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PGM single game PCB assembly and troubleshooting

1)Pulled U8 and left U9 in and there was no noticeable difference in audio, music was still rad and voices/some effects remained garbled.

2)pulled U9 as well as U9 and audio was mostly just fart like noises. No solid music or effects really

3) I then put the old U8 into the U9 position while leaving the U8 position unpopulated: same result as in situation 1, this seems to rule out that I have a bad LS74257 in U8 or U9 positions?

4) U8 and U9 populated with switched chips from my starting point: same as situation 1, 3 and my starting point.

I'm scratching my head here. Maybe I've got a messed up PGM the only other game I have is some crummy fighter that I bought so that I could scope out the case. I thought everything played right with it but I could be wrong, I'm gonna pull it up on MAME and compare.

In this link are some images of my assembled boards
https://imgur.com/a/MfHqt5O

EDIT: damnit I'm pretty sure I have a bunk PGM some of the voices are all squeaky and weird in my copy of killing blade compared to the emulated version :thumbdown:
EDIT2: Pretty sure it was my dip switch settings on my PGM I guess they were all off and for some reason these things have an impact on audio? Everything sounds good after setting switches 2,3, and 4 to on :P
 
Last edited:
So everything is working? I'll update the troubleshooting guide with the dip switch information. Is DIP 4 required, or did you just enable it together with the others?
 
I'm pretty confident it was the state of my PGM, DIP 4 is indeed for freeplay but seems to have no effect when running this particular game. I'll go back and flip the switches a couple times when I get home and see if I can reproduce my former audio issues.

I played through this game last night though and everything checked out... dip switches were on (down) at that time
 
tl8662 received, pal burned and voilà!

IMG_0607.jpg

IMG_0606.jpg




ps: I used 2 plastic bolts from my "quadcopter" days to make sure there are no shorts. Works like a charm.
IMG_0608.jpg



Thanks a lot Fluffy :thumbsup: !
 
Well the last one is giving me a hard time:

  • check for solder bridges on PAL U5, the EPROM P1 and the resistor array
    • CHECKED and DOUBLED CHECKED
  • check that the P1 ROM contains valid data (verify in the EPROM programmer against the input data)
    • CHECKED ddp3_p1_dual.bin
  • if you're planning to run DoDonPachi, make sure you use an unencrypted version. There should be some "IGS PGM GAME SYSTEM" text near the start. (Low and high bytes are switched, so letters are swapped.)
    • like this? "GI SGP MLPTAOFMRG MASE DDDPJOLB . V 00 1 ?
  • Make sure the resistor array is installed the right way around. Pin 1 is marked with a dot.
    • CHECKED
  • make sure the 100 Ohm resistor is installed
    • CHECKED.
  • Verified ok but reburned anyway U5 and U6
  • Tried ddp u5 and basic u5 with JP1 on
still this screen aka non booting and my blast cycling, trying to auto adjust to it:

View attachment 24875

Ideas?! ?(
 
First thing to try is if you can plug in the EPROMs and PALs in one of your other prog boards. You should be able to mix prog and char boards - the game will boot, text and backgrounds should work but sprites will be garbled. That way you can see if the problem is on your prog board, your char board, or your EPROMs and PALs.
 
Fluffy said:
First thing to try is if you can plug in the EPROMs and PALs in one of your other prog boards. You should be able to mix prog and char boards - the game will boot, text and backgrounds should work but sprites will be garbled. That way you can see if the problem is on your prog board, your char board, or your EPROMs and PALs.
Click to expand...
Well thanks! :) that allowed me to see that it works with the other prog board:
IMG_0685.jpg


and then I figured out the error ... can you guess it ?!

IMG_0690.jpg

IMG_0689.jpg



I "reproduced" the error and yes, that screen is the result of the error.

