's more expensive for sure. Maybe 75% more but you get the custom results you want.
The first batch of c2 multis we sold were light blue. It was a custom color that was mixed by hand. He actually didn't charge me extra because I was a good repeat customer so he did it as a favor. Now we try to keep prices down by doing more common options. Point is you can have more options if you are willing to pay for it.
Also, if you have ever seen one of our limited special edition s18 multis it is black and gold. The main pcb is matte Black mask and we used ENIG which makes all of the exposed copper look gold. Then for the flash modules we actually had made a mistake on the protos and left off the top mask layer so when we received them the top of each module was just silver. We decided to keep the mistake and use ENIG and every module was a nice shiny gold color. The black and gold combo looks amazing on those few units.
They asked us every time if we meant to do it while ordering as it was clearly a mistake. They obliged us and it turned out well.
Try asking around to some other pcb houses other than the big boys. If you really want it to turn out a certain way they can make it happen for a price.
The first batch of c2 multis we sold were light blue. It was a custom color that was mixed by hand. He actually didn't charge me extra because I was a good repeat customer so he did it as a favor. Now we try to keep prices down by doing more common options. Point is you can have more options if you are willing to pay for it.
Also, if you have ever seen one of our limited special edition s18 multis it is black and gold. The main pcb is matte Black mask and we used ENIG which makes all of the exposed copper look gold. Then for the flash modules we actually had made a mistake on the protos and left off the top mask layer so when we received them the top of each module was just silver. We decided to keep the mistake and use ENIG and every module was a nice shiny gold color. The black and gold combo looks amazing on those few units.
They asked us every time if we meant to do it while ordering as it was clearly a mistake. They obliged us and it turned out well.
Try asking around to some other pcb houses other than the big boys. If you really want it to turn out a certain way they can make it happen for a price.
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Thankyou for the pointer - I have found some short-run fabrication places that will do Black/Red for a not too outrageous price.
"Not too outrageous" is about 5 x what JLCPCB charge (others are 10x) - goes to show just how far down JLC have driven the market price of this stuff...
Going for a look like one of these, the Second Impact artwork appeals to me more - Charlie looks much more determined in profile. For whatever reason the 3rd strike artwork (Chun Li) does not appeal to me at all...
The holes on the stock TRfightstick mounting plate are designed for SD2SCSI, wondering if I could replace with something like this
If anyone knows what that "Giant Attack" font is and could tell me I would be much obliged...
"Not too outrageous" is about 5 x what JLCPCB charge (others are 10x) - goes to show just how far down JLC have driven the market price of this stuff...
Going for a look like one of these, the Second Impact artwork appeals to me more - Charlie looks much more determined in profile. For whatever reason the 3rd strike artwork (Chun Li) does not appeal to me at all...
The holes on the stock TRfightstick mounting plate are designed for SD2SCSI, wondering if I could replace with something like this
If anyone knows what that "Giant Attack" font is and could tell me I would be much obliged...
Yeah JLC is awesome for prototyping and even full production blanks in most cases. I've dealt with a few other smaller guys who were very friendly and willing to help and please. You just pay for that service.
I've been using "Krita" as a great FOSS bitmap editing suite - it has lots of really useful tools for isolating specific edges/layers/etc
Still got a lot of work to do, but getting the hang of it.
For PCB art you can get 3+1+1 colours
Soldermask (red in this case)
Silkscreen (black in this case)
ENIG or HASL (silver in this case)
Its possible to sneak another couple of colours in too
Soldermask + copper, this is always going to be a variation on the solder mask colour, a darker red here (not used)
Bare substrate, this is going to be whatever colour the raw fibreglass substrate is.
So for this one I need 3 high-contrast layers so the image editor in Kicad can work with them
Unfortunately while Krita is an awesome drawing tool it is a hopeless layout tool - it doesn't even try to measure things in mm/inches - only in pixels so I'm having to use an external PPI to mm converter and construction lines to make sure everything is the right size
And its also complete garbage with vectors, so the writing writing needs to be converted to a (correctly sized) bitmap which is a shame because Kicad now has good support for SVG.
If anyone knows of a great FOSS bitmap tool like Krita that will accurately draw bitmaps in mm/inches AND has decent handling vectors I would really love to find out.
Still got a lot of work to do, but getting the hang of it.
For PCB art you can get 3+1+1 colours
Soldermask (red in this case)
Silkscreen (black in this case)
ENIG or HASL (silver in this case)
Its possible to sneak another couple of colours in too
Soldermask + copper, this is always going to be a variation on the solder mask colour, a darker red here (not used)
Bare substrate, this is going to be whatever colour the raw fibreglass substrate is.
