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For powering PR, you need a power supply that has a decent max continuous output. CBOX needs a better power supply, the Windy Supergun is capable of more but there is no adjustment pot for the 5v rail. I never measured the actual draw on mine but I'd guess it's about 60-70 watts (+5, +12 and -5v). So if your PSU isn't capable of a ~70 watts max continuous then you might need something better.
 
I solved the power supply issues by just getting a new SG, and using Meanwell Power Supply so that’s no longer a problem.

My Retrotink4K came in and low, and behold they already got a Primal Rage profile up and it looks gorgeous on my 4K TV. Needless to say I’m no longer having any issues with the board.
 

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I solved the power supply issues by just getting a new SG, and using Meanwell Power Supply so that’s no longer a problem.

My Retrotink4K came in and low, and behold they already got a Primal Rage profile up and it looks gorgeous on my 4K TV. Needless to say I’m no longer having any issues with the board.
Holy crap that is freaking BEAUTIFUL 😵🙌🏼
 
Okay, I got the sound working on my TV and everything working, but I am noticing some banding like artifacts.

Is there something on my board that needs to be replaced to stop the visual noise here or is it my cables? It only tends to happen when a sound plays like the characters jumping and landing. It’s nothing too terrible, but it’s annoying when it does happen since the picture is perfect when everything is not moving.
 

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Okay, I got the sound working on my TV and everything working, but I am noticing some banding like artifacts.

Is there something on my board that needs to be replaced to stop the visual noise here or is it my cables? It only tends to happen when a sound plays like the characters jumping and landing. It’s nothing too terrible, but it’s annoying when it does happen since the picture is perfect when everything is not moving.
Maybe, just a hunch you aren’t properly tied to earth …. Does your power supply have earth ground jumper’ed to your neutral?
 
Maybe, just a hunch you aren’t properly tied to earth …. Does your power supply have earth ground jumper’ed to your neutral?
Here’s how my power supply is set up.
New Edit: did a test through the service menu and it said Ram and Rom was good but this is what showed up under the MOB test.
 

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Add a jumper wire from FG to COM.
Okay, I’m using someone else case and wiring. How would I go about that with this set up? Do I replace the existing COM cable with something better or add another one ontop of it? I’m not very arcade literate this is my only arcade PCB lol. This is what the current case I’m using looks like.
 

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Leave everything as it is and find a short wire to add on top of the terminal. Go from one to the other and be triple sure the exposed tips are not touching any other terminal. Then you should be able to close it back up. If you use a little longer wire, you should have enough slack to work with it easier.
 
Leave everything as it is and find a short wire to add on top of the terminal. Go from one to the other and be triple sure the exposed tips are not touching any other terminal. Then you should be able to close it back up. If you use a little longer wire, you should have enough slack to work with it easier.
Ah, I see thanks. The knob to adjust the voltage from my power supply stopping working so I’m ordering a new one. So I’ll test this out when it comes in.
 
I just did a visual inspection of the board just in case, and I noticed the R152 resistor wasn’t connected all the way, so that also may be causing the issue. I’m going to an electronic store this Saturday to have someone soldier it back on because I wouldn’t be able to do it myself also I noticed this in the test menu one chip doesn’t seem to be green. Is that something I need to look at? I had someone look up in the Rage discord what chip it would be just incase. It should be one of the two in the last image.

The board is working and I would like to keep it that way lol.
 

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My 2on2 open ice showed a failed eprom but there was no obvious issue. I swapped it out.

2on2 had socketed roms. Those roms appear to not be socketed. That's more difficult if you are not comfortable soldering.

You may want to have that ROM removed and a socket installed in its place.

Then you can socket the ROM and keep using until you replace.
 
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My 2on2 open ice showed a failed eprom but there was no obvious issue. I swapped it out.

2on2 had socketed roms. Those roms appear to not be socketed. That's more difficult if you are not comfortable soldering.

You may want to have that ROM removed and a socket installed in its place.

Then you can socket the ROM and keep using until you replace.
Okay, I’m gonna get that resistor fixed first, and see if that fixes the issue and if I get that error message again after I boot the service menu back up.

When I take the board to this place Saturday for the resistor I’ll also have them look to see if the chip looks damaged, and hopefully they’ll have some equipment to check it to see if it’s still good.
 
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