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I did mention what power supply I had in my first post. Its a brand new Happ 15amp switching power supply from ArcadeShop. And I'm pretty sure I do need all the voltages it supplies cause I'm not just running a MisterCade I also have a BitKit and original Pac-man and Ms Pacman boards all running in a RiddleTV switcher. The MisterCade is the only board that has a problem with the power supply.
 
I wasn't saying you don't need 12v, just that it usually doesn't need to be adjustable ;)

However, I think this is why @misteraddons revised the MC board with the selectable voltage, I seem to remember there were more setups having issues with the 12v. Just too bad you have an early revision in this case.
 
I do notice the Happ power supply only list 2 amps for the 12v output so if the MisterCade needs more that could be why the voltage drops so much. I've got a lot of spare 12v supplies I use for my Christmas light show controllers so maybe I'll hook one of those up for just the 12v part.
 
ok cool, missed the bit about what PSU you where using ;)
But yes, it seems like the PSU just can't handle the current draw in that case, for any of the other working boards, what does the 12v drop to when you have the 5v set to 5v under load?
 
The issue might also be that the power supply does not start up because there is no load on the 5V.
 
The issue might also be that the power supply does not start up because there is no load on the 5V.

Maybe I misunderstand what you mean but the MisterCade is powering up and I can play games I just don't always have any sound. Pretty sure that means the power supply is starting up.
 
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Ok I think I might have solved the problem. Remember when I said I couldn’t get the sound working at all yesterday. Well today I was troubleshooting a Pac-Man board and when I put my good PCB in and tried to play a game I had no sound. So I was like WTF this is an original board. I look up and the wire had pulled out of the connector I had crimped it into. I crimped a new connector and zip tied the speaker wires to a nearby bundle and tried the MisterCade in the switcher and the sound about blew me down. Had to reach in and turn the pot down. So my theory is all that troubleshooting I was doing was only seeing changes cause I was probably touching those wires that were almost falling out.
 
That's a MiSTer thing - when it's powered on or reset no controls are active - it waits to receive an input from any attached controllers. The first control signal it receives assigns that controller as Player 1, and only after controller assignments will it respond to controls. That's why moving your joystick after startup gets it working - the joystick triggers MiSTer to assign that controller as Player 1. I'm guessing that the times it didn't work that you may have pushed another input somewhere else (Player 2 side perhaps?) that caused MiSTer to assign that side as Player 1 instead.

We discuss this further here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...e-mister-for-jamma-cabinets.19382/post-325835
Thanks for the suggestion.

Alas no other controls are pressed and the joysticks and buttons don’t function.

It seems it needs a waggle during the startup phase to register

Another strange behaviour I only get with mistercade is when defining controls. The first control needed to be entered is right but it often goes straight to left, seemingly registering the a button pressed to trigger the controls setup as the first input.

I have posted to @misteraddons but he hasn’t had a chance to respond yet.
 
I know when I powerup I have to hit Button one 4 times before it will enter the Arcade section.
 
The controls needing to be pressed a few times to register is a MiSTer thing. All USB HID devices work this way :)
 
The controls needing to be pressed a few times to register is a MiSTer thing. All USB HID devices work this way :)

I've got a real cabinet so I'm using real buttons and joysticks going into a JAMMA harness....there are no USB devices on my MisterCade.
 
Doesn't the mistercade use a USB bridge to connect to the DE10? If so, I imagine those are your USB controls.

Edit: random words got added in to my post; cleaned it up
 
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That might be so. Its not a big deal to me I was only mentioning it took me 4 button presses because someone else said one key press should register it as controller 1. Not sure why but mine seems to take 3 presses then the 4th one works.
 
Doesn't the mistercade convert the use a USB bridge to connect to the DE10? If so, I imagine those are your USB controls.
Yes.

Mistercade is a cool device, with a slick design, but it's only able to work with what the MiSTer hardware has. It converts your cab's controls to USB to talk to it, and it has to live with whatever limitations the base hardware has as far as recognizing buttons.

tbh I've never actually noticed this particular issue, maybe I have a habit of mashing start or something. I'll try and pay more attention.
 
I've finally gotten my Mistercade set up but I've noticed something odd with all of the Cave titles I've tried so far in that the Coin & Start buttons don't seem to be mapped correctly.

Currently I have the MiSTer menu combo set to Coin+Start and that works correctly but when I try and coin up, nothing happens. I got into the service menu for DoDonPachi and as far as the input check is concerned it looks like Coin is mapped to Start, and Start doesn't seem to be mapped to anything. Every other input seems to match up correctly though.

I tried Tapper to test something completely different and that seems to work correctly so it looks like just some games (only Cave?) have this issue.

Anyone else seen this? Is this something I can fix my end?
 
I believe the Cave games don't like having Coin+Start triggering simultaneously. Try mapping Coin and Start separately and see if that makes a difference.
 
Hi,
Does anyone have no video signal issue with HDMI output on DE10 after installing Mister? After installation it's still fine but once I powered off and powered on it's no longer has video signal.
The workaround I did to set up mistercade was to include update all script file after flashing SD card with Mr Fusion image so I can run the script after Mister installation done.
 
The mistercade.ini sets the output resolution to either 15khz (320x240 resolution) or 31khz (640x240) depending on the ini file you use, which isn't compatible with most HDMI displays. The MiSTer architecture doesn't allow for the HDMI to output at a different resolution than what is outputting on the GPIO pins that MiSTercade uses.
 
Good to know this info but the no video signal happened before I ran Update All script and copied the mistercade mister.ini file. So there was no master.ini file yet in the SD card (but there was a mister_old.ini if I remember correctly).
 
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I typo'd on my earlier post about the mister.ini file. The default mister.ini file that is in place with a fresh MiSTer installation sets the resolution to 1280x720 (720p) which most displays support. If you don't get any display from your HDMI port at that resolution then I'd make sure the HDMI cable is tight and perhaps try a different cable. The 320x240 or 640x480 resolution is after you replace the default mister.ini file with one of the ones pre-made for the MiSTercade.
 
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