Nanao MS8-29FSG Interference From The Wall Behind It

[Suzuki_Bison]

I have two Astro Cities that are side by side, up against a wall. Recently moved my game room around (with everything revolving around the placement of my cabinets) and SUPRISE- my P2 monitor does not like where it's placed. I did some troubleshooting by turning the cabinet 90 degrees clockwise, and the issue seemingly went away- but I need the cabinet to stay where it currently is. Any recommendations for a fix? I've read about EMI blocking sheets made of copper or similar material, lots are available on Amazon, just not sure if this is my best option?

Despite the cabinets being next to each other, the P1 cab has no issues from what I can tell. There are no speakers or anything below/next to either cab, other than a wall outlet behind it, about 1 foot off the floor. Pics below comparing P1 and P2.

 

[nem]

It doesn't go away when degaussed?

 

[Suzuki_Bison]

It doesn't go away when degaussed?

I don't have a Degaussing Wand yet, as I've never really needed one... maybe until now? I did flip the power on/off for a few minutes at a time, as I read this can help the monitor naturally degauss itself (?) but I haven't noticed a big change.

 

[nem]

MS8-29 doesn't automatically degauss on power on.

There's a demag button on the PSU that you use to manually degauss the monitor.

 

[Suzuki_Bison]

MS8-29 doesn't automatically degauss on power on.

There's a demag button on the PSU that you use to manually degauss the monitor.

Thank you- found it! However, when I push the button, nothing happens...

 

[TodoRojo]

Thank you- found it! However, when I push the button, nothing happens...

That’s because it’s not being used. That big amplifier/psu splitter on bottom is for a versus city. Someone just set it in there to use the power supply. I’m actually surprised it works like that. I assumed the PSU on those was not fully populated since the PCBs are slightly different

 

[Suzuki_Bison]

That’s because it’s not being used. That big amplifier/psu splitter on bottom is for a versus city. Someone just set it in there to use the power supply. I’m actually surprised it works like that. I assumed the PSU on those was not fully populated since the PCBs are slightly different

Whoa... The more you know! In that case, would it be worth buying a Degaussing Wand? Looks like new OS Astro PSUs are selling for around $2-300, which is fine but not sure if that's necessary, considering otherwise everything is working how it should be... (?) Appreciate the responses!

 

[nem]

This is easily fixed. You need to buy this connector:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176274-1/1152998

Then take a paperclip and remove the two red wires:

Then insert them into the 6-pin male connector, positions 4 and 5 (bottom row middle and right when looking from the back). The red wires will now go here:

Video on how to remove the pins:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcJUhtHCzfI

 

[Suzuki_Bison]

Thank you! Ordered!

 

[Suzuki_Bison]

This is easily fixed. You need to buy this connector:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176274-1/1152998

Then take a paperclip and remove the two red wires:

Then insert them into the 6-pin male connector, positions 4 and 5 (bottom row middle and right when looking from the back). The red wires will now go here:

Video on how to remove the pins:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcJUhtHCzfI

So one Amazon order later and I'm still finding the monitor isn't refreshing when I hit the Degauss button. I'll include some pics below so you can see how I hooked up the wires (I tried both wires in positions 5 and 6 just to make sure I didn't have anything crossed) and still nothing. Not sure if I'm missing something right in front of my face, or if perhaps the PSU never had the DEMAG button hooked up to begin with? Or if maybe I don't have the wires deep enough into the Molex or something? When I give them a tug, they don't budge, so I assume I have them in correctly.

I should also mention this monitor has never been serviced or had a re-cap done (to my knowledge). I'm planning on having it serviced hopefully next month, which if all else fails I may be able to investigate this issue further at that time and make sure there's nothing else going on...

 

[nem]

That is the wrong connector housing, not the one I linked to. Why did you order a different one? I'm surprised it even fits. What is it, Molex Mini-Fit Jr?

Anyway, if you want to try it out, you can just insert the contacts as is in to the female connector on the PSU. They won't stay in if you pull on the wires, but it will be good enough for a test. Order doesn't matter, one wire to one position. The button is just bridging the connection. It's 120VAC that will be going through it, so don't hold them in place with your fingers.

 

[Suzuki_Bison]

That is the wrong connector housing, not the one I linked to. Why did you order a different one? I'm surprised it even fits. What is it, Molex Mini-Fit Jr?

Anyway, if you want to try it out, you can just insert the contacts as is in to the female connector on the PSU. They won't stay in if you pull on the wires, but it will be good enough for a test. Order doesn't matter, one wire to one position. The button is just bridging the connection. It's 120VAC that will be going through it, so don't hold them in place with your fingers.

Sorry for the late update to anyone wondering- work has been nuts. Thank you for correcting me on this, to me it looked like Amazon had the same thing- nope. Never again will I make that mistake, lol. I ordered it straight from DigiKey (their shipping prices were reasonable and my order was quickly processed too) and BOOM, the problem (at least from what I can tell) is solved. Degaussing worked as it should, and the issue seems to have disappeared. Thank you again for all your responses and assistance with this, I really appreciate it man.