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RC de Go! Harness

KaPH33n

KaPH33n

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A friend asked me to replicate some harness for him. Here are my notes in case someone else needs to do this.

0lsY9_e78JWIN6K8pP0N2M33JVcXA7HcxpGDYvAc0FWb-XLZkT.png


4 connectors
4 conductors
All wire is 22 AWG stranded
All connections are direct 1:1
Overall Length: 32”

Diagram:

Code: 
V1.1 <-----RED--------> Z.1
V1.2 <---\ 
          \WHITE\   
                 \----> A.2
V2.1 <-----YELLOW-----> A.3
V2.2 <-----BLACK/W----> A.10

Pinouts:

V1 (White): JST SMP-02V-NC
  1. Red
  2. White

V2 (Black): JST SMP-02V-BC
  1. Yellow
  2. Black/White

A (White): Kyocera 608263310815000
  1. NC
  2. White
  3. Yellow
  4. NC
  5. NC
  6. NC
  7. NC
  8. NC
  9. NC
  10. Black/White

Z (White): JST H4P-SHF-AA
  1. Red
  2. NC
  3. NC
  4. NC
 
Any leads on sourcing the RC controllers?
Do you think an actual RC controller be converted??
 
nam9 said:
Any leads on sourcing the RC controllers?
Do you think an actual RC controller be converted??
Click to expand...
I have done that. As KaPH33n said, it is just two pots that are hooked up. I also used a button on the remote as the start button.
 
I was trying to wire up a little board for the controller that would allow one to use a regular RC controller and receiver: PT01B.
From what I gather it would just be wiring up to the correct locations on the board and then probably tuning the controller trims to centre the output voltage replacing the function of the pots.
Unfortunately my G-NET board does not run RC-de-go so I never was able to test it, https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/go-by-rc-rc-de-go-booting.14964/

bonus: if this works it would be nice to incorporate with the sound-out board from @everten
 
Thanks for posting that pic @neokoen . I wasn't sure where the connectors went on the board, as I didn't have those in hand. Now I see why the connections to the analog (A) and the power (Z) are slightly different lengths. The original harness gives a little more length for the Z to get to the middle of the pcb.
 
Anyone have photos of the inside of an original RC de Go controller? Is there any circuitry or is it wired direct from G-Net headers to the controller potentiometers? Also looking for scans of the official manual if anyone has a link.

I spent some time today testing a real RC controller on the G-Net. I picked up a Futaba FP-T2PB since it was cheap. I pulled the main board out of the controller and pretty much just left the trigger and wheel potentiometers inside. The pots both measured around 1K ohm - no idea if this is what the original controllers have but if someone who has one can test please let me know.


G-Net Pinout
----------------
Analog Connector CN651
Pin 2 = Wheel input (White wire on original harness)
Pin 3 = Trigger input (Yellow wire on original harness, green in my photo)
Pin 10 = GND (Black wire on original harness)

JST Connector (4 Pin) on middle board:
Pin 1 = 5V (Red wire on original harness)


Futaba Wiring
-----------------
I wired the controller as follows:

Wheel Pot Pin 1 > JST Pin 1 (5V)
Wheel Pot Pin 2 > Analog Connector Pin 2 (Wheel input)
Wheel Pot Pin 3 > Analog Connector Pin 10 (GND)
Trigger Pot Pin 1 > Analog Connector Pin 10 (GND)
Trigger Pot Pin 2 > Analog Connector Pin 3 (Trigger input)
Trigger Pot Pin 2 > ST Pin 1 (5V)


The game boots to a calibration screen and the controller appears to calibrate just fine. I had the Japan rom and didn't understand the menus, but I think this it what is happening; Step 1 - release trigger and wheel so they are in their zero position, press Start. Step 2 - rotate the wheel and pull/push the trigger to their maximum and minimum positions, press Start. Step 3 - I think this is just a confirmation screen to test the calibration, press Start.

I played a few courses and it was working fine. I did get some drift issues once or twice a few turns but it goes away on the next turn of the wheel. I will have to test a bit more and make a proper wire harness once finalized.

1651533414129.png
1651533317658.png
 
Man, this looks like a nice project for @XeD and @Mirko to do replica controllers for these??

But I do like the approach of using the wireless option @neokoen is pointing out.

Keeping an eye on this to see where it goes.
 
Last edited:
I have a manual or two (somewhere). US and JP. IIRC I had them scanned and uploaded long long ago.
 

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Look interesting. If there is a good model of it I'm sure we can print and paint something.
 
everten said:
Anyone have photos of the inside of an original RC de Go controller?
Click to expand...
you should have asked me yesterday, I would have let you borrow one.
everten said:
looks like it's direct like I thought. 5K ohm pots though, maybe the calibration is all that's needed to use the 1K.
Click to expand...
So long as it's being wired as a voltage divider the value shouldn't really matter. What would make a bigger differences is the amount of rotation lock to lock, but eve that should work itself out in the calibration.
 
Hi all, have done some testing on the above, and would like to report my results 🙂

Picked up a cheap Tamiya TTU-03 controller with receiver, planning to be able to use it both wireless, and wired to the pcb, in case I don't feel like digging up 8 AA batteries.

Using it WIRED works great! Indeed pot resistor value doesn't matter, this uses another value again, but works perfectly after calibration.
Reported drift issues I didn't get, sounds more like a dirty pot? Just very tight controls. Recommend.

I've also tested the WIRELESS option using the pcb mentioned by @neokoen , can report it works, but it's not great.
First I can sense a little delay, although not much. But more important - Input is detected at a lower resolution, less frames per second, guess you understand what I mean. This makes racing harder, as controls are less tight. It's very noticable as well in the name input screen, which is pretty much impossible as every knob turn results in a too big movement on screen, making it constantly skip a letter.

Must say I have zero experience with RC car racing, so I'm not sure if the converter board is the issue, or if wireless controls just aren't as tight as arcade controls by nature.
If anyone knows more on this topic, please do respond!

Will post again if I ever find a solution, but don't expect so. Think I'll just keep my controller hard wired.
 
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