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The advanced edition 9pin board is mostly surface mount components. The only throughhole caps I used on my builds were the bipolars.

I thought there was a standard edition for the 9pin but I can't seem to find it. Perhaps I was misremembering.
 
This is what I have with Digikey part reference. A few are missing (you may have it already) but this is the BOM for the advanced version with Mini-din 9.
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This is what I have with Digikey part reference. A few are missing (you may have it already) but this is the BOM for the advanced version with Mini-din 9.
That's exactly the BOM I used it was in fact my first arcade project - I hope you get as much fun and satisfaction from this as I do!

H1 and H2 are 2.54mm header pins - something like this should do it
https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/würth-elektronik/61301611121/4846854?
J1 is the JAMMA edge connector - Hirose make particularly nice ones but there are many more economical options too
https://nz.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/CR7E-56DA-3.96E?

For my parts is use Digikey and Mouser per the links above
 
Been over my first board a few times, best I could do is sound output but no video. When you are soldering the surface mount caps and resistors, do they need to be flush to the board?
 
Nice! My first one didn’t work at all, you’re doing great, stay with it.

To answer your question, not really. I mean they will look much nicer flush, but as long as each side is attached to the pad with solder and the current flows that’s what it needs to work.

Got a picture or something, sometimes a couple of photos can really help with troubleshooting
 
Been over my first board a few times, best I could do is sound output but no video. When you are soldering the surface mount caps and resistors, do they need to be flush to the board?
Yes. Surface mount components should be mounted flush to the board. But the circuit will work as long as there is an electrical connection.
 
Been over my first board a few times, best I could do is sound output but no video. When you are soldering the surface mount caps and resistors, do they need to be flush to the board?
Trawling through my memory banks... I remember I had similar problems with soldering my board, I suspected a cold joint and putting a bit of hot air on it fixed it. I used a cheap Hot Air Desoldering SMD Rework Station but you could probably get away with a heat gun with a small nozzle and a known temperature output, you want the temperature to be just above your solder melting point and not spend too long on any one area (a few seconds), I covered plastic parts with kapton tape.
 
Thanks, I rebuilt and verified no cold joints. Do the mstreet6 put out NTSC or PAL?
 
So yeah I built the advanced plan a few times with no luck. I am using a Sega Genesis rgb cable off the din connector to a flat screen with rgb. Maybe it's the wrong u1? I am using the THS7374IPWR from the BOM. I could check the datasheet maybe it's not setting up right?
 
So yeah I built the advanced plan a few times with no luck. I am using a Sega Genesis rgb cable off the din connector to a flat screen with rgb. Maybe it's the wrong u1? I am using the THS7374IPWR from the BOM. I could check the datasheet maybe it's not setting up right?
Please clarify exactly what display are you using. By "flat screen" do you mean a "flat panel" (ie. LCD)? Many will not recognise interlaced RGBS that JAMMA arcade game produce.

Post some pictures of your completed minigun PCB.
 
Please clarify exactly what display are you using. By "flat screen" do you mean a "flat panel" (ie. LCD)? Many will not recognise interlaced RGBS that JAMMA arcade game produce.

Post some pictures of your completed minigun PCB.
Omg thats interesting, I will post later. I am using an Amazon HDTV that has the av out on it. Could I go through coax?
 
Pics of the setup would be really helpful with troubleshooting, but from the description I think the video output of the Minigun (RGBs only) does not match the signal that the monitor can display (composite video).

RGBs is the holy grail of analogue video quality. Many folks spend huge amounts of time getting perfect RGB output, and the Minigun has it built right in.

So I think the next step is either get a monitor that can display RGB from the Minigun natively, or a converter to convert the RGB from the Minigun into something that the monitor can display - like composite video over.

I found this article really helpful when I was starting on my supergun journey
https://www.retrorgb.com/displayrgb.html
 
Ah learned something new! This all makes a lot more sense. I will test with my upscaler tomorrow
 
Ah learned something new! This all makes a lot more sense. I will test with my upscaler tomorrow

Your explanation of things has not been clear.

I think you should provide the requested pics. In the time of smart phones, there's really no reason not to.

Pics of the following could really help a lot:
TV (or model number)
RGB cable
Super Gun

I'm sure we can get you sorted out but you need to help us help you.

If you refuse to provide pics, which RGB cable are you using?
 
Hey,
Not refusing, just busy. I appreciate all the help so far. See attached for pics of my workbench,
I am using this screen
I am using this cable/upscaler
See pics for the supergun (haven't put the dsub connectors on yet, want to make sure the video is working before I put those in as I haven't built a controller yet.
Could my issue be the upscaler? Should I buy this Cable and use it with the ccomposite input?
 

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OK, just got it to work. I found one of GeorgeSpinner's earlier posts in 2021 to someone in my situation. In the course of this I managed to build three guns, only one worked looking at it, I think that the miniDIN port needs more solder on the other two. Color is terrible but I can't get to the service screen to dial it in yet, because, no controller as I said before. Thanks everyone for the help! Next stop is most likely a nice CRT! Question, if it has Pr/Y/Pb inputs, would this be the same as RGBs or would I have to get an upscaler?

This is such a great feeling to finally get the solve. It's been crazy going over the board, my solder joints, everything!
 

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If the CRT only has YPbPr inputs (most consumer sets), you'll need something like the RGB2COMP from retrotink.com to convert the signal. An upscaler is a different product completely.

If the CRT is a PVM/BVM that accepts both YPbPr and RGB over the same inputs, then you'll be fine.
 
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