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Official Interest list for Namco NA System Multi by Hammy (PCB design by Caius Arcade Repairs & Engineering)

twistedsymphony said:
Solder wont stick to corrosion and if the board is too far gone that could be your issue. There's a definitely a trick to it. I had similar issues the first one I tried but I've recapped 8 or 10 of these boards now and got it down to a pretty easy work flow.

Start by removing ALL of the caps, even if they look ok next you want to completely cover the effected area with Flux. Specifically an SMD cleaning flux. I used RMA-223 or NC-559-ASM per the recommendation of some others here on the forum. put the flux down and heat it up, be sure to touch the pads with the iron so that they're heated. the flux will bond and lift out the corrosive elements. you'll know it's working if the flux darkens and starts to look like molasses. Clean up the flux and solder with solder wick, then you go over it with IPA to flush away the remaining dirty flux.

Repeat this process until the flux remains clear when heated, then you'll know you got all of the garbage out of it.
you can see this technique in action here (along with some much more advanced techniques)
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx50YtEC2S8
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hi : twisted

Oh a private video? hmmm!

regards
euphoria
🙃
 
Not my video, a real shame that video was made private it was the best one I'd ever seen for demonstrating the technique.
 
JohnRambo'sKnife said:
Does anyone have a list of the dip settings per game. Went through the entire thread but perhaps I missed it.
Click to expand...
It's in the manual on page 1, here's a copy:

Game Selection:
The dips below will be correct when using the ROM mapping described above.
(Dip 4 is used to switch between game highscore/settings banks, 2 for each game)
D1 2 3 Game
0 0 0 Emeraldia
0 0 1 F/A
0 1 0 Exvania
0 1 1 Knuckle Heads
1 0 0 Cosmo Gang
1 0 1 Super World Court
1 1 0 Tinkle Pit
1 1 1 Numan Athletics

Each game has it's own test mode with soft dips.
You can save 2 sets of settings by toggling bank 4.
 
Is it still possible to get one of these multi? :)

Just got a mobo recapped with a Numan Athletics and looking to expand with some of the other games.
 
Question for anyone with original hardware. I noticed there are some rows missing from the video output on the top and bottom.

Attached is a comparison of the Hammy multi running F/A and the Recalbox running F/A. You will notice that the score lines are not all visible on the original hardware. Is this normal?
 

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I don't know. The multi is the only original hardware I have, so this may be just how all the original hardware is. Doubt it is multi specific, but maybe it is just my chassis?
 
I think that's just how the board is, the only way graphics errors would be involved with the multi would be from bad roms.

The fine pin graphics chip can also go loose from capacitor leaks, but usually that will stop the PCB running.
 
Yeah, I don't think it it has anything to do with the multi and you thankfully had recapped this motherboard for me already.
 
Just out of curiosity is there a way to add a capacitor to the multi? Like the og romboard?
 
Hi, is it possible to purchase the Multi PCB? It's been a while since it was created, and I have a few Super World Court PCB that I wanted to convert for other games.

I have another question: when using your Multi PCB, can I just insert the F/A ROM and use it exclusively?
 
rtw said:
To paraphrase a certain someone: Winner Winner Chicken Dinner :D

The multi arrived today and I hastened to get all EPROMs burned.
Very solid piece of kit, easy to assemble and worked flawlessly.

Good job all around @Hammy :thumbsup:

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Looking at @rtw pictures above, seems like the top lines are not cutoff. Anyone else with this hardware able to verify? Could this be a NA1/NA2 main board difference?
 
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