So for this one I need 3 high-contrast layers so the image editor in Kicad can work with them
Unfortunately while Krita is an awesome drawing tool it is a hopeless layout tool - it doesn't even try to measure things in mm/inches - only in pixels so I'm having to use an external PPI to mm converter and construction lines to make sure everything is the right size
And its also complete garbage with vectors, so the writing writing needs to be converted to a (correctly sized) bitmap which is a shame because Kicad now has good support for SVG.
If anyone knows of a great FOSS bitmap tool like Krita that will accurately draw bitmaps in mm/inches AND has decent handling vectors I would really love to find out.
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Does anyone have any idea how to change the databus pinout in the bluescsi source?
I want to change the DB pinout on the STM32 to align better with something i'm trying and in the source file it seems all those pins are commented out?
I have no experience with STM32 stuff only arduino, I would of thought they would be uncommented but furthermore I can't find any other reference to those pins in the source. I'm clearly missing something because obviously if you download the pre-compiled bin it works.
I want to change the DB pinout on the STM32 to align better with something i'm trying and in the source file it seems all those pins are commented out?
I have no experience with STM32 stuff only arduino, I would of thought they would be uncommented but furthermore I can't find any other reference to those pins in the source. I'm clearly missing something because obviously if you download the pre-compiled bin it works.
Attachments
skate323k137
Enlightened
Is it one of those kinds of configs where the defaults are shown commented out and only affect things if you uncomment and change them? Purely speculation but that's where my head wonders immediately.
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Yeah possibly, I just found it weird how I couldn't find any other entry relating to DB or the GPIO number. I'll have to wire this up using jumpers and try swapping the leads/updating the code and see if it works.
could you help me please, I use since few month bluescsi and work perfectly with custom cart. I tried with standard SH2 file for darksoft cart and I have error on my cps3, disc dont read properly.
log from my SCSI:
Any solution?
NB: I use the UniCD-CPS3_for_standard_SH2_V4_Unmodified.iso
Thanks
log from my SCSI:
Code:
BlueSCSI https://github.com/erichelgeson/BlueSCSI
VER: 1.1-20231116-USB
DEBUG:0
SDCard Info:
Format:FAT32/16/12 - exFAT may improve performanceSPI speed: 50Mhz
Max Filename Length:64
MID:74 OID:J`
Name:USD Date:3/2024
Serial:823108716
- CD10_2048-CPS3SH2CUSTOM.iso - file is fragmented, see https://github.com/erichelgeson/BlueSCSI/wiki/Image-File-Fragmentation
CDROM / 588361728bytes / 574572KiB / 561MiB
MODE2:1 BlockSize:0
ID:LUN0:
0:----:
1:2048:
2:----:
3:----:
4:----:
5:----:
6:----:
Finished configuration - Starting BlueSCSIAny solution?
NB: I use the UniCD-CPS3_for_standard_SH2_V4_Unmodified.iso
Thanks
I’d be looking at the file name of the .iso log is unclear if the old iso has been correctly replaced
Maybe rename
CPS3_for_standard_SH2_V4_Unmodified.iso
To something like
CD10_2048-standard.iso
Then delete off the SD card the old file called
CD10_2048-CPS3custom.iso
And replace it with the freshly renamed file
CD10_2048-standard.iso
Then see if we get a different result
Maybe rename
CPS3_for_standard_SH2_V4_Unmodified.iso
To something like
CD10_2048-standard.iso
Then delete off the SD card the old file called
CD10_2048-CPS3custom.iso
And replace it with the freshly renamed file
CD10_2048-standard.iso
Then see if we get a different result
Thanks very much, I tried but dont work:
Code:
BlueSCSI https://github.com/erichelgeson/BlueSCSI
VER: 1.1-20231116-USB
DEBUG:0
SDCard Info:
Format:exFAT
SPI speed: 50Mhz
Max Filename Length:64
MID:74 OID:J`
Name:USD Date:3/2024
Serial:823108716
- CD10_2048-standard.iso CDROM / 588361728bytes / 574572KiB / 561MiB
MODE2:1 BlockSize:0
ID:LUN0:
0:----:
1:2048:
2:----:
3:----:
4:----:
5:----:
6:----:
Finished configuration - Starting BlueSCSIHmmm, can’t see anything immediately wrong. BlueSCSI can boot, see the SD card, read the config and do… something.
So next layer in the stack is the CPS3 itself, is it giving you an error “in game”?
CD drive not found?
Please insert game CD?
Something like that?
