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Konami Viper help: RTC SELF CHECK BAD now

Kidkaos

Kidkaos

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Hello,

I got a MoCap Boxing recently. RTC MEMORY BAD angry message when I got it. No big deal. Had a DALLAS chip programmed for me, installed a socket for easy replacement. Ta-da! Game worked for a nice 45 minute work out LOL
I turn it off, all is good.
Come back to it next evening now new angry message:
RTC SELF CHECK BAD
are you kidding me?? Any ideas as to what this means?? How to fix it? I'm at a loss. Game worked great with the new Dallas chip. Voltage is at 5.1v, socket and solder joints are nice and tight.
Any help is appreciated.
Konami Viper board: Mocap Boxing 2001
 

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Reset the clock

Hold the test button while booting ( if i remember correctly )
 
Crzmx said:
was the dallas chip newish, battery still good on it?
Click to expand...
According to the seller the DALLAS chip is NON-VOLATILE meaning there's no battery? That chip doesn't lose data? Does that make sense to you? I'm completely in the dark on this stuff.
 
Is there a way to test the chip to see if it's good? Data reading??
 
have a picture of the chip that was installed? we can should be able to tell if really non-volatile. where did you get it, if from a "store" front? and if you have a programmer you could read it, but if you had that, i'd assume you would've made your own.
 
Agree you should find the model number of the RTC and see what the data sheet says about it.
Worst case its some kinda board level thing or the chip is corrupted??
 
Correct. I'm going to buy a burner because fuck paying all this money for nothing AND I'm getting more Konami cabs in the future 😉
I'll post a chip pic tonight.

Thanks guys.
 
Kidkaos said:
According to the seller the DALLAS chip is NON-VOLATILE meaning there's no battery? That chip doesn't lose data? Does that make sense to you? I'm completely in the dark on this stuff.
Click to expand...
non-volatile means it wont lose it's data when power is removed, it is battery backed though and if it's old stock it could be dead even if it's "new"

there should be a date code on the chip for this reason.
 
Here's that replacement chip
 

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according to the datasheet: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/58452/DALLAS/DS1225Y-150.html
it contains "a lithium energy source ... to retain data" and boasts a 10 year lifespan

datasheet for the old chip is here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/electronic-components/datasheet/M48T58Y-70PC1--STMicroelectronics/

it looks like the new chip doesn't have a frequency output pin, so it's not a really an RTC (Real Time Clock), it's just some NVRAM.
usually the point of these RTCs is to keep time, that's also why they have a battery so they can continue to keep time when power is off.

I don't know enough about the Viper System to know if this is genuinely a suitable replacement. in the past for Konami RTCs though I've always tried to go with the original chip model where possible.

If this were me I'd try reading back the data on a programmer, or re-writing and reading back the data to see if it's retained.
 
twistedsymphony said:
according to the datasheet: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/58452/DALLAS/DS1225Y-150.html
it contains "a lithium energy source ... to retain data" and boasts a 10 year lifespan

datasheet for the old chip is here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/electronic-components/datasheet/M48T58Y-70PC1--STMicroelectronics/

it looks like the new chip doesn't have a frequency output pin, so it's not a really an RTC (Real Time Clock), it's just some NVRAM.
usually the point of these RTCs is to keep time, that's also why they have a battery so they can continue to keep time when power is off.

I don't know enough about the Viper System to know if this is genuinely a suitable replacement. in the past for Konami RTCs though I've always tried to go with the original chip model where possible.

If this were me I'd try reading back the data on a programmer, or re-writing and reading back the data to see if it's retained.
Click to expand...
I just bought a programmer so I'll know in about 2 weeks. I still have the original chip so battery is probably dead in it. I wonder if I can hack that battery and install a 3v battery for the future. I don't know much other than these things seem to be using old nvram chips with ticking time bomb batteries that suicide boards once they Run out of juice
 
you can deft expose the terminals for the original battery and connect a battery holder or battery directly to it, then program the chip. I've done it a bunch of times for my own games. just make sure how ever you attach the battery/holder it doesn't physically interfere with the case or board.
 
Crzmx said:
you can deft expose the terminals for the original battery and connect a battery holder or battery directly to it, then program the chip. I've done it a bunch of times for my own games. just make sure how ever you attach the battery/holder it doesn't physically interfere with the case or board.
Click to expand...
Can you do one for me if I send you my original chip??
 
Perfect. Where can I get that battery holder? I definitely want to learn. I'm looking at another Konami title with a similar issue so I'd definitely like to learn.
 
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