New small multi Rastan / Rainbow Island!

Double check all the pins are sitting in the sockets.

If you put the original ROMs and PAL back in does the original still work? (I assume you tested the board was working ok before)
 
Double check all the pins are sitting in the sockets.

If you put the original ROMs and PAL back in does the original still work? (I assume you tested the board was working ok before)
It was working at the beginning, before the socket installation. Then I tested the game with the socket and I had the same white screen (with few peace of sprits). I thought maybe the pal is dead, so anyway we must swap it to the gal. I installed the multi but same result, bad luck. Do you have an idea of what chip might be faulty ?
 
If you undo the process and put back your roms and the pal does rastan work again?
 
then something went wrong when socketing that PAL. Take it to someone that can repair PCBs to fix it or get a new rastan if you can.
 
this ps is for : @raffy92 … and other interested collectors for this multi .
- for the easiest method of the multi installation and to not risk to lift or damanging any traces or vias during removing IC11 ( B04-09 - is dumped and can be writed on gals 16v8b , file is on pld archive) , the better is to cut every pins of ic11 and then remove the lins from vias with tweezer and soldering iron and then clear vias with desoldering pump or desoldering braid
 
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this ps is for : @raffy92 … and other interested collectors for this multi .
- for the easiest method of the multi installation and to not risk to lift or damanging any traces or vias during removing IC11 ( B04-09 - is dumped and can be writed on gals 16v8b , file is on pld archive) , the better is to cut every pins of ic11 and then remove the lins from vias with tweezer and soldering iron and then clear vias with desoldering pump or desoldering braid
Thank you, but too late. I desolder each pins then using hot air, I popped the chip out using a tool as a lever. I should protect the other chips while heating and air nozzles on the heat gun. How do you do when you want to keep the chip ?
 
How do you do when you want to keep the chip ?
firstly reflow with new fresh solder each pin of the chip and then use a desoldering gun like hakko 301 and put on pins and make a rotation moving on the pins and wiggle every pin (at least when the solder is sucked by the gun the pin is free and then you can try to move it little bit until you see is free— i dont know how to explain better) . but sometimes i choose to not risk by using it . idk , maybe i dont have enough skills to remove the chips .

Anyway , if i have suspicions , i use the multimeter on vias to be sure is not broken trace in the vias. you can practice little bit on a test board or broken one to remove components to see how goes with desoldering gun 🤷🏻

a relevant videos can be these ones :

here is to see what means by reflowing pins before using desoldering gun:

View: https://youtu.be/aL5hPqZx-MM?is=RjWlO4qAmZimE8zR

and here is with hakko 301

View: https://youtu.be/2XuoM3Dx7N4?is=r1QahmjZdNkes1hJ
 
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Thank you, but too late. I desolder each pins then using hot air, I popped the chip out using a tool as a lever. I should protect the other chips while heating and air nozzles on the heat gun. How do you do when you want to keep the chip ?
The only solution I can provide you for not bothering @Darksoft (only if you don't archieve to repair it) is that you send me game with the multi and repair any broken traces
 
The only solution I can provide you for not bothering @Darksoft (only if you don't archieve to repair it) is that you send me game with the multi and repair any broken traces
No it is fine thank you. the board is very clean I should be able to found the problem by myself. If not I will bring the board, with the original setup to either beep, makjapan or tops.
 
firstly reflow with new fresh solder each pin of the chip and then use a desoldering gun like hakko 301 and put on pins and make a rotation moving on the pins and wiggle every pin (at least when the solder is sucked by the gun the pin is free and then you can try to move it little bit until you see is free— i dont know how to explain better) . but sometimes i choose to not risk by using it . idk , maybe i dont have enough skills to remove the chips .

Anyway , if i have suspicions , i use the multimeter on vias to be sure is not broken trace in the vias. you can practice little bit on a test board or broken one to remove components to see how goes with desoldering gun 🤷🏻

a relevant videos can be these ones :

here is to see what means by reflowing pins before using desoldering gun:

View: https://youtu.be/aL5hPqZx-MM?is=RjWlO4qAmZimE8zR

and here is with hakko 301

View: https://youtu.be/2XuoM3Dx7N4?is=r1QahmjZdNkes1hJ
ok, I did the reflow on each pin but then I used a Desoldering pump with iron and soldering braid I don’t have desoldering gun. What kind of tin are you using ?
 
firstly reflow with new fresh solder each pin of the chip and then use a desoldering gun like hakko 301 and put on pins and make a rotation moving on the pins and wiggle every pin (at least when the solder is sucked by the gun the pin is free and then you can try to move it little bit until you see is free— i dont know how to explain better) . but sometimes i choose to not risk by using it . idk , maybe i dont have enough skills to remove the chips .

Anyway , if i have suspicions , i use the multimeter on vias to be sure is not broken trace in the vias. you can practice little bit on a test board or broken one to remove components to see how goes with desoldering gun 🤷🏻

a relevant videos can be these ones :

here is to see what means by reflowing pins before using desoldering gun:

View: https://youtu.be/aL5hPqZx-MM?is=RjWlO4qAmZimE8zR

and here is with hakko 301

View: https://youtu.be/2XuoM3Dx7N4?is=r1QahmjZdNkes1hJ
Which model of the desoldering gun do you recommend : the 81 or 82 ? I read that the 82 can prevent some potential damage on the board because some mal function of the 81 with the ground has been corrected
 
Which model of the desoldering gun do you recommend : the 81 or 82 ? I read that the 82 can prevent some potential damage on the board because some mal function of the 81 with the ground has been corrected
hakko 301 - and im using the tip that came with the gun equiped in the box … is good for arcades and such .
 
hakko 301 - and im using the tip that came with the gun equiped in the box … is good for arcades and such .
But here in Japan there are Hakko 301 -81 and the new one 82. I am just asking whether you know if the new one is good or not
 
Do they do repairs or would they help install multi for customers. Genuinely curious to know?
They don’t even know what is a multi. I tried once to explain them when I was looking for a cps2 game suitable for multi so I wanted to see the pcb number, etc… then I understood this people working in those shops are still living in nineties. I think they don’t like what comes from abroad. If i bring a board with a multi on it to répare, they will tell me to remove the multi set the board as it was originally and it will works.
I know they can repare arcade pcb and it is explained on their websites but I am not sure about their skills. I don’t think they can repare anything like rep-arcade or Caius
 
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