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Fluffy

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Here is one I've been thinking about for a while: A dedicated supergun for PGM consolization:

PgmConsole.png


This is exactly the same size as the PGM motherboard with matching mounting holes. Power and SCART at the back, joypad and test/power buttons at the front, together with extra connectors for player 3 and 4. A smal daughterboard with JAMMA connector redirects all signals to the base and provides power to the motherboard. No soldering required other than to grab the stereo signals before they go into the amplifier.

You would just stack it up with some spacers, maybe with an acrylic base plate for protection.

I still have to verify all footprints and finalise the schematic. I've got to measure the video output levels, if I need an RGB amplifier, and decide on power supply.

Not sure when I've got time to finish this, though... (so I wouldn't be totally cross if someone else made this, or created an equivalent for MVS-1FZ. ;) There is even a 4 player adapter for MVS, even though only one game supports it...)

Edit: Updated image. Tweaked placements, added Mega Drive AV connector, removed stereo amplifier. I'll probably add a 5V regulator, though I have to measure what the motherboard needs. I'll probably maximise the internal cutout once I've done the routing. You could probably cut it into two PCBs, but then you'd need extra cabling.
 
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KalessinDB

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Lions3 makes a plexi base plate already, I use it so I don't cut my hands on the solder side every time I change carts (holy crap the motherboard holds them tight)

I would love one of these, especially if you could leave the jamma edge exposed so it could be used either way.
 

Fluffy

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I would love one of these, especially if you could leave the jamma edge exposed so it could be used either way.
I played a bit with the PCB outline and layout. Fitting a JAMMA edge to the PCB will overlap with some mounting holes. So there are two options: I plan to attach the JAMMA breakout board vertically to reduce the amount it sticks out in front, alternatively it could be attached horizontally and just have a second JAMMA edge. The other option is to not expose the JAMMA edge, and just unplug the breakout board. It gets connected with an IDC cable to the base board, so should be flexible enough.
 

KalessinDB

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I played a bit with the PCB outline and layout. Fitting a JAMMA edge to the PCB will overlap with some mounting holes. So there are two options: I plan to attach the JAMMA breakout board vertically to reduce the amount it sticks out in front, alternatively it could be attached horizontally and just have a second JAMMA edge. The other option is to not expose the JAMMA edge, and just unplug the breakout board. It gets connected with an IDC cable to the base board, so should be flexible enough.
Somehow I missed the fact that you're using a breakout board. I'd say that's totally cool then, long as it's something I wouldn't need to use tools to do if/when I wanted to switch between the two.

Although honestly it sounds like the "second jamma edge" option is almost like having it be a pass-thru, which would be cool too, guess it would just depend on what you think works best.
 

Fluffy

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This is what I have in mind:
JammaBreakout.jpg


I still need to mirror it and make sure all signals line up correctly. I'll probably use a different power connector as well, it is a bit of a pain to preview these in KiCad.
 

Fluffy

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Current plan:

IMG_20201221_200313_s.jpg


Still need to decide on power and buttons... The right angle connector seems to be a good match, though obviously a simple shielded connector or just a row of pin headers would work exactly the same (and be a lot cheaper).
 

Fluffy

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I've got a first prototype of the breakout board:
IMG_20201223_195544_s.jpg


It attaches like this, and moves the signals to the bottom of the PCB.
IMG_20201223_195628_s.jpg

There seems to be a very slight bend in the PCB, probably from thermal expansion of the pins during soldering, and shrinking when it cooled... I could try a suitable spacer to prevent this.

Of course, as soon as production started I already made a new revision that includes a power LED... Also I decided to use slots for the JAMMA connector instead of holes, to cut down on solder required.
 
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ic3b4ll

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@Fluffy this is great! Very clever solution to minimize the footprint of the overall consolized version. Big thumbs up :)
 

XianXi

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I've got a first prototype of the breakout board:
IMG_20201223_195544_s.jpg


It attaches like this, and moves the signals to the bottom of the PCB.
IMG_20201223_195628_s.jpg

There seems to be a very slight bend in the PCB, probably from thermal expansion of the pins during soldering, and shrinking when it cooled... I could try a suitable spacer to prevent this.

Of course, as soon as production started I already made a new revision that includes a power LED... Also I decided to use slots for the JAMMA connector instead of holes, to cut down on solder required.

Just solder where the bend is first then the outside going in and it should flatten out.
 

Fluffy

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Just solder where the bend is first then the outside going in and it should flatten out.
Yeah, something like that could work. I may try some hot air as well.
JammaBreakout.jpg

For the new version I changed it to use slots, so you need less heat to solder it in place. I was originally not sure if slots like this cause extra production problems, so I used holes.

This includes an LED as well. The idea is that you bend it 180 degree through that hole, so you have it on the front side without sticking out too much.

I am waiting for some parts to prototype the rest.
 

NeoRobo

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Awesome! I was thinking about consolizing a PGM and want to design a new 3D printed shell for it to make it look more like a home console. This will work great for it!
 

nam9

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A/V connections... since there is plenty space across the back, could I suggest a Din-8 in addition to the MD2? MD2 is standard for Retrovision etc, but Din8 with passive components at the console end is a better option for Video quality...

Of course you populate the desired connection of your choice...
 

Fluffy

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Fluffy

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Pinout is X-RGB spec. Cable is passive.


xrgb_pinout-300x225.jpg
Cool, that matches what I copied from the minigun schematic. I may have to shuffle the connectors a bit so it looks neat, but the design isn't final anyway.
 
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