jbrochu1985
Beginner
Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help diagnosing a compatibility issue with Nintendo arcade boards on my cabinet setup.
I have two Nintendo PCBs — Donkey Kong (2-board stack) and Mario Bros — both using the PCB Junkie Nintendo-to-JAMMA adapter.
I own both a Jammafier v1 and a Jammafier v2 (the one with the integrated tri-sync support).
My cabinet is a Konami Windy II with the Toshiba chassis.
All my other JAMMA and JVS PCBs work flawlessly, including ones using PCB Junkie adapters (Galaga, System 16, Nibbler).
I also have a Nintendo Vs. System PCB, and that one has never given me any issues on the same setup.
Measured at the JAMMA edge with nothing connected (pre-load values):
I know these are high without a load, so I usually dial down once a PCB is connected — but mentioning it here in case Nintendo boards are more sensitive to the initial surge or the Jammafier handles power differently compared to the HAS.
I’m trying to figure out whether this is:
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I have two Nintendo PCBs — Donkey Kong (2-board stack) and Mario Bros — both using the PCB Junkie Nintendo-to-JAMMA adapter.
I own both a Jammafier v1 and a Jammafier v2 (the one with the integrated tri-sync support).
Symptoms
- Donkey Kong: no boot at all on the Windy II (no video, no startup signs).
- Mario Bros: boots but shows severe graphical glitches (see picture).
- Both boards work perfectly on a HAS Supergun → Retrotink 5X → consumer TV.
My cabinet is a Konami Windy II with the Toshiba chassis.
All my other JAMMA and JVS PCBs work flawlessly, including ones using PCB Junkie adapters (Galaga, System 16, Nibbler).
I also have a Nintendo Vs. System PCB, and that one has never given me any issues on the same setup.
Power Measurements
Measured at the JAMMA edge with nothing connected (pre-load values):
- +5V = 5.5V
- +12V = 12.2V
I know these are high without a load, so I usually dial down once a PCB is connected — but mentioning it here in case Nintendo boards are more sensitive to the initial surge or the Jammafier handles power differently compared to the HAS.
Questions / Possible Causes
- Could Donkey Kong / Mario Bros be sensitive to overvoltage at boot, especially through the Jammafier?
- Sync level mismatch? Nintendo’s early hardware uses oddball composite sync, and the HAS might be more forgiving than the Jammafier.
- RGB inversion / attenuation differences between the HAS and the Jammafier?
- Could the Windy II’s Toshiba chassis be less tolerant to early Nintendo sync levels or polarity?
- Grounding or edge connector alignment issue specific to the 2-board stack design?
I’m trying to figure out whether this is:
- a Jammafier quirk,
- a Windy II compatibility issue,
- or something inherent to early Nintendo PCBs.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.