Ok for starters, you say it was working but then go on to say it was sold to you as non working "because the battery was changed incorrectly" - have YOU seen this board working correctly? Or are you taking someone's word for it?Hello Undammed,Ok, if game was working with battery, that's a good starting point. Yeah, try all SZ2 codes.The board was working when I did the installation, no issues with battery.
I'll try all the SZ2 codes in order to check if some of that works, I hope to revive the board. I also bought yesterday a eprom reader but it'll arrive in one month.Rev. 5 Jumper does not matter on Rev 3/4 installation. It doesn't hurt open or shorted. There is only so much room for text on PCB, so that is simplest/safest textAlso, my board is 4 version but I tested closing the pin because on the youtube video it said that is not mandatory. @undammed, is it mandatory to do this??
Your board is a -4 so you need to close the jumper that says “leave open for -5” and connect your power and groundWhen you say "video on green," do you mean that game is running fine, but picture looks very green?-udAntother question, for the other cps2 board(sfa usa-version), I had revived it but the game is working shown all in the video on green. I removed the resistor, as the video said(youtube installation), this can cause the issue?
Also, the board was dead when I did the procedure, the person that sold the board said that the game was working well until the battery was changed incorrectly.
I had recieved my eprom reader and I had read the rom 3 and 4, and later I identified the roms usind mame rom ident and the roms matched with sfz2h. I don't kwon what more to do
Please, help me with some ideas.
Thanks for the info! I've been soldering for years (arcade wiring and mechanical keyboard PCBs, mostly), but recently switched from a cheapo Microcenter station to a nice Hakko station with a more precise read-out - evidently I don't know what temperature I WAS soldering at on the old one! All good though, it was salvageable. Definitely should have tested more on something else.If it's a solid color screen it's probably suicided. I would recommend trying the Razoola CPS2 Suicide tester program rom to make sure. I have one cps2 board where even after writing keys to it, it stays on a blank screen. So using the Suicide Tester program rom will let you know if the error is just the keys aren't being written correctly or there's a further problem. One issue I have found with -3 and -4 CPS2 b boards is they sometimes require more 5v to program the keys... Can you test voltage at the jamma edge as well as on a chip and see where you're at? Should be 5v... if it's 4.8v at the chip that could be the problem.
Also, I would recommend practicing soldering on throw away boards a lot before ever doing a "production piece." So in the future if you need to solder something to through hole components, experiment on a throw away piece of tech first to get your method/temperature/process down.
Do you have any idea why a specific CPS A board I have would display a white screen? If you know which pins / area to look at? Given all the B boards infinikey'd or not work on other A boards, I am thinking if my A board has developed fault somewhere. I know this is the infinikey thead hopefully ud wont mind, but since this came up would be good to know.White screen is program ROMs can't be read
I checked paradise and they're out. I did PM you a couple of months back. I'm still interested as well, please message me back.I have plenty! Where we're you looking?-udWhat's your ETA on the next batch?
I would check all EPROMs (anything with a UV sticker, not mask ROMs for graphics/sound) against MAME files.
I quadruple checked my Infinikey install, and even tried installing a second brand new key in case I toasted the original. Still dead to the world. I don't have a blank eeprom handy to burn Razoola's tester, nor do I have a UV eraser (and I've read that the UV LED methods online don't really work) to recycle an existing ROM. May look at ordering a blank ROM later this week.They're not, until the encryption keys are loaded, main program isn't run.
Also, why do you still have a battery on there if you're installing an InfiniKey - get rid of that, short your EXC5 and check your InfiniKey install
So-called blank EPROM's are often not blank at all. I bought this germicidal lamp from Amazon and it kicks all kinds of arse for erasing chips. Get it next day or 2 days for a quick fix.I quadruple checked my Infinikey install, and even tried installing a second brand new key in case I toasted the original. Still dead to the world. I don't have a blank eeprom handy to burn Razoola's tester, nor do I have a UV eraser (and I've read that the UV LED methods online don't really work) to recycle an existing ROM. May look at ordering a blank ROM later this week.
Awesome! I had seen that method mentioned, but didn't realize the lamps were so cheap. Will definitely pick one up.germicidal lamp from Amazon[/url] and it kicks all kinds of arse for erasing chips. Get it next day or 2 days for a quick fix.
Got my UV lamp, wiped the ROM in socket 3, and wrote the suicide tester to it. Still getting a faint bluey screen, then after a power cycle still getting a green screen. In the suicide tester README, it mentions verifying that ROM 1 and 2 were valid - I dumped them and compared to romident: they both are recognizable as Darkstlakers ROMs. What doesn't make sense to me is that the rom in Socket 3 doesn't receive 5 volts if the correct decryption key isn't injected. So I guess I don't understand how a program on a rom in socket 3 is supposed to test the board for suicide if a suicided board doesn't get to the point of initializing those ROMs...So-called blank EPROM's are often not blank at all. I bought this germicidal lamp from Amazon and it kicks all kinds of arse for erasing chips. Get it next day or 2 days for a quick fix.I quadruple checked my Infinikey install, and even tried installing a second brand new key in case I toasted the original. Still dead to the world. I don't have a blank eeprom handy to burn Razoola's tester, nor do I have a UV eraser (and I've read that the UV LED methods online don't really work) to recycle an existing ROM. May look at ordering a blank ROM later this week.
Hello, sorry I new, how do I “short” the EXC5?Ok for starters, you say it was working but then go on to say it was sold to you as non working "because the battery was changed incorrectly" - have YOU seen this board working correctly? Or are you taking someone's word for it?Hello Undammed,Ok, if game was working with battery, that's a good starting point. Yeah, try all SZ2 codes.The board was working when I did the installation, no issues with battery.
I'll try all the SZ2 codes in order to check if some of that works, I hope to revive the board. I also bought yesterday a eprom reader but it'll arrive in one month.Rev. 5 Jumper does not matter on Rev 3/4 installation. It doesn't hurt open or shorted. There is only so much room for text on PCB, so that is simplest/safest textAlso, my board is 4 version but I tested closing the pin because on the youtube video it said that is not mandatory. @undammed, is it mandatory to do this??
Your board is a -4 so you need to close the jumper that says “leave open for -5” and connect your power and groundWhen you say "video on green," do you mean that game is running fine, but picture looks very green?-udAntother question, for the other cps2 board(sfa usa-version), I had revived it but the game is working shown all in the video on green. I removed the resistor, as the video said(youtube installation), this can cause the issue?
Also, the board was dead when I did the procedure, the person that sold the board said that the game was working well until the battery was changed incorrectly.
I had recieved my eprom reader and I had read the rom 3 and 4, and later I identified the roms usind mame rom ident and the roms matched with sfz2h. I don't kwon what more to do
Please, help me with some ideas.
You said on another board that it worked after installation but it was all green, I've seen this happen on boards where the keys are still partially in memory. Shorting EXC5 would solve this except you should be using the same keys just without a battery. Double check your installation.