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Multi Boyz Litigator
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For anyone who missed the story, I recently got back the very first candy cab I ever bought. Not quite sure where it's been all these years, but it went to Connecticut from Maine about 12 years ago and suddenly popped up in Oregon.

Surprisingly just about nothing has been done to it in all these years. The speaker pod still has a big old crack in it, there's still DECADE OLD CITRISTRIP RESIDUE ON THE CHROME EVEN. And it has a home built 2l12b panel by @BanishingFlatsAC

Ancient pics 08/09ish:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9DTK6hKWgkNV2GZL9

Re-found in Oregon:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bhsmha4GPLB7NaoQ6

Pics now:




What has been done is someone tore apart the wiring and sprayed the main cab with an awful feeling white spray paint. And they replaced the tube with one without a ton of burn on it!


To-do list as of now looks like:

Get the right speakers working. Brand new speaker, tested the pot, checked every connection against the schematic. No idea why the right doesn't work.

Eliminate the grounding issue the monitor has (I think all that needs doing is run a wire from earth ground to the chassis mount).

Tear it apart once it's all working, give it a new white coat with appliance epoxy.

Follow the example set by @twistedsymphony and use some vinyl to full cover the black around the glass.

Sand and paint the control panel upper.

Sand and dye the plastic part of the hood back to a nicer white.

Footrest rubber.

Get the proper locks and key (have the tangs and operational locks now).

Get some blue vinyl for the bit around the hood, and the Taito logo.

Repair the pod (worrisome).

Find the EGRET 29 plexi for the pod.

New Light fixture.

Wire management.
 
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You should remove earth ground from the tube frame, it should be floating. Whenever I ground a tube frame I get interference.
It's made literally no difference fortunately (unfortunately?)
 
Hahahaha, alright, alright. I added some old ones, and some from the seller in OR.

Will take some myself today.

All I've done so far is replace the speakers, the right volume pot, and move the earth grounds to where they belong (thanks again @twistedsymphony ). I also spent some time spent attempting to figure out my video issue and the right speaker issue, but to no avail on either.
 
PXL_20221104_202027468.jpg

PXL_20221104_202055533.jpg



Well, put some spade connectors on the PSU lines (they'd just been bare wire clamped under the screws) and the monitor issue has cleared itself up.

I still have no idea about right side audio. It's wired as the schematics show. Using the opposite side's negative for a positive. Brand new speakers. Tests fine with the meter, so there has to be something I'm not understanding.
 
With those type of PSUs it can help the interference to tie earth ground to DC ground, this works in my U4. Leave the monitor frame ungrounded.
 
Exciting to see how this project progresses - especially the pod repair. You can do it!
 
I still have no idea about right side audio. It's wired as the schematics show. Using the opposite side's negative for a positive. Brand new speakers. Tests fine with the meter, so there has to be something I'm not understanding.
out of curiosity what are you using for a test PCB? and is the P-Connector connected or disconnected?

EDIT:
For Context the P-Connector is a few inches down stream of the W-Connector (the big blue connector just downstream of the JAMMA edge). it's a little white 2-pin connector that modifies the Audio wiring.

The Taito Game that support Stereo over JAMMA want the connector disconnected, here's a page out of the Psychic Force 2012 manual talking about it:
IMG_20221104_210057409.jpg


I'm honestly not sure that the wiring diagram from the E29 manual (like the one I have in my thread) really explains the P-Connector I believe it adds ground to the audio circuit when connected (separating the left and right in the diagram when disconnected).

Looking at your service panel it looks like you have two different volume pots... one should be for left audio and the other is for right audio... so it's also possible it's one of the volume pots that's not right.
 
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out of curiosity what are you using for a test PCB? and is the P-Connector connected or disconnected?

EDIT:
For Context the P-Connector is a few inches down stream of the W-Connector (the big blue connector just downstream of the JAMMA edge). it's a little white 2-pin connector that modifies the Audio wiring.

The Taito Game that support Stereo over JAMMA want the connector disconnected, here's a page out of the Psychic Force 2012 manual talking about it:
IMG_20221104_210057409.jpg


I'm honestly not sure that the wiring diagram from the E29 manual (like the one I have in my thread) really explains the P-Connector I believe it adds ground to the audio circuit when connected (separating the left and right in the diagram when disconnected).

Looking at your service panel it looks like you have two different volume pots... one should be for left audio and the other is for right audio... so it's also possible it's one of the volume pots that's not right.
P connector is indeed connected. It shows as connected in the schematic so I left it that way.

I've been using Oriental Legend 2. No real reason, it was just closest when I started.

The pot is not the issue. Initially I had thought the right volume pot was bad, but at this point I have tested it and 3 different pots on both sides now. Everything works on the left side but not the right. I've reinstalled the original pot now that it's known working.

I've triple checked the wiring and everything goes from A to B as it should and you can get continuity all the way through the circuit how it should.

I've swapped speakers around to know they're all good as well. I'm at a loss.
 
Well, dual mono. But still. Problem solved! So now it's just pop that in if I have a stereo over JAMMA Taito game I guess!
no no, disconnected is the desired configuration for Taito Stereo Over JAMMA. I leave mine disconnected 100% of the time.
the only time you'll ever have a problem is if the game leaves "speaker -" disconnected for some reason. Everything else will work.
 
no no, disconnected is the desired configuration for Taito Stereo Over JAMMA. I leave mine disconnected 100% of the time.
the only time you'll ever have a problem is if the game leaves "speaker -" disconnected for some reason. Everything else will work.
Ahhhhh I misread. Got it now.
 
So what's the next problem that needs solved? :D
Paint and dye seems to be the next easiest step!

Hunting down the locks/key as some pop up on yaj or wherever I suppose.

I spoke with @Battlesmurf about getting around to reproducing the "EGRET 29" plexi on the pod.

Repairing the pod is also on the list, but that's certainly the most daunting part of this. Mostly because it's missing a small section.
 
I spoke with @Battlesmurf about getting around to reproducing the "EGRET 29" plexi on the pod.
Curious how that plays out. Lasert cut plexi with vinyl graphic overlays? Or is the edge chamfered and needs CNCing or what?
 
Curious how that plays out. Lasert cut plexi with vinyl graphic overlays? Or is the edge chamfered and needs CNCing or what?
Beats me, ha, mine is missing. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
 
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