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Jasen’s Customs: CPS1 Multi Case Thread

I'll see what the discord folks say about it. I've had a JAMBOARD collaboration open for case design inputs for about 5 months and nobody took issue with the screen mount. I'm not saying I don't like the idea of the screen on the top of the case, I just know its a pain for installation/assembly and it will add extra height that some people may not like. In the end, I can't please everyone, so concessions have to be made.

If there are other good ideas, hit me with them now please :) I don't really like designing in a vacuum as it ends up working how I want it to work vs. how a majority want it to work. Case in point, the screen location discussion.
 
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When I'm using one of my JAMMA PCBs, it is on the floor in front of the screen I'm using LCD TV or BVM CRT (not directly on the floor. each PCB is mounted on a particle board slab.). For me placement on the front or back of the case would locate the screen at an annoying place. I'd need to pick up the PCB (or lay down on the floor) to change the game.

Of course I recognize everybody's setup is different. But I think screen on the top of the case would be the most universally convenient.
 
Looking good, I'll be ordering a green one as soon as it's possible to! Personally I just need something to encase the whole kit as I'll be throwing it in a cab most of the time and have IDC cables out to the control panel for remote dips and LCD selector (so as to not have to crouch down to the board itself). Would be cool if there was some way to block off the LCD selector cutouts but if not I can 3D print something.
 
Ill design something to plug the LCD screen that you can print :) That's an easy one.
 
This is kind of what the top mount screen would look like. Some think its too busy... I'm not sure yet. I think the HDMI and buttons would get relocated to the other side of the case so there wasn't so much coming at you on the one side.


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So it looks like it’s going to be quite a bit oversized, around 25% wider than the PCBs? I get that you’re including room for hdmi and other items, but as someone who’s not going to ever install them I’m not sure I want to deal with the bulk. Got approximate dimensions?
 
JasenHicks said:
There are more parts and a lot more costs to develop it than the CPS3 case. Plus, I've made A LOT of CPS3 cases over the years so I do have some efficiencies there.

Note: I don't like the cost either, which is why I said I am seeing what I can do to help bring it down such as using 18ga steel instead of 16ga.
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What were the other two cases? Personally I say fuck the price and go with the thicker metal. Who cares if it's $50 more, this is a one time purchase for a multi that handles dozens of games. We want a super nice case. It's not like we're buying multiples of them.

I say go with the thick ass metal, nice paint and those cool graphics. A montage picture like the CPS2 case would be sweet.

Also, as I said in discord, I vote move the LCD onto the top, move the vents to the side catty-corner from the fan hole, that way it sucks are in across all the boards AND gets the vents off the top leaving more room for a cool graphic.

Finally, since I'm voting the thicker metal try to counter sink the screw holes so it looks so much more professional!
 
Kujako said:
So it looks like it’s going to be quite a bit oversized, around 25% wider than the PCBs? I get that you’re including room for hdmi and other items, but as someone who’s not going to ever install them I’m not sure I want to deal with the bulk. Got approximate dimensions?
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I am still working the design tweaks. The width is a bit too much still, I agree. Just need to get it just right. This is why I sleep before doing the hard work after a day of feverous design tweaks!
 
Would very much prefer a top mounted selector screen. This would be consistent with the CPS2 case design as well, which is also on my wanted list. Functionally I think that the top mount option is better in that I'm not forced to potentially move or lift the case when it comes time to load a different game. Whether I'm playing in a cab or on a supergun I'm always going to view and access the PCB from above the case, so it makes the most sense to me to have the selector easily accessible the same way.
 
My CPS2 case has the screen on the front. Though, after the discussions here and some with @XtraSmiley over on Discord the top screen mount does have appeal and I am leaning on going that way. I'll be doing some tweaks on the design tonight and I'll post up. Already have done the following:

1. Counter sunk screws on the side.
2. Moved vents to the side of the case. In my head I thought about my CPS3 case and how the vents are on top, but that was for a heatsink under them, not the fan. (Plus its right next to me on my desk).
3. Moved the screen to the top.
4. Moved the HDMI to the opposite side of the case.

Up next, reevaluating the width of the case overall and I'm working on something with @Mitsurugi-w as well.
 
Any chance of a blanking plate for the LCD location?

I seem to be the only one who wants the PCB deep inside my cabinet and my LCD selector somewhere near the front of my cabinet, or more accessible. (Ie, I won’t be mounting a screen to the case, I’ll have the ribbon cable hanging out of the case though)

Same goes for the remote dips, I’m wanting them in a more accessible location in my cabinet so don’t care about mounting that to the case.

There seems to be lots of variations to cover already so blanking plates may be the best solution? 🤷‍♂️
 
Ill design a simple 3D printed blocking plate that can be used, with a notch so the IDC cable can exit the case. This will solve that issue wherever the screen ends up.
 
I think that having the dips and the LCD screen on different sides of the case makes zero sense. Especially if you have this mounted inside of a cabinet, like a Dynamo HS-5 (like I would). It makes changing games and their dips a real hassle. Even if you are using it on a supergun setup, you'd have to first power off, turn the case one way, change the dips, then turn it the other way, power on, then use the selector.
 
+1 for the thicker metal and mounting the screen on top. The screen mount on top would sell me on the case-I’d likely pass on it otherwise.
 
obitus1990 said:
I think that having the dips and the LCD screen on different sides of the case makes zero sense. Especially if you have this mounted inside of a cabinet, like a Dynamo HS-5 (like I would). It makes changing games and their dips a real hassle. Even if you are using it on a supergun setup, you'd have to first power off, turn the case one way, change the dips, then turn it the other way, power on, then use the selector.
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We talked about this on discord and I agree with you, it's a hassle, but it's a shit solution either way, someone is not happy. It would really be awesome if someone was able to hack the games to remove the dip switch need (or unify them).

I guess the bulk of the buyers can chime in on where the LCD should be.
 
Got a link to the discord? I would like to get in on the discussions.
 
JasenHicks said:
It's a little less streamlined, but it is rather clean and mounted with screws to the case. The alternate option would be to use his other pcb that mounts to the filter board and having a notch or cable pass through cut next to the filter board so the thin ribbon can come out and over to it that way. The downside here is that the dipswitches will be on the back of the case with the HDMI/filter board instead of up front with the actual controls you would likely use all the time.

Let me know your thoughts!
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This might be asking a lot, but do you have a quick/dirty image/example of these options?
Its hard to visualize the different options.
 
I am actively working with @Mitsurugi-w for a dipswitch board that works with the case so its mounted inside and clean. Bunch of pics on the discord. His filterboard version is in his thread. The first idea with it being externally mounted was bad.... so bad. Best forget I said that one... I'm embarrassed by it.
 
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