What's new
Hey thanks! To clarify in the previous post I was looking at the 75 ohm antenna input on the back of my screen. Not trolling. I don't really like the idea of having a professional monitor, sounds like retrotink is the way to go. I was thinking about making a custom harness for it so I could wire it into the 5v power supply I have so that it's just one plug. It shows I have a 16A supply I know the retrotink takes 500ma and I am guessing the mini gun takes about that much. Would it be too much to squeeze that extra .5 amp?
 
Just to clarify so you (or anyone else who reads it) doesn't buy the wrong product: retrotink is the company name, and is sometimes used to refer to the retrotink line of upscalers (retrotink 2x, retrotink 5x, upcoming retrotink 4k). You'll want the RGB2COMP from retrotink (or another RGB to YPbPr converter) to convert the signal to YPbPr.

Note that this signal might only work with CRTs. If you ever try to feed that converted YPbPr to an LCD or modern display it probably won't work, or with subpar results. The reason being SDTV CRTs can handle 240p fine, but newer displays tend to process it as 480i (if it'll even recognize the signal), which will introduce lag and really poor upscaling. To display onto a modern display you'll want to use the rad2x like you're already doing or some other upscaler (ossc, retrotink2x or rt5x, etc.)

As for the power question, are you talking about powering the COMP2RGB off the same PSU as the minigun? I would guess that could work as long as the voltage you feed the COMP2RGB is correct
 
Hey thanks! Yes I was looking at the rgb2comp, thanks for the added help! I was looking at the board and Vin is 5V I am pretty sure there is the room on the power supply. Also want to run lighting in a case I am building for it. Got an idea to stack it all in a secondary enclosure.
 
OK, just got it to work. I found one of GeorgeSpinner's earlier posts in 2021 to someone in my situation. In the course of this I managed to build three guns, only one worked looking at it, I think that the miniDIN port needs more solder on the other two. Color is terrible but I can't get to the service screen to dial it in yet, because, no controller as I said before. Thanks everyone for the help! Next stop is most likely a nice CRT! Question, if it has Pr/Y/Pb inputs, would this be the same as RGBs or would I have to get an upscaler?

This is such a great feeling to finally get the solve. It's been crazy going over the board, my solder joints, everything!
I'm glad you are making progress.

What was my post related to?

It's very confusing when starting out.

I have learned so much in the past few years. 99.9% of it was from this forum. It's such a valuable resource.
 
I'm glad you are making progress.

What was my post related to?

It's very confusing when starting out.

I have learned so much in the past few years. 99.9% of it was from this forum. It's such a valuable resource.
Hey thanks, one guy literally had the same issue where he wasn't using a converter or upscaler for a consumer grade screen. Now I am making some plexiglass cases for my boards!
 
The Sync boost board, would that convert it to a VGA output? I'm considering picking up a retro CRT that has a VGA and I know that it's RGB.
 
The Sync boost board, would that convert it to a VGA output? I'm considering picking up a retro CRT that has a VGA and I know that it's RGB.
I'm guessing you are asking if the Sync Boost PCB converts RGBS to RGBHV. No, It doesn't.
 
OK cool, that's actually a bit better, the Sync it puts out would still be fine, I could still modify it to just have a mini-din input and stick the board somewhere inside the TV case
 
OK cool, that's actually a bit better, the Sync it puts out would still be fine, I could still modify it to just have a mini-din input and stick the board somewhere inside the TV case
The Sync Boost PCB is will not help your TV accept an RGBS signal unless it specifically requires TTL level csync, which is very very rare.
 
Had a question about the distortion I'm seeing across the top of the screen (see pic). The picture kind of does a lean to the right. Is this due to the retrogenesis upscaler I'm using? Would this be solved if I did an SCART to Y/Pr/Pb or SCART to HDMI converter? Would it make sense to eventually mod a analog TV set to take RGB and just wire a SCART connector directly in (a la RGB Mux technique)?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230604_215026101.jpg
    PXL_20230604_215026101.jpg
    226.3 KB · Views: 103
Had a question about the distortion I'm seeing across the top of the screen (see pic). The picture kind of does a lean to the right. Is this due to the retrogenesis upscaler I'm using? Would this be solved if I did an SCART to Y/Pr/Pb or SCART to HDMI converter? Would it make sense to eventually mod a analog TV set to take RGB and just wire a SCART connector directly in (a la RGB Mux technique)?
We don't have enough info to troubleshoot your distorted image problem. I can say, it is caused because the upscaler doesn't like the csync signal from the supergun. But is that because of a bad upscaler? Or an issue with your supergun? Or even a bad JAMMA board? Impossible to tell from the information you provided.
 
We don't have enough info to troubleshoot your distorted image problem. I can say, it is caused because the upscaler doesn't like the csync signal from the supergun. But is that because of a bad upscaler? Or an issue with your supergun? Or even a bad JAMMA board? Impossible to tell from the information you provided.
Ideally, you should find a small/cheap display that will accept the signal as-is.

If you live in an area where scart/RGB was never popular, there are very inexpensive scart to component devices that work well. You can also go with the hd retrovision Genesis cable.

Even if the display doesn't do 240p perfectly that usually only results in some things like shadows not working properly.

I have a tiny sharp LCD (that someone was throwing away) that I use to test my boards. It stores easily in my closet.

Or get a CRT with component input. An NTSC set will probably display CPS1 fine. I have not seen 1 that doesn't yet.
 
Dumb question, but just want to be sure. For a SCART cable, I want c-sync not luma?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top