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DCrosby

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So I wanted to be able to enable / disable free-play regardless of the rom's view on the matter, and since all roms are set to default to play with coins, some people have suggested a button in place of the "Bolt" Next to the coin return.

Screenshot 2022-04-08 213358.jpg

I like the idea in principle, but as another person found out, it's quite deep and a pain to get a Nice Looking/Fitting switch to make it look authentic.
So we're in the new millennium and I would think a touch button would be more appropriate and not kill the authenticity/originality of the cab. Not to mention any gluing or permanent changes.
So I was looking for some of those switches they had back in the '90s where you touched a lamp and you could change the brightness, and that could work, but wasn't really what I wanted since I could care less about brightness I needed to toggle a relay to give me 1 coin.

So I found these modules, (They run off 2.3-5.5v so perfect for our use case) and I'll leave a e-bay link but as this thread ages most likely this will have been gone, so I'll leave an image and possibly a model / description so you can still find these down the line.

TTP223 Capacitive Touch Sensor​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254967179129
Screenshot 2022-04-08 213607.jpg

What I did is place the "Touch" area behind the 100yen sign, and with the thickness of the plastic and all, it's really not that easy to "Accidentally" touch it, which was an issue when I tried to extend the wire from the touch pad to the bolt. Which is how I'd like to do it, but for now this works, and I may update the thread in the future. (Hint Hint Read the entire thing) :D
Screenshot 2022-04-08 214200.jpg
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I then hooked up a relay module, if you want to make this even smaller I'd solder an opto to the output and you'd get what I have.
20220408_211010.jpg
And now anytime someone touches the 100yen sign they get 1 coin.
Feel free to ask any questions on what / how I did something if it's not clear, this is meant to be followed/reproduced, so if it's not clear, I'd like to clarify it.
 
Definitely going to give this a shot.

My neighbors kid has the time of his life on my candy cabs but last time he got excited by the 100JPY coins and jammed my coin slots (he's like 10, we've all done it lol)
 
Definitely going to give this a shot.

My neighbors kid has the time of his life on my candy cabs but last time he got excited by the 100JPY coins and jammed my coin slots (he's like 10, we've all done it lol)
What's nice is I have this just jammed into the coin mech pins, so it's easily removable, but the coin mech switch and the touch button are wired in parallel. So you pull on one of the jumper wires and you're back to only taking coins.

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Nice, I figured I would do something similar or a dpdt. My net city that I made my own JAMMA setup in while retaining JVS has a dpdt on the coin slot to switch JVS/JAMMA.
 
My cabs are usually set to freeplay, but heavily heavily considering wiring some of these up and replacing the sticker with something that says "Fightcade button" so my players know to spam coin noises lmao

This idea rocks though for sure- love seeing no-cut solutions for any cab upgrades/additions.
 
I was thinking it could be cool to put something like this, on the panel on the buttom for the test and select buttons, so you don't have to open the cab... but I think that all depends on your situation of where it's located and if you care to remove the locking mechanism or not...
 
I like to keep my games on Free Play. But when I swap between titles on my wipi, the settings are all defaulted, requiring me to enter test mode to reset. I ended up putting a momentary switch to just "add" coins in. I wanted some type of capacitive setup, but I wasn't sure how to go about it. I may give this a shot.
20211221_172657.jpg
 
I like to keep my games on Free Play. But when I swap between titles on my wipi, the settings are all defaulted, requiring me to enter test mode to reset. I ended up putting a momentary switch to just "add" coins in. I wanted some type of capacitive setup, but I wasn't sure how to go about it. I may give this a shot.
20211221_172657.jpg
It might have been your write-up on the switch with the depth issue, that I was lookng at when I decided on the capacitive approach. But I have not yet tested my theory of removing the connection for the built-in pad, and then moving that to the "Bolt" on the CP... like I said I have some thoughts/theories on how to accomplish that, if I come up with anything easily replicated I'll post it here.

I also have a net-dimm so I'm in a similar boat, unless someone re-releases them all to default to free play, this may be the easiest approach...
 
So I was able to get it to work as I wanted to, I don't know how "Easy" this is... it depends on your soldering skill... and what you have on hand... I didn't have any 30-50uf capacitors laying around, I had a couple of 10uf ones, so I looked up how they behave in series and in paralell... they sum up to their total when put in parallel.. so I soldered them up, de-soldered / knocked off the original surface mount. Then used a little bit of a scratch pen, to expose the traces, and soldered the cap abomination to it...

I then also severed the trace to the pad on the bottom, and added a kaynar wire to the trace, so I could feed it to the bolt.
Screenshot 2022-04-10 070602.jpg
In my original testing I would get close to the wire, and because of the lack of insulation on the tiny wire, it would fire there too, so I made it as short as I could, and you can see it does trigger when I get really close to it, but I have to be within less than 1/2 a cm to trigger it... Also in my original tests it would sense my hand from 10-20cm away, which wasn't what I wanted... I wanted it to be deliberate... Didn't need to be 100% contact only, maybe doing closer to 50uf would have been more contact only... but for me 40uf worked...
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Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3K9n8qwKZVog42iE6

I have a couple of other "Test Units" on order, these came first, if others are better to mod or less sensitive I'll post any updates.

(Also note I printed a wider coin slot for myself, so I could use quarters, I ended up taking that out once I had the button all taped up, and secured to the bottom.)
 
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