Bigsingerdawg
Enthusiast
This is so great, been interested and following for some time! Can't wait
- Thread starter Hatsune Mike
- Start date
Hatsune Mike
Champion
I've got a huge pile of boards. There was a little bit of factory fun and there is a tiny amount of manual work on my end to make them ready. The Hirose JAMMA edges need to be soldered on, as do the audio transformers.
I made a tiny component clearance mistake so I had to trim two pins off every transformer in this wild session.
then it's a matter of testing, wrapping, and boxing.
This is a minor update, as the board is virtually the same as before, but here is what's different:
* The PCB is slightly larger than before to accommodate a better layout and easier handling.
* The male JAMMA edge itself has had its shape slightly improved, with longer fingers and better edge spacing.
* Both JAMMA edges have consistent patterned via placement, allowing for use as test or solder points.
* The audio transformer has been upgraded to one that should be slightly better on paper.
* The two knobs on the left are properly aligned.
* The video and sync buffer circuit has not been changed.
* This batch is red.
-----
Regarding video levels for the "RetroTink 5x":
I don't know anything about what the retrotink expects, but what you can do is just start with the video at the lowest level and turn it up until the amplitude is appropriate. I do not know if that device will get upset or take damage (??) if the video level is too high, but I would be surprised if so.
-----
Regarding 75 ohm resistors:
I am not sure what the question above really means, but the device does not feature 75 ohm termination. There are 75 ohm resistors in series in the output, expecting that many capture devices or monitors will have termination, but that does not affect the game PCB or original signaling.
-----
As for being on a list, I'd like to not do any more of that. It is frustrating for people who are on it to think of when it will be available, and it is also frustrating for me to parse and maintain. What I'd like to do is have these in a storefront, and give early access to people who had been on the list for a while. Then, completely do away with this ordered list procedure.
I made a tiny component clearance mistake so I had to trim two pins off every transformer in this wild session.
then it's a matter of testing, wrapping, and boxing.
This is a minor update, as the board is virtually the same as before, but here is what's different:
* The PCB is slightly larger than before to accommodate a better layout and easier handling.
* The male JAMMA edge itself has had its shape slightly improved, with longer fingers and better edge spacing.
* Both JAMMA edges have consistent patterned via placement, allowing for use as test or solder points.
* The audio transformer has been upgraded to one that should be slightly better on paper.
* The two knobs on the left are properly aligned.
* The video and sync buffer circuit has not been changed.
* This batch is red.
-----
Regarding video levels for the "RetroTink 5x":
I don't know anything about what the retrotink expects, but what you can do is just start with the video at the lowest level and turn it up until the amplitude is appropriate. I do not know if that device will get upset or take damage (??) if the video level is too high, but I would be surprised if so.
-----
Regarding 75 ohm resistors:
I am not sure what the question above really means, but the device does not feature 75 ohm termination. There are 75 ohm resistors in series in the output, expecting that many capture devices or monitors will have termination, but that does not affect the game PCB or original signaling.
-----
As for being on a list, I'd like to not do any more of that. It is frustrating for people who are on it to think of when it will be available, and it is also frustrating for me to parse and maintain. What I'd like to do is have these in a storefront, and give early access to people who had been on the list for a while. Then, completely do away with this ordered list procedure.
Ill take 2! 1 for streaming and 1 to potentially blow up my retrotink 5x for science. Should i PM u now for payment?I've got a huge pile of boards. There was a little bit of factory fun and there is a tiny amount of manual work on my end to make them ready. The Hirose JAMMA edges need to be soldered on, as do the audio transformers.
I made a tiny component clearance mistake so I had to trim two pins off every transformer in this wild session.
then it's a matter of testing, wrapping, and boxing.
This is a minor update, as the board is virtually the same as before, but here is what's different:
* The PCB is slightly larger than before to accommodate a better layout and easier handling.
* The male JAMMA edge itself has had its shape slightly improved, with longer fingers and better edge spacing.
* Both JAMMA edges have consistent patterned via placement, allowing for use as test or solder points.
* The audio transformer has been upgraded to one that should be slightly better on paper.
* The two knobs on the left are properly aligned.
* The video and sync buffer circuit has not been changed.
* This batch is red.
-----
Regarding video levels for the "RetroTink 5x":
I don't know anything about what the retrotink expects, but what you can do is just start with the video at the lowest level and turn it up until the amplitude is appropriate. I do not know if that device will get upset or take damage (??) if the video level is too high, but I would be surprised if so.
-----
Regarding 75 ohm resistors:
I am not sure what the question above really means, but the device does not feature 75 ohm termination. There are 75 ohm resistors in series in the output, expecting that many capture devices or monitors will have termination, but that does not affect the game PCB or original signaling.
-----
As for being on a list, I'd like to not do any more of that. It is frustrating for people who are on it to think of when it will be available, and it is also frustrating for me to parse and maintain. What I'd like to do is have these in a storefront, and give early access to people who had been on the list for a while. Then, completely do away with this ordered list procedure.
If any more changes happen, esp with PCB size changes, would it be possible to include thru holes some day? I've made mild attempts in creating a enclosure for the Splitfire and it's been challenging to come up with something without mounting points on the PCB.
Hatsune Mike
Champion
Actually, the very very very first version did have holes IIRC. I will consider it if there is room on a future revision (which I will make to correct my tiny clearance error).
Bigsingerdawg
Enthusiast
I'm down for a storefront and a code to access early, seems good to me. Want 2 of them! Glad to see this coming out!
i cant wait just need 1 but i cant wait! 
fatherpain
Professional
I’m down for a storefront. Asked to join the list a little while back. Hoping to get (1)
Thank you for all your hard work 
I'm grateful that you're keeping consideration for the prior posters, since I've been in for a while but I don't frequent the forums. Hopefully there's enough stock that it's not all sold out when I get a notification 
I'm grateful that you're keeping consideration for the prior posters, since I've been in for a while but I don't frequent the forums. Hopefully there's enough stock that it's not all sold out when I get a notification 
These look awesome @Hatsune Mike ! Please put me down for one (if available)
Yeah, first rev had holes for mounting (I’m using standoffs to secure it from stressing my pcb Jamma edge).
And that integrated LPF. Limited edition!
It took me a while, but I finally made a case that sorta works. I used the sides of the JAMMA connector as the mounting point for a few reasons, but mainly because I didn't have any other choice. I like that it has the added benefit of reinforcing the infamously fragile sides of the Hirose connector slot, although it was sadly too late for mine, since I had already damaged it well before I created this case. AFAIK there shouldn't be many clearance issues, except maybe some acrylic enclosures that extend past the JAMMA edge. It definitely works for stuff like the unusually restrictive CPS2, and the MiSTer JAMMA Expander. Although I included grooves on the sides of the case for easier removal, one unintentional benefit that I realized afterwards came from the opening I included for viewing the PCB logo. I can basically use the bottom of that opening as a handle, and pull on it to easily remove the Splitfire from a game PCB with even force. I'm sure anyone who uses this regularly knows how nice this is vs taking it out unevenly and damaging the edges of the connector (usually the dark, in a rush, late at night, on the floor under a cab... ask me how I know)
I'm certain there's a better, cleaner, smarter way of doing this (I definitely didn't follow the rule of KiSS here), but I had enough of staring at this and reprinting over and over for test fits and clearance...
I'm certain there's a better, cleaner, smarter way of doing this (I definitely didn't follow the rule of KiSS here), but I had enough of staring at this and reprinting over and over for test fits and clearance...
