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corruptedexe

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Hi I have a neo geo 4 slot cab and was looking to replace the joysticks and buttons with sanwa parts as that's what I'm used to how difficult of a swap would that be the buttons seem easy the joystick wiring not so much
 
It's definitely not hard. That said, why don't you post a picture of your control panel wiring so we can see what you're working with.

The buttons are a simple one to one swap. The joystick wiring between the two is compatible, it's just a matter of what your harness looks like. You may have to cut and splice some wires, that's as difficult as it would get.
 
Depending on the stick, you may need one of those universal brackets to reach the screw posts. I had to do that to replace my 2 slot stick to a Seimetsu
 
Nobody can help you if you don't post pictures or more details. A "4 slot cab" is kind of meaningless, it could be anything. Is it an "American style" wood cab for instance? That's going to be harder. The button holes will be too small for Sanwas, and the panel thickness will be wrong for a JLF, which are meant for thinner metal panel mounting.

Wiring is easy. There is no such thing as "bad" wiring in this case, don't be scared of it. But we can't walk you through the steps without seeing what we're working with.
 
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I have a standard US 4-slot big red cab with the stereo speakers at the top. Here's what I bought:

IL PSL-H Concave Short Stem Pushbutton - Blue
(E-Switch, Cherry Microswitch or No Switch: Cherry D44X (75g))
IL-PSLH-CAVE-BLUE2$3.75 USD
$7.50 USD
IL PSL-H Concave Short Stem Pushbutton - Green
(E-Switch, Cherry Microswitch or No Switch: Cherry D44X (75g))
IL-PSLH-CAVE-GRN2$3.75 USD
$7.50 USD
IL PSL-H Concave Short Stem Pushbutton - Red
(E-Switch, Cherry Microswitch or No Switch: Cherry D44X (75g))
IL-PSLH-CAVE-RED2$3.75 USD
$7.50 USD
IL PSL-H Concave Short Stem Pushbutton - White
(E-Switch, Cherry Microswitch or No Switch: Cherry D44X (75g))
IL-PSLH-CAVE-WHITE3$3.75 USD
$11.25 USD
IL PSL-H Concave Short Stem Pushbutton - Yellow
(E-Switch, Cherry Microswitch or No Switch: Cherry D44X (75g))
IL-PSLH-CAVE-YELLOW2$3.75 USD
$7.50 USD
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick
(Add Compatible Battop? Sanwa LB-30 N-S: Black, Add Compatible Shaft & Dustwasher? Black (save 50 cents), Add Compatible Mounting Plate? KOWAL Flat Plate Converter)
SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT2$36.40 USD
$72.80 USD

The Sanwa sticks don't use the standard Happ connector, so as others mentioned, I had to just solder the wires together to connect the sticks. Also, the Japanese stick covers don't fit US CP's, so I have both types of covers in there currently.

The reason I chose this stick is because it was one of the only Japanese sticks I could find with a ball top (to complete the look of an original MVS cab).

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7-K_y9CbRY
 
Nobody can help you if you don't post pictures or more details. A "4 slot cab" is kind of meaningless, it could be anything. Is it an "American style" wood cab for instance? That's going to be harder. The button holes will be too small for Sanwas, and the panel thickness will be wrong for a JLF, which are meant for thinner metal panel mounting.

Wiring is easy. There is no such thing as "bad" wiring in this case, don't be scared of it. But we can't walk you through the steps without seeing what we're working with.
Ya it's a US big red with the speaker son top I just haven't had time to post pics or go further since works been crazy with covid
 

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Okay, so the short answer is it's possible, but not gonna be the easiest process. Those button holes are too small for Japanese parts, you'll have to drill them out to 30mm, they're about 28mm right now. (1 ⅛")

That's not the easiest drilling job, I wouldn't personally attempt it without a drill press. Which I have, but it's not the most common tool in most households. Might be able to step drill or use a punch, I honestly don't know what's best for this, enlarging each hole by 2mm without wrecking the panel might take a little finesse.

The joystick part is easier at least, you'll need this adapter plate: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/products/universal-il-adapter-plate

For the wiring you'll need a standard JLF harness: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/products/sanwa-jlf-h-wiring-harness?_pos=1&_sid=2b7a3d1bf&_ss=r

And then will need to cut the existing wires, strip them, put a little shrink tube over them, solder to the harness wires, and then heat the shrink tube to seal where you connected the bare wiring. This is very easy, and nothing to be scared of. If you're going to own a cab and do this level of modification you definitely want to own a soldering iron and should learn the basics of using it.
 
My non-solicited opinion: Keep the Happ buttons, it's what's original & correct. If the buttons or stick are beat up, they are easily had. A complete set is around $50.
 
My non-solicited opinion: Keep the Happ buttons, it's what's original & correct. If the buttons or stick are beat up, they are easily had. A complete set is around $50.
Yeah, that's what I did. I couldn't use the stick, so I replaced it with something more familiar for me.
 
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