All is good and this was a fun project! thanks again !! What's next?! :)
 
Mrhide said:
All is good and this was a fun project! thanks again !! What's next?! :)
Click to expand...
Most interesting platforms are already covered by multies... if I do another single it will most likely be combined with a homebrew project. I considered an MVS single, but I'd need to create CPLDs for sound interleaving or banking, and you can still get most interesting games as cartridges.
 
Fluffy said:
A new feature is the -b switch to install a BIOS file to the start of the ROM, and the game itself to 1MB+. This makes sense for DDP3 and the stand-alone PCB BIOS that GC8Tech found:
Click to expand...
Just assembling all the stuff to build a DP3 Dual Boot. In case anyone else is searching around, I think this is how you do it (or at least here's how I'm going to try, and I'll edit when it works!)

stand alone bios: PGM Diag/Test BIOS
pgm program files: Any PGM Conversion info out there?

ddpdojblkbl.zip: can't share the link but you should be able to find it. you want the non-merged version so it has all the files inside (md5 09352efbcd60713f38af7d47401535d5)

unpack the bios file to the same directory as your ddp zip and your pgm program files zip.

command:
python rom_gen.py -b "pgm_bios_single_pcb_vxxxJP.u42" "PGM Program Files.zip"
(this creates patched program rom files for all the games with the upgraded motherboard bios)

then command:
python rom_gen.py ddpdojblkbl.zip
(creates all the other roms)

then use all the files in the ddp_rg folder for a1/a2/a3/a4/b1/b2/t1/t2/m1, but for P1 use: ddp3_p1_dual_qb.bin

also use
PGM_RG_U5_QB.jed
PGM_RG_U6.jed
 
I just discovered button 4 on ketsui arrange! :huh:
it also appears that removing jumper 1 makes the game a *lot* more difficult.
 
Is there anybody who would be willing to burn both ESPgaluda and Ketsui for me? I got the boards from Fluffy, know how to solder, but have never ever burned roms. Don't even own a burner. I could send you the mouser/digikey order and after burning have it send to me whilst I pay for shipping + some extra for the service?
 
ekorz said:
Fluffy said:
A new feature is the -b switch to install a BIOS file to the start of the ROM, and the game itself to 1MB+. This makes sense for DDP3 and the stand-alone PCB BIOS that GC8Tech found:
Click to expand...
Just assembling all the stuff to build a DP3 Dual Boot. In case anyone else is searching around, I think this is how you do it (or at least here's how I'm going to try, and I'll edit when it works!)
stand alone bios: PGM Diag/Test BIOS
pgm program files: Any PGM Conversion info out there?

ddpdojblkbl.zip: can't share the link but you should be able to find it. you want the non-merged version so it has all the files inside (md5 09352efbcd60713f38af7d47401535d5)

unpack the bios file to the same directory as your ddp zip and your pgm program files zip.

command:
python rom_gen.py -b "pgm_bios_single_pcb_vxxxJP.u42" "PGM Program Files.zip"
(this creates patched program rom files for all the games with the upgraded motherboard bios)

then command:
python rom_gen.py ddpdojblkbl.zip
(creates all the other roms)

then use all the files in the ddp_rg folder for a1/a2/a3/a4/b1/b2/t1/t2/m1, but for P1 use: ddp3_p1_dual_qb.bin

also use
PGM_RG_U5_QB.jed
PGM_RG_U6.jed
Click to expand...
Is this a glitch free version containing both vanilla and bl ddp doj?
 
bytestorm said:
Is this a glitch free version containing both vanilla and bl ddp doj?
Click to expand...
I don’t think so, i think it’s just the version everyone has. But if we ever find a glitch free version i would think it would just be a program rom update.

Where’s the glitch, level 5 vanilla? I can try

I think vanilla only (decrypted) isn’t available, so I think this dual boot with glitch is the only way to play vanilla on these repros right now. Admittedly I’m behind on that huge thread so someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
 
Not at home, can someone give me the distance between pcb while install in the mobo. Looking to pick up some spacer
 
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