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Solder wont stick to corrosion and if the board is too far gone that could be your issue. There's a definitely a trick to it. I had similar issues the first one I tried but I've recapped 8 or 10 of these boards now and got it down to a pretty easy work flow.

Start by removing ALL of the caps, even if they look ok next you want to completely cover the effected area with Flux. Specifically an SMD cleaning flux. I used RMA-223 or NC-559-ASM per the recommendation of some others here on the forum. put the flux down and heat it up, be sure to touch the pads with the iron so that they're heated. the flux will bond and lift out the corrosive elements. you'll know it's working if the flux darkens and starts to look like molasses. Clean up the flux and solder with solder wick, then you go over it with IPA to flush away the remaining dirty flux.

Repeat this process until the flux remains clear when heated, then you'll know you got all of the garbage out of it.
you can see this technique in action here (along with some much more advanced techniques)
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx50YtEC2S8
hi : twisted

Oh a private video? hmmm!

regards
euphoria
🙃
 
Not my video, a real shame that video was made private it was the best one I'd ever seen for demonstrating the technique.
 
Does anyone have a list of the dip settings per game. Went through the entire thread but perhaps I missed it.
It's in the manual on page 1, here's a copy:

Game Selection:
The dips below will be correct when using the ROM mapping described above.
(Dip 4 is used to switch between game highscore/settings banks, 2 for each game)
D1 2 3 Game
0 0 0 Emeraldia
0 0 1 F/A
0 1 0 Exvania
0 1 1 Knuckle Heads
1 0 0 Cosmo Gang
1 0 1 Super World Court
1 1 0 Tinkle Pit
1 1 1 Numan Athletics

Each game has it's own test mode with soft dips.
You can save 2 sets of settings by toggling bank 4.
 
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