Nintendo PCBs not booting correctly on Windy II (Jammafier v1/v2)

jbrochu1985

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Hi everyone, I’m looking for some help diagnosing a compatibility issue with Nintendo arcade boards on my cabinet setup.


I have two Nintendo PCBs — Donkey Kong (2-board stack) and Mario Bros — both using the PCB Junkie Nintendo-to-JAMMA adapter.
I own both a Jammafier v1 and a Jammafier v2 (the one with the integrated tri-sync support).


Symptoms​


  • Donkey Kong: no boot at all on the Windy II (no video, no startup signs).
  • Mario Bros: boots but shows severe graphical glitches (see picture).
  • Both boards work perfectly on a HAS Supergun → Retrotink 5X → consumer TV.

My cabinet is a Konami Windy II with the Toshiba chassis.
All my other JAMMA and JVS PCBs work flawlessly, including ones using PCB Junkie adapters (Galaga, System 16, Nibbler).
I also have a Nintendo Vs. System PCB, and that one has never given me any issues on the same setup.


Power Measurements​


Measured at the JAMMA edge with nothing connected (pre-load values):


  • +5V = 5.5V
  • +12V = 12.2V

I know these are high without a load, so I usually dial down once a PCB is connected — but mentioning it here in case Nintendo boards are more sensitive to the initial surge or the Jammafier handles power differently compared to the HAS.


Questions / Possible Causes​


  • Could Donkey Kong / Mario Bros be sensitive to overvoltage at boot, especially through the Jammafier?
  • Sync level mismatch? Nintendo’s early hardware uses oddball composite sync, and the HAS might be more forgiving than the Jammafier.
  • RGB inversion / attenuation differences between the HAS and the Jammafier?
  • Could the Windy II’s Toshiba chassis be less tolerant to early Nintendo sync levels or polarity?
  • Grounding or edge connector alignment issue specific to the 2-board stack design?

I’m trying to figure out whether this is:


  1. a Jammafier quirk,
  2. a Windy II compatibility issue,
  3. or something inherent to early Nintendo PCBs.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I’m not familiar with that cabinet but maybe the PSU doesn’t supply -5V.
Here are the voltage measurements I took. I checked the Jammafier with no load, then with Mario Bros connected, and I also compared it to my HAS Supergun with the same board.


Jammafier (no load):


  • +5V: 5.499V
  • –5V: –5.441V
  • +12V: 12.31V

Jammafier (with Mario Bros connected):


  • +5V: 5.2V
  • +5V (2nd test point): 5.2V
  • +12V: 12.20V
  • –5V: –3.3V

HAS Supergun (with Mario Bros):


  • +5V: 5.034V
  • +5V (2nd test point): 5.0V
  • +12V: 14.52V
  • –5V: –4.62V

So the HAS seems to deliver a cleaner and more stable +5V under load compared to the cabinet PSU → Jammafier combination, which might explain why Donkey Kong and Mario Bros behave normally on the Supergun but not in the Windy II setup.
 
Maybe just one side of the harness has -5v populated and you can add another or use larger wire. Could be a limitation of the PSU supply current as well.
 
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