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Frank_fjs

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I feel there's a void for this device. A few worthy options exist but they are pricey and difficult to purchase, especially for people outside of the USA.

So, I'd like to see if we can do something about it and create an open sourced PCB so that a PC Engine RGB amp with accurate video output levels is accessible to all.

There's not much to it really, components and circuitry is dead simple and I've got a fairly decent grasp of the values required but would love some input from anyone whose spent some serious time on the subject. I need to dig through some notes I have saved somewhere from Tim Worthington who provided some starting values of the resistors / capacitors required to get as close to 0.7vpp as possible given the odd output of the Hudson video chip.

THS7374, voltage divider and 0.1uF decoupling caps on input - DC restoration caps and impedance resistors on output.

Anyone have any advice, information to share?
 
Great idea, considering the device the RGB police recommend isn't available for purchase outside of the US. +1 if it gets done!
 
I've always used the mickris rgb amp without issue. Used to buy it direct from him on the pcenginefx forums before they shut down. He was always willing to ship with a low rate internationally and discounted for buying more than one amp at a time.

But it seems console5 has them in kit form for a reasonable price.

Only thing I noticed between his and voultar's is that this one does NOT do anything with sync (means you're using composite video for sync), whereas voultar's does something to process csync.


The one thing I'd love for a new rgb amp for the PCE/TG16 to do would be to properly fix the sync. Without setting VCR/AFC mode, BVMs have issues with it (bend/warping at the top of the screen). And the BVM-D14H5 doesn't even allow for that, so can't play it on my smaller screen.
 
I tend to like to keep the original functionality of the console and utilise composite video as sync.

I think a newly made amp should perhaps include a switch to alternate between csync processed from the Hudson chip or native composite video.

I'll start whipping something up. Mickcris has released some info on the attenuation he uses so I'll use that info as a starting point.

I have a Doujindance modded (butchered) console that I really need to rework.
 
Started preliminary work on this.

Would love some help!

82241891_579629529251004_1937141069242171392_n.png
 
i have a rgb modded duo-r sitting around which started acting up if you wand i would gladly test your rgb amp with it ;)
 
i have a rgb modded duo-r sitting around which started acting up if you wand i would gladly test your rgb amp with it ;)
Thanks, done!

Does your current amp process sync or use composite video as sync?
 
i'll send you a photo of the mod, but i think it processes sync as well - i can try to revert that if thats necessary (anything as long as i don't need to go directly on the legs of the HU6260 and can use the wires of the existing mod :saint: )

On the other hand my soldering got much better since then...
 
If there's 4 wires soldered to the Hu then sync is processed. Will also mean that composite video via a stock standard AV cable no longer functions.

Either way the mod is able to be applied without needing to touch the soldering on the Hu.
 
@Frank_fjs here's the current mod, it worked fine in the beginning but now it seems like the blue channel got much weaker - the whole picture has a reddish tint (i recapped the system last year...)


IMG_2692.jpg
 

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@Frank_fjs will this board work on the IFU suitcase? If so, I'm open to you using my setup for testing... Was trying to buy @jassin000 setup for his lovely mod (and Castlevania) but didn't hear back / he doesn't like shipping to Australia!
 
I'm not sure. I believe for optimal operation the circuit needs to be slightly different to account for additional interference and I'm not sure if space constraints will be an issue.
 
@MoppelTheWhale

Not sure what's going on there. Possible that there's a loose solder joint on the blue DIN or the actual pin has dislodged slightly and loosened?
 
I love Voultar's stuff for the overlay solder, just align the pins and go. His IFU30 AMP is flawless.

@djsheep I hate all international shipping not just AUS. They make me fill out this forum stating value and all kinds of other bullshit.
Fuck off post office, I don't have time to feed you what is most likely lies anyway.
 
Nice! That’s the exact board I had installed before. I fell on hard times a while back and sold my 800 line PVM (never to get another again) and then I sold my IFU thinking I’ll never get another PVM. I now have 3 monitors with lesser lines, but I think they actually look better anyhow. I might just get this again.
 